I have some detailing questions...Please help.

Try www.griotsgarage.com

Meguiars web site has a good piece on using a buffer.

ineedacobra said:

I am getting ready to buy a Porter Cable Dual Action Buffer/Polisher and have a few questions. I have searched the forums and found a bunch of useful info, but I have a couple of specific questions left.

First of all, what kinds of pads and tools do I need to operate the buffer to the best of its ability and where can I find the pads/tools at the best price.

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I actually like the pads from Classic Motoring Accessories.

I usually use the yellow cutting pad for more serious swirls and other defects combined with #83.

I will then follow up with #9 and the white polishing pad to remove any possible hazing from #83.

I usually apply glazes and waxes by hand but, if you wanted to do it by machine you could use the grey finishing pad.

My car's finish has some water spot etching into the finish and quite a few swirl marks, so I plan on going over the entire car with Megs #83. This will not hurt anything will it? I think the eching/water spots are too bad for Megs #9.

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I usually just use #83 on spots that are beyond the capabilities of #9. I follow the principle of using the least abrasive product to get the job done. If the whole car doesn't need #83 than don't go over the whole car with it.

Also, I plan to use Megs #7 and #26 to finish the jobs, but what, if anything should I use before or between these applications. I have used a clay bar on parts of my car before, and I didn't see any improvement, so I would rather not go over the entire car during my detail process, unless it would be greatly beneficial.

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If you want to clay do it before you start with #9 or #83 preferably after washing the car.

Just remember with #7 and #26 keep the coats thin. I usually apply to the entire car and then go back and start removing. With #7 I usually do 2 layers, not for any layering effect but rather to ensure coverage. The same goes for #26. I usually leave an hour or so in between layers.

Also, which of these products can/should be applied with the Porter Cable? The more I can do with the machine would save me much needed time.

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You can apply all of them with the PC. As I said though I usually just do surface prep with the PC. It is just a matter of personal preference.

Which pads should be used with which products and at what speed should I have the Porter Cable set on?

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I would start off with the CMA yellow cutting pad with DACP on the more serious defects. Once you are satisified then move on the the white polishing pad with #9 and go over the entire surface. You can finally use the grey finishing pad with #7 and #26 although you do want to avoid using a single pad for two different products. Either wash the pad after using #7 before going on to #26 or get two pads.

Thanks for the help in advance!!!

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Hope all that makes sense, feel free to ask as many questions as need be as I am sure I either glossed over some of it or missed something completely as it is late and I am going to bed now

ineedacobra said:

Thanks a ton for you help...but one more quick question...should the buffer be set on full speed when applying all the products?

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For surface prep with #83 and #9 start off at about 4.5. If you find that after a few passes at 4.5 the defect is not coming out than try another pass or two at 5.5. Same principle here, start off less agressive and work your way up. 4.5 is a good starting point though and only crank it up if you need to.

For applying glazes like #7 or waxes like #26 I would put it at around 3-3.5. They key is to get a nice "even" layer and you don't have to put it on thick. It is much better to do 2 thin layers rather than 1 thick one.

I usually put them in a bucket with a mixture of water and dawn or whatever dishwashing liquid you have, let them sit in the bucket for a while then rinse them out really well and sit them out to air dry. This is the safest method to keep the pads lasting the longest. You may be able to get away with drying the pads in the dryer on low but, I would only do that if you need it more quickly than letting it air dry.