I Need Help Again, Knocking At Under Acceleration.

liljoe07 said:

That is the correct fix. If you swap the injector harness around, you will have more issues. The 02 sensor will be trying to correct fuel trims on one side of the engine, and with the injectors swapped around, it will actually be making adjustment to injectors that are now on the wrong side. Then the other side picks up the adjustment and tries to make adjustments, and actually effects the other side. So it turns into a mess for the computer calculations! LoL

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Lolol,
I'm looking into a lightly used HO cam right now. Will any (with in reason) foxbody HO cam work? And what else do I need to swap to make this work?
Thanks..

huckleberry said:

Have you made sure the new plugs are the proper heat range and gapped for your set up? What octane gas are you running?

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Plugs are #2545 autolite gaped to 0.50, I have 93 in it.

huckleberry said:

I would drop the gap to 0.42 to see if that helps. If so I would drop down a heat range and start my gap at 0.45.

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I'll give it a shot and report back, thanks

Ok, I droped my sparkplug gap from .50 to .42, no change.
I did the screwdriver/tin can trick that Jrichker suggested. I have a lot of noise coming from my fuel rail. Loud ticking all over the rail and injector base ( were the injector meets the rail). I also have the chattering noise my valve covers, most noticeable by #4 #1 and #8, but noticeable on the upper intake as well...
I'm wondering if I should just start looking for a new (ish) motor and start from there. The previous owner really messed the car up, I don't know what's what on this poor car,lol. I know for a fact its a non HO firing order, and I'm pretty sure its got a stock mustang computer. Who knows if the cam was switched over or what. It had a gt40 upper that was damaged that I replaced. It also had the 4 hole injectors, but were in rough shape. I replaced all with rebuilt and flow matched 4 hole injectors. I replaced all the plugs and wires with Autolite 2545 plugs, and 8mm advanced auto wires. I replaced the cap and rotor with a msd unit, but didn't replace the tfi.
I replaced almost every sensor in the motor, map, coolant temp sensor, engine temp sensor, ATC sensor, ..
....lol, but it has headers and a cool top I can put up and down while I rethink life..hahaaa... And it shifts grea for a T5..lol

madspeed said:

have you disconnected the battery to reset the computer? I'd try that and then fire it up and rerun codes to see what pops up

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I'll do that for sure tomorrow afternoon and report back any coads I pull out KOEO and KOEO .
Thanks

Ok,
I did a KOEO test and only get the smog and egr codes that we know aren't affecting my drivability. I also did a KOEO test and get the same coded that I did before, egr and smog codes that were listed in a above post.
The noise is still present and I think that I should get the proper cam installed.
My question is what all do I need to install the cam? Is it a simple as sliding the old cam out and installing a new one or do I need more specific parts.
Also the noise is prominent in the injectors, and on the intake. Also on the rocker covers if that helps..
Thanks everyone.

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89oem said:

Have you pulled a valve cover? If you're getting allot of valve chatter there's a reason. Gas octane is good, seems like you have timing correct (does it change if you check w/o moving dist?) Whats your exhaust look/smell like?

Im thinking something is just worn out, valves are floating, timing chain is loose/worn or cam lobes are somehow worn (but these guys know more than me)

If you plan to replace the cam, be sure you have budget for the rest, timing gear/chain, pushrods, rockers....

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My timing doesn't move unless I move the distributor, or hit the throttle then it moves around some. The exhaust smells like exhaust, but when im going it does have a oil (ish) smell. I'm running a catless exhaust, There is some black(ish) water that comes when I first started it and rev it some.
What is all required to change to a ho cam and replace all the trimmings?..
Thanks guys...