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I Melted another clutch cable help!

  • Thread starter Thread starter bdazzgt
  • Start date Start date Feb 1, 2012

bdazzgt

I had to jerk off the cable to get it to stop.
Dec 27, 2005
328
0
16
Springfield MO
Feb 1, 2012
#1
  • Feb 1, 2012
  • #1
So in November my adjustable clutch cable of 5 years broke at the plastic piece at the firewall, I bought another cable from LRS put it on no problem then it started binding up at the bellhousing. When I pressed in the clutch it would form a S shape at the bell housing. So I searched the forums and realized that i had the cable routed wrong. It was routed next to the steering arm under the motor mount above the k-member. I put the new one on, it worked flawlessly. I routed it under the motor mount above the steering rack which is apparently the OEM way of running it. I had bolted the bracket to the frame rail. So im driving today and the clutch pedal just falls to the floor like the cable came loose. I get out and it has melted all the way through except the steel cable. So i have to have it towed home again.... My question is that i have equal length shorty headers. What are my options, the cable was about 1-1.5'' away from the header tube #2 on driver side but if i unbolt the cable its very close to tube #1. What are my options? I dont mind buying heat wrap but this seems as if there should be a different way to fix the problem. Thanks guys
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
14,679
424
154
Boca Raton, Florida
Feb 1, 2012
#2
  • Feb 1, 2012
  • #2
This is an OEM replacement cable or some aftermarket cable? I melted an aftermarket cable after a week, I then installed an OEM cable bought from Ford and it was perfect for 10+ years. Go figure.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
5,129
1,666
204
Maryland
Feb 1, 2012
#3
  • Feb 1, 2012
  • #3
OEM cables ONLY!
 

Jason 302

10 Year Member
Aug 9, 2003
685
71
68
Newark, Ohio
Feb 1, 2012
#4
  • Feb 1, 2012
  • #4
I'll be looking into these if/when my original stocker ever gives up....

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/s...50_160&zenid=55ecef8ca21720b1bdcf63b5b6d27546

Clutch cable for Mustang fitted with a firewall adjuster and aluminum quadrant
  • Made in America for MM by the original Ford OEM vendor.
  • This is not the same clutch cable sold by FRPP.
  • All FRPP clutch cables have a completely different, non-OEM design and construction.
  • FRPP clutch cables are made in Taiwan.
  • Requires a firewall adjuster. Will not fit without a firewall adjuster.
This item:
One Mustang clutch cable, ready for use with a firewall adjuster.

Benefits
  • Provides the same smooth and low-effort pedal motion as the original stock clutch cable did when your Mustang was brand new.
  • Maintains low-friction operation even with heavy clutch loads.
  • Ready for fitment to a firewall adjuster; no need for the installer to modify the end of the housing.
  • Available in a money-saving package with a quadrant and firewall adjuster
  • Longer than many of the stock Mustang cable assemblies, allowing it to be routed away from the exhaust.
Unlike offshore-sourced clutch cables:
  • Tough OEM cable housing does not easily collapse.
  • Inner cable glides effortlessly inside a low-friction Teflon sheath.
  • Multi-layer outer housing provides greater heat resistance.
  • Strong OEM inner steel cable is more stretch resistant.
Product Features
  • OEM design and construction: That's why it works better.
  • OEM design and construction: That's why it lasts longer.
  • Multi-layered OEM housing, unlike all other Mustang clutch cables, from both the aftermarket and FRPP.
  • Steel-strands have a low-angle spiral and secondary binding, providing greatest longitudinal strength, and very high resistance to collapse.
  • Low-friction Teflon inner sheath, unlike other clutch cables.
  • Designed for easy installation with a firewall clutch adjuster.
Notes
  • Requires a firewall adjuster. Cannot be installed on a Mustang that does not have a firewall adjuster.
  • See the photo below for construction details: OEM cable is on the bottom, aftermarket cable on the top.
  • Click the button below for more information.
 

bdazzgt

I had to jerk off the cable to get it to stop.
Dec 27, 2005
328
0
16
Springfield MO
Feb 1, 2012
#5
  • Feb 1, 2012
  • #5
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...djustable-Clutch-Cable-Also-Fits-94-04-38L-V6
Thats what i bought because i was on a budget. I know OEM is better but there is a reason this one melted correct?
 

jdb3rd

Member
Apr 28, 2005
166
3
19
edgewater MD
Feb 2, 2012
#6
  • Feb 2, 2012
  • #6
I had the same problem I have long tubes on my car and after 2 clutch cables in a little over a year and I took some heat shield tape and wrapped the clutch cable from the bracket on the framerail to the bellhousing. I dont know if it's the combo of the t-56 and long tubes combined but it didnt matter how I routed the cable it was always touching something.
 

jdb3rd

Member
Apr 28, 2005
166
3
19
edgewater MD
Feb 2, 2012
#7
  • Feb 2, 2012
  • #7
Although I will add that next time I have the motor out or anything I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go with the hydraulic conversion
 

ID89GT

10 Year Member
May 26, 2008
1,659
18
49
Spokane Valley, WA
Feb 2, 2012
#8
  • Feb 2, 2012
  • #8
Just looked at that MM clutch package with the firewall adjuster and quadrant. It says 82-04, anyone know why it won't work on 79-81? I have a t5 out of a newer v8 Mustang in my car so just wondering if its because the trans was different back then since it didn't have the 302 yet, or if there is something I don't know about
 

bdazzgt

I had to jerk off the cable to get it to stop.
Dec 27, 2005
328
0
16
Springfield MO
Feb 4, 2012
#9
  • Feb 4, 2012
  • #9
ID89GT said:
Just looked at that MM clutch package with the firewall adjuster and quadrant. It says 82-04, anyone know why it won't work on 79-81? I have a t5 out of a newer v8 Mustang in my car so just wondering if its because the trans was different back then since it didn't have the 302 yet, or if there is something I don't know about
Click to expand...
It should bolt up fine. If the motor is the late model motor and tranny, the only thing i wonder would be the clutch quadrant under the dash, but i don't know. My main question is the OEM cable did not have the heat wrap, so why should the new cable but then again stock didnt have equal length shorties. is there a different way to route the cable away from the header. It melted above the bracket by the header not down by the bellhousing
 

ID89GT

10 Year Member
May 26, 2008
1,659
18
49
Spokane Valley, WA
Feb 4, 2012
#10
  • Feb 4, 2012
  • #10
Ya my guess is because 82 was the first year of the 302. I have a 351w in it now so it should work i would imagine
 
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