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I cannot pull DTC's from 1991 2.3 Vert

  • Thread starter Thread starter straws
  • Start date Start date Jun 2, 2008
S

straws

New Member
Dec 29, 2005
21
0
1
Jun 2, 2008
#1
  • Jun 2, 2008
  • #1
Hello, I am new here, and i just bought a 1991 2.3L Mustang Convertible. I already have a 1993 2.3 Convertible, so I bought another for my kid.

The problem is the car was sitting for a few years. A guy bought it and rebuilt the tranny, new radiator & battery. I get it and it ran rough, engine light, and tach jumping around.

My other 1993 had the same symptoms and I pulled the codes and the ignition module was bad. I replaced this 1991's module, and nothing got better except the idle.

I have a snap on scanner with the correct software. I can read the sensors as live data, but I cannot get it to run the self tests to give me the codes. The scanner works. Does anyone have a suggestion what to check to see why the scanner is not reading?

thanks
 

94GTHO

Member
Jul 21, 2005
200
0
17
Richmond, Va
Jun 2, 2008
#2
  • Jun 2, 2008
  • #2
if I were you it wouldnt be a bad idea to do a basic tune up on the car. New plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. Change all the filters and such. Wouldnt hurt anything to change it all.
 
R

RustBucket

New Member
Jun 8, 2003
585
0
0
Buford, GA
Jun 2, 2008
#3
  • Jun 2, 2008
  • #3
I doubt you're doing anything wrong, but here's a page of info that may prove useful. Try pulling KOEO codes using the MIL light and see if that works. I don't know this for fact first-hand, but I believe I've run across posts by folks with the same problem that ended up with a bad ECU.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html
 
S

straws

New Member
Dec 29, 2005
21
0
1
Jun 5, 2008
#4
  • Jun 5, 2008
  • #4
whoever reminded me of the basics, kudos to you.

I did get to pull the codes based on the information linked to a ranger website. Thanks.

I had EGR codes, which once I cleaned the egr and pulled the stuck valve open with a vacuum pump the code did not reappear. However...

Today I managed to pull the plugs (with only damaging one wire). Each plug was so worn (75 thousandths gap). SO I performed a bandaid regap and clean to diagnose the performance. Amazing difference the basics make. The driver side plugs are a ****** to get to when the wires are stuck on.

So far so good.

However, I have a new, and doubly tested at two locations, ignition module. And the tach is still reading flaky. Any other suggestions?
 

cjones

Founding Member
Jul 20, 2002
1,561
0
37
Avondale, AZ
Jun 6, 2008
#5
  • Jun 6, 2008
  • #5
how many times in a row did they test the ignition module?? sometimes needs to be tested 5 or 6 times.

i would do as 94gtho stated and Replace the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. if you still have a problem, then do further diagnostics.

for the jumpy tach...do a wiggle test on the tach wire Pin# 12 T/Y. then check the PIP.
 
S

straws

New Member
Dec 29, 2005
21
0
1
Jun 16, 2008
#6
  • Jun 16, 2008
  • #6
Well autojoke, or I mean autozone will only do the test a couple times...that is since they have cut their staffing to a manager and one employee. The line of people has not changed for hepl at their store, but their service sure has declined.
My 1993 vert took about 8 times to show the fault, but this time they would not test more than 4 times.


Still the car is running better, and the engine light will reappear, just when my daughter is driving it. I need to pull itback t oread the codes again.
 
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