I need direction to 302->C4 mating manuals or instructions

[Jon350]

So I've disassembled the top half of my 302 and am planning on cherry-picking it out of the engine bay as soon as I can.
My mustang's a 5.0 based block mated to a C-4 transmission in a '65 fastback. Can anyone direct me to a discussion, instructions, or directions on how to properly take apart and re-assemble these two main pieces? I have a haynes manual and another I can't remember the name of. I will look through them tonight, but I was wondering if there are any better instructions or perhaps books I can get from say, Barnes and Noble, or something.

 

[65fastbackresto]

Jon350

This is easy job, you dont need a manual, trust me I just did it and it was easy, and I`m no mechanic.

Unbolt torque convertor from flywheel, 4 bolts. Turn the crank from up front with breaker bar to turn the convertor where you can get to the bolts.

Take lose bellhousing bolts to block, either 5 or 6 bolts depending on year.

Take lose kick down cable running from firewall to tranny.

Sounds like your new like me, mark all your wires where they went and it`ll be easier to put back together later.

Its all real obvious, just jump on it and get your hands dirty, it aint that bad to figure out.

 

[D.Hearne]

In reassembly, make DAMN sure the torque converter is seated all the way into the front pump. When it is, the front face will be well inside the bellhousing. If it's not seated and you try to force the bell onto the engine you'll break the pump gear engaged by the converter. It helps greatly to take four long small block head bolts, cut the heads off, chamfer ther cut ends and use these as guide studs to align the transmission bell holes to the engine. Screw the studs into two bell bolt holes per side, slip the trans onto the engine, screw in two bell bolts, then remove the studs and replace with the other 4 bolts. Also, you'll need to eyeball the torque converter studs to line them up with the corrosponding holes in the flexplate, make sure too, to align the converter drain plug with one of the two holes in the flexplate as well. The converter is attached to the flexplate with studs and nuts, no bolts here.

 

[Rusty67]

Since you said you are hooking this thing up to a 5.0 block let me just say one thing that other people might not. You need a different flex plate. The stock c4 flex plate had a different imballance and will cause your motor to shake itself apart. I have a spare flex plate for this very application that has about 200 miles on it, send me a PM if you are interested. If you want to save some money you can take your c4 flex plate to a competent machinist and have them reballance it to a 50oz imballance. If you do this then you can use your stock flex plate on the new 5.0 motor.

 

[65fastbackresto]

Rusty

Around what year did the 302`s change from 28 oz to 50 oz? Any idea? I`m going thru the same thing, but my block is about a 1976 model, with a 2 piece rear main seal.

 

[Rusty67]

I BELIEVE it was 1982. Your motor is a 28oz.

 

[65fastbackresto]

Cool

I did a little poking around on Autozones website, looking for 302`s with 2 piece rear mains. The last production run for 2 piece rear mains was November of 82, which I assume means everything with 2 piece is 28 oz.

Prob stupid question, my harmonic balancer AND flexplate will be 28 right?

 

[Rusty67]

I did a little poking around on Autozones website, looking for 302`s with 2 piece rear mains. The last production run for 2 piece rear mains was November of 82, which I assume means everything with 2 piece is 28 oz.

Prob stupid question, my harmonic balancer AND flexplate will be 28 right?

Don't be affraid to ask a stupid question.

Yes, both of them need to be matched.

 

[D.Hearne]

I'm not 100% on this, but I don't think you can rebalance a 28oz wheel to 50. You'd have to add weight & that adds cost. Simple to do it the other way around, all that's needed is to remove weight. 50 oz-157 tooth flexplates can be had new for $50.

 

[Rusty67]

I'm not 100% on this, but I don't think you can rebalance a 28oz wheel to 50. You'd have to add weight & that adds cost. Simple to do it the other way around, all that's needed is to remove weight. 50 oz-157 tooth flexplates can be had new for $50.

It can be done, people add a counter wieght to the flex plate. You are right tho, it is easier to reballance the 50oz one down, just gota get the right size 50oz flexplate.

 

[65fastbackresto]

Back to this guys original question

about wanting books showing you how to do it. Get the original shop manual for the 65 models, its very informative, has helped me on numerous occasions.
I got mine from Mustang Depot, bout $50 bucks.

 

[Z06killinSBF]

They sell a Ford Automatic book from Hayes at like Autozone or where ever you shop. Pick that up. It has troubleshooting and adjusting instructions in it the other more expensive manuals don't. Take your time and have an extra hand. You dont want to mess it up like me. I tried to do a tranny swap by myself with a brand new Performance Auto C4 ($1K) and have to take it back out for something is grinding. Keep it fun to work on and you'll enjoy your car more.

 

[Jon350]

lol... First off I want to apologize for calling the manual a "Haynes", I have been dealing with my honda S2000 for way too long and forgot the name, oops.

At any rate, I want to thank you guys for your two cents. Just to to clear up some misconceptions, this is my situation in a little more detail:

-I'm not necessarily new to this (I've rebuilt every major system on the car), BUT this is the first time I am attempting to pull the engine.
-I've been running my 5.0 / C-4 combination in the fastback for 60K miles so I have all the engine/trans mating parts (but thanx for the foresight).

-***Most importantly, I'm planning on excising the engine by itself and leaving the tranny in the car. Does this create any complications? In other words, is this a preffered engine hoisting scenario, an inconvenient task, or is it just a mtter of what needs to be repaired?

I'd greatly appreciate any and all of your responses! Thanx guys...

 

[Big_B]

lol... First off I want to apologize for calling the manual a "Haynes", I have been dealing with my honda S2000 for way too long and forgot the name, oops.

At any rate, I want to thank you guys for your two cents. Just to to clear up some misconceptions, this is my situation in a little more detail:

-I'm not necessarily new to this (I've rebuilt every major system on the car), BUT this is the first time I am attempting to pull the engine.
-I've been running my 5.0 / C-4 combination in the fastback for 60K miles so I have all the engine/trans mating parts (but thanx for the foresight).

-***Most importantly, I'm planning on excising the engine by itself and leaving the tranny in the car. Does this create any complications? In other words, is this a preffered engine hoisting scenario, an inconvenient task, or is it just a mtter of what needs to be repaired?

I'd greatly appreciate any and all of your responses! Thanx guys...

Not too dredge up a two week old post or nothin, but looks like I am going to be pulling my 289/c4 out. Along the lines of his last questions, is it easier to just pull the engine, rather than the engine/tranny combo? Also how much over head clearance is needed with a standard cherry picker? I am going to try and pick up that leveling bar too.

Thanks!

 

[Rusty67]

Not too dredge up a two week old post or nothin, but looks like I am going to be pulling my 289/c4 out. Along the lines of his last questions, is it easier to just pull the engine, rather than the engine/tranny combo? Also how much over head clearance is needed with a standard cherry picker? I am going to try and pick up that leveling bar too.

Thanks!

Do it outside if you can... I personally say that pulling them as a unit is better/easier but there are those that disagree.