Hp

Stinger said:

Esslinger doesn't offer a cast iron head

The D port street head is 1500 bucks with everything but a cam (and followers I believe).

Stinger

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Its been awhile I never looked through there catalog either So I didn't know they only made aliminum head(s). I just emailed esslinger and asked for a decent cast iron head figuring it would be something cheap and better than stock until I could aford a better set up. I told them just a simple roller on it like a ranger also and ready to bolt on and they sent a quote of 1900.00 shipped.

Anlushac11 said:

Dude $1900 for a cast iron head? You should be screaming "

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I still got the quote saved from Esslinger, but I'm not on my P.C . I will try and post word for word if I have some more time later on today.

Anlushac11, where can i find the Megasquirt? Or the SDS?

tiny4lx said:

Anlushac11, where can i find the Megasquirt? Or the SDS?

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The info is here. Basically you sign up to a Yahoo group for a group buy and then you pay and someone sends you the kit which you have to selder together and assemble. I think they also have a source for assembled ones but it costs about $100 more. They also have a parts list so that you can buy the parts yourself if you want but the group buy is cheaper.

The MAP sensor will read up to 20lbs of boost. You can use a Fiero MAP sensor to be able to read up to 30lbs of boost but you need to compile your own code for that, its not supported by the website. I know of about 3 people who said they are working on hteir own code for the Fiero MAP sensor.

http://bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html


I have a friend who is even more of a computer geek than me whos eyes glaze over and starts drooling at the thought of putting this together.

I have another friend who is a journeyman electrician who looked at the wiring and who is experienced at swapping wiring harnesses and computer harnesses on Fox body Mustangs and he said "No Problem, If we have all the parts it will take a couple of hours"

The reason I am interested in the Megasquirt is the price is good, it does not require a VAM, it is programmable with a laptop or palm pilot, it can be setup for any EFI system. It uses O2 sensor, Manifold absolute pressure sensor, Manifold air temperature sensor, throttle position sensor, and coolant sensor to adjust fuel accordingly. Their is a software program where you enter more engine paramaters than I am even familiar with and then it comes back and gives you the recommended settings to enter into the computer so you can start the car and get it running then you can have one person drive it while you sit in can and fine tune the settings. The only reason you would want this is to run larger injectors than normally available, or a large turbo, intercooler, and large injectors.

When the 2.3L turbo that Tiny Avenger built hit 412rwhp and 423lbs ft of torque he was using a SDS computer and 96 lb/hr injectors, a Spearco intercooler, and a t3/hybrid turbo, and 3" exhaust. Im looking for 20lbs boost, 45lb hr injectors and 80mm throttle body and 80mm mass air. Only limiting factor right now is money, as in I have none.

That is some cool ass sh**. Thanks for all the info.

well as funny as it may be about 3 months ago it happend to me same thing and it was the starter. The dang thang was stuck in prestart position[the gear wouldnt move to make contact with the fly wheel]. Sounds funny but it was stuck, i even tried to pry it. Good luck!

kingjhill105 said:

I tried like you said to do with recharging my battery, and that didn't work it still just clicks, when you turn the key over. I'll check the starter relay, and I might just get a new battery for it. Any other suggestions as too wat it can be are welcome.

John

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Check about replacing the negative ground cable. I was pulling my hair out and replaced the solenoid twice and had a new battery and new starter and still wouldnt start. Turned out to be a bad negative battery cable.