I know i ask to many questions. I WANT TO BE COLD

Well I suppose you could start by putting a T-stat back into the car. a 180* should do nicely unless you have a custom tune to allow the EEC to go to closed loop at a temp lower than 160*.

Some say that slowing the flow of water throug hte radiator helps it to cool more. I don't susbscribe to that line of thinking considering that heat exchangers are more efficient when the heat range of the fluid inside of them is hotter.

What I mean is: I do agree that faster flowing water in a radiator will exit the radiator at a higher temp than water moving more slowly but that same water will see the radiator a lot more often and the final result would be a cooler over-all temp. Since the heat of the block is considerably hotter than the watter passing over it, then that slightly warmer radiator exit water is amll pennance vs. the ability of the radiator to remove that heat in ambiant air.

The problem with running too cool though, is your EEC. If you manage to keep it below 160* when it's running then you'll end up in open loop all the time. Other associated problems include the potential for oil sludging and problems with oil viscosity when it's not being heated to the tempuratures it was designed for.

If however, you INSIST... you could always install a trasmission cooler, and oil cooler, and even an additional heat exchanger for your engine coolant to share the load for your radiator.


Would I do it? Hell no.... A good, efficient cooling system is one thing. Monkeying around with reducing over all engine temps below intended limits is something else all together.

Install a 180* t-stat then drive the car until it's heat soaked. Measure the tmep of your coolant. If it hovers within a reasonable range that is near 180* then you're done.

If it's considerably higher than that, you may want to look into the cause.

BK_CAULEY said:

learn something new everyday. so i should put the t-stat back in then what?

Click to expand...

put it in and then i would leave it like that for a bit...see how it acts.

edit...daggar beat me to it.

I would just go with a 160 for my car since it's carbed (180 in your case to keep the EEC happy) and get an engine oil cooler. That plus a good 3 core radiator and you should be set.

I don't think that a 3 core is necessary. A good aluminum, welded (no epoxy), two core should have more cooling capacity than what you require. Many are said to have better cooling capabilities than FMS's 3 core.

and

Remove your A/C if you don't use it. That A/C radiator slows the airflow down to the main radiator bigtime.

Also use water wetter or go like 70% water and 30% coolant for better cooling.

Never go lower than a 180deg on a fuel injected car. You will make less power unles you have a custom tune.

Get a nice aftermarket radiator and you should be set.

Ceramic coated headers if you dont already have them would improve heat on the engine as well...

Keith, for now you need to get a real gauge. You can come kick me in the crotch if that gauge is truely accurate (nearly all OEM gauges, including the fox gauges, have hysteresis built into them. Otherwise new-car owners see a gauge move and go to the dealership to ask what's wrong. The gauges only reflect large changes).

Andy and I share the t-stat thinking (it is a closed-loop after all, and we're talkin about modern radiators).

If you get a stat (and I'd get one - no car should need to run sans a stat), get one that's balanced (Mr Gasket is what I use). This will drop your temps across the board vs a parts-store POS stat.


Good luck.
Good luck.

everyone is right about putting a t-stat back in it and getting a better radiator. one thing that was not mentioned was engine wear due to lack of heat allowed to build up. ive seen studies were they ran engines at 150-160 degrees and cylinder wall wear was dramatically increased as opposed to running between 185-210. and on the other side of the spectrum cylinder wall wear increases drastically if you get over 220.

Yeah the T-stat will help, my Cobra ran 215-220 without one (using Autometer gauge) and now with a 180 it stays at 180 all the time no matter what the load.