I need guys that know head porting to have a look. (DUW!)

[reddy351]

Here are some pics of the GT40 (not "P") heads that I have been working on. What do you guys think of the progress? Is there anything that you can see that I am missing? The tapered areas below the valve are actually a lot more rounded than they look. Very tapered and smooth. I have really only opened up the bowls on the exhausts and really haven't done more than taper the valve bosses on the intakes. Should I hog out the ports, themselves? Or just match them to the gasket, as I have done? I've done the best I can to smooth the transition from a round valve to a square port. Opinions?

I remember a post a while back from someone who said that they would like to port heads on a fee basis. To be honest, I couldn't CHARGE enough to make it worth it to me. I have about 25, or so, hours in what you see. (Of course, I'm just using a Black and Decker hand drill with carbide burs to cut the iron.) I enjoy doing this kind of stuff for myself, though. Very rewarding.

PS--These heads are from an Explorer. How much needs to planed from the head to yield about 9.5/1 compression ratio on a stock 94 GT block?

 

[reddy351]

Anyone?

Bueller?

Bueller?

 

[95Vert]

Sorry bro, i don't know much about porting, BUT I do know that the first pic looks likes something I won't say. Very sick!!! lol

 

[blksn955.o]

here are some pics of my thumper ported heads for ref.

I kinda wish I had taken out a valve to get some of the bowl area. The intake runners are ported to the 1250 gasket and ported like 1 1/2 -2in into the runner other than blending the pushrod "bump" the rest is bowl work...the exh. on the other hand is as far as I can tell about as done up as one would think of doing .

 

[reddy351]

Are those regular Cobra style GT40's or GT40P's?

 

[blksn955.o]

gt40's off a 95 cobra so non P's.

 

[reddy351]

I was asking because the ports are oval shape like the "P" heads. Maybe that's where the P's make up the extra ground on the non-P's.

This is funny. It started out as a simple "gasket match" port job. Now I have all this and I just started on the Explorer lower, tonight. 2 hours=2 ports (6 hours to go! Woo-hoo!) but, I'm really happy with them.

 

[blksn955.o]

The P's make up most of the power over the reg. gt40's in the smaller exh. valve it keeps the volcty. up and moving faster.

 

[thumper460]

Your getting there.. smooth the edges.. and eat more metal!! LOL Just dont forget the Valve job!! there is 20-35 HP in the valve job ALONE!! cool??
Just me...........................................

Thumper

 

[reddy351]

Oh, I know about the valve job. I won't chince-out, there. A friend from high school owns a shop that specializes in head work for race cars and stuff. He does great work. I have another shop that does the "shortblock" stuff but, I take all of my heads to him.

You guys in Delaware, Ohio prolly know him. Mike Rush of M&M Head Service in Delaware.

BTW--Looks like I need to get a little happier with the 3/8" ball around the intake boss.

 

[thumper460]

Eat dust.. sucker!! LOL just take your time!!

Tpr

 

[Zero Signal]

You will need to blend the bowls AFTER the valve job too! Don't forget about it. Also you need to cut the inside radius VERY close to the water jacket on both the intake and exhuast so stick to your comfort level there.

Oh and if you value your time and money put into those heads absolutely get new valve guides! My GT40s and valves are shot becuase I tried to go cheap and not do new guides . . . very bad idea.

 

[reddy351]

All of these little (but substantial) things like the hand blending after the VJ and the guides is EXACTLY why I take the heads to this particular shop. He does the blending after the VJ and will advise/recommend anything that should be replaced or done a different way.

There is no replacement for a good cylinder head oriented machine shop.

I understand your concerns, though. Thanks for the heads-ups. Better to say them than not.