I Need Some Help!

[metallic98gt]

I have a 1998 mustang gt with a problem i can't figure out. Starting from the beginning, when i turn the key to power everything right before i start the car the theft light flashes rapidly and the CCRM buzzes/clicks rapidly and the fan turns on and the car will crank but never start.. Soo i took it to my mechanic and he said it needed a new CCRM so he replaced it, same issue.. so he then said it needed a new transponder key.. so i got a new one from a ford dealer in nashville.. still the same issue.. SOO i then decide to get on allfordmustangs.com and posted this problem with them, and one guy sends me a link to a similar issue that was fixed by replacing the ignition switch.. so i replaced the ignition switch.. same problem. checked all my fuses, they're all good. haven't checked the relay's yet, i have reset the inertia switch, but i'm leaning towards the fuel pump being the culprit.. when it does start and allows you to drive it, if you give it full throttle it will chug and bog hard, and if you lightly touch the peddle it will chug, and it will RANDOMLY die, the check engine light will come on for a second, the rpms will slowly drop, and you have no engine.. but sometimes if you dont push the peddle the engine will refire on it's own and you will be driving again and the CEL will disappear, but sometimes if it does refire, then when the rpms drop to 1.5k the battery light will come on and the steering will lock up along with the brakes.. soo after many tow trips back home i decided to take it to the closest ford dealer to me, which is 15 miles from my house.. drove all the way there and died in the parkinglot.. oh and when it dies the CCRM will start the buzz click and wont let you start it until it stops. Finally made it to the dealer and dropped it off for a full diagnostic and 7 hours later they called back and said it was throwing ever P,U,and B code and it could be anything from the Pats controle module, the Fuel Pump, a loose wire, or the Fuel Pump Module. I know it isnt a PATS problem since pats cant disable the engine after 2 seconds of it running, (so i've read) so idk what the deal is here.. Maybe someone else has a clue? To kill the dead battery option, i've replaced the battery and the alternator since both were bad.

 

[wmburns]

Check the CCRM ground around the radiator core support. Next check the grounds around the battery.

Next get a "add a fuse" and tap circuit I/P #18. Monitor the circuit with a volt-Ohm meter (VOM). What you are looking for is to see if the voltage ever drops or not. Where to look next depends upon the results.

Do you have a set of wiring diagrams and service manual? PM if interested in getting a set for yourself.

 

[jesse strunk]

Sounds like the eec is going into program mode. By chance does it have a chip in the j3 port?