how to turbo an n/a

the heads are different, n/a is closed chambered while turbo is open chambered. Exhaust valves are "supposedly" different with the turbo ones being hardened but when I was swapping valves over from my cracked turbo head to my n/a head I couldn't tell any difference between the two. Not in "clanking" sound nor in metal coloring. valve springs on the turbo head are of slightly higher rate to accomodate the turbo camshaft which is also different and the v.springs are wound oppositely from the n/a springs.

yes, I'm running an n/a head on my turbo short block. I did a "hick method" cc test in the combustion chambers with 80w gear oil and with the n/a head my c/r is only about 8-9 cc's smaller than full turbo setup. I can live with it.

If you use your n/a engine block for the swap you'll need to tap the oil pan for the turbo return.

you have to tap your oil pan for the return because on a turbo block there's a boss in the block itself for the return...n/a engines lack this, they have a b-off for the WATER return line but not the oil return...only way is to tap the oil pan.

also take the turbo engine's fuel rail mainly to get the fuel pressure regulator and swap the fpr onto the n/a fuel rail as the fuel damper comes on the rails mostly for the n/a cars.

make sure you get an LA or LB series ecu too, the older ones don't support the ACT sensor. You'll need to "T" an oil feed line where the oil pressure sender is also so that you can actually feed the turbo. you don't "need" water lines, they just help extend the life of the turbo.

I just got it running. It's got a while before it's on the road as I've got a lot left to do drivetrain wise, as well as interior and paintwork wise.

These are just mainly the observations I made while doing the swap between the 2 cars and the other parts cars I have.