I need some tips from those with the Clock pod for their gauges...

[nmcgrawj]

I just got a couple questions....

1.) Does the stock clock pod just pop out?

2.) How did u route the wires up through the dash?

I think thats it. Im thinking about getting it instead of the pillar pod....

 

[LoudToy958]

Actually, the front of the clock pops up, then pull it forward and unplug it. It is pretty easy.

As for the wires, there is room in there, I removed the whole center section from the dash, that made it really easy. The vents are a little in the way, but you can work around them if you pull the radio bezel out.

I bought the Florida 5.0 triple clock pod, and it fits pretty snug. Little tricky to install, but a nice part.

 

[nmcgrawj]

Actually, the front of the clock pops up, then pull it forward and unplug it. It is pretty easy.

As for the wires, there is room in there, I removed the whole center section from the dash, that made it really easy. The vents are a little in the way, but you can work around them if you pull the radio bezel out.

I bought the Florida 5.0 triple clock pod, and it fits pretty snug. Little tricky to install, but a nice part.

Whoa....3 in that small space? Im just doing the dual....

Got any pics? I have never seen that before.

 

[LoudToy958]

Here is a pic if this works - if not, just click the link and you will see it. I will have pics of mine next week some time. Maybe the weekend. I will post them up once I get it all finished up. It looks pretty good really. Just takes some getting used too.


http://secure.florida50.com/cgi-bin/raceshop/cat14.html?id=y9paKyKh

 

[nmcgrawj]

thats huge....i like how they make one to replace the stock cluster. Do they have space for the dummy lights?

 

[LoudToy958]

thats huge....i like how they make one to replace the stock cluster. Do they have space for the dummy lights?

Unfortunatly only the turn signals and bright lights. All the dummy lights are lost. Thats why I didn't go any further with the gauges. I will post pics when I am done though......

 

[Methodical]

You should not have to remove the radio bezel etc. Just use a hanger to grab/pull the wires to/from the gauges. This is the method I used. Peace

 

[CManT1914]

You should not have to remove the radio bezel etc. Just use a hanger to grab/pull the wires to/from the gauges. This is the method I used. Peace

Easier said than done. I tried that when I was deciding where to mount my temp. and oil pressure gagues, and when I realized how much of a PITA it was, I decided to go with the a-pillar mount. But the next gauges I get will go there.

 

[sociopath5.0]

I mounted my fuel pressure and oil pressure gauges in the dual clock pod from Autometer. (I used a high pressure isolator for the fuel, so no flaming, people!) I used the braided stainless -4AN lines for both and routed them through the hole in the firewall above and near the gas pedal. Be sure to use a grommet! About 6 inches below the cowl, if my memory serves. I then snaked them through what appeared to be a rigid, unpainted strut or support for the center dash, keeping them towards the inside of the center dash, and then up and over the center vent duct and through the clock cutout. It was sort of a PITA, but worth it IMO. The 6ft lines are plenty long enough in my experience. When its finished, the lines keep to the left side of the center dash and dont interfere with the installation of aftermarket radios or whatever. I dont have pictures, sorry. But if you look at it, it's really the shortest and best route, as far as I know. Works for me.

 

[CManT1914]

I mounted my fuel pressure and oil pressure gauges in the dual clock pod from Autometer. (I used a high pressure isolator for the fuel, so no flaming, people!) I used the braided stainless -4AN lines for both and routed them through the hole in the firewall above and near the gas pedal. Be sure to use a grommet! About 6 inches below the cowl, if my memory serves. I then snaked them through what appeared to be a rigid, unpainted strut or support for the center dash, keeping them towards the inside of the center dash, and then up and over the center vent duct and through the clock cutout. It was sort of a PITA, but worth it IMO. The 6ft lines are plenty long enough in my experience. When its finished, the lines keep to the left side of the center dash and dont interfere with the installation of aftermarket radios or whatever. I dont have pictures, sorry. But if you look at it, it's really the shortest and best route, as far as I know. Works for me.

I would never feel safe with a fuel or oil line running into my car, even if they had the isolators in place. When I get a real fuel pressure gauge I'm gonna mount it on my cowl.

 

[94gsl5.0]

When running a power adder it's imperative to keep an eye on several vital signs at once FP being the major one. I just don't feel good having my vision of the gauges obscured in anyway. Dirt, rain and what not can get on the windshield. Which is why i don't like the cowl mount and run a electric in the cabin. To each his own, though Curious as to why you would you not feel safe running a mechanical in the cabin if using an isolator?

 

[final5-0]

I would never feel safe with a fuel or oil line running into my car, even if they had the isolators in place. When I get a real fuel pressure gauge I'm gonna mount it on my cowl.

Chris

I'm not in any way saying cowl mounted gauges are wrong but let me just share a thought form a different perspective...............OK

When your car is parked and your not around .......................
when some peeps see stuff like cowl mounted gauges ..................
it can draw attention form not so nice peeps who might want to do bad things to your car.

Guess I'm just the kind of guy who likes to ...................
stay under everybody's radar

Later
Grady

 

[CManT1914]

When running a power adder it's imperative to keep an eye on several vital signs at once FP being the major one. I just don't feel good having my vision of the gauges obscured in anyway. Dirt, rain and what not can get on the windshield. Which is why i don't like the cowl mount and run a electric in the cabin. To each his own, though Curious as to why you would you not feel safe running a mechanical in the cabin if using an isolator?

I agree with the part about the vision being obscured, and I would run an in-cabin electric, but the gauge alone is nearly $200! I can't spend that kind of money on JUST a gauge. Even with the isolator (if I understand the isolator correctly) fuel is still running straight to the gauge right? I can just see it now, one little leak at the gauge, hole in the line, whatever, and if a drop of fuel hits an electrical connection, that can't be good! lol

Chris

I'm not in any way saying cowl mounted gauges are wrong but let me just share a thought form a different perspective...............OK

When your car is parked and your not around .......................
when some peeps see stuff like cowl mounted gauges ..................
it can draw attention form not so nice peeps who might want to do bad things to your car.

Guess I'm just the kind of guy who likes to ...................
stay under everybody's radar

Later
Grady

I COMPLETELY hear you about the thieving bastards part. But half the time I leave my windows or top down anyway. If they want something, all they'd have to do is bust a window (if they're up) and grab my radio, gauges, radar detector etc. I usually never leave my car parked anywhere except at my house or my work. I don't really go anywhere else, lol. But I hear ya.

 

[94gsl5.0]

CMAN, i agree the gauge is a bit pricey... However, I looked at the electrical FP gauge being a 200 dollar insurance policy. It will help me keep my girl from destroying herself. If FP is not rising in relation to boost, immmediatly get off the hammer and figure out whats going on.

I am now confused on the isolator, i thought that an isolator had a electrical sending unit and no fuel was entering the cabin.... maybe someone can enlighten me.

 

[final5-0]

CMAN, i agree the gauge is a bit pricey... However, I looked at the electrical FP gauge being a 200 dollar insurance policy. It will help me keep my girl from destroying herself. If FP is not rising in relation to boost, immmediatly get off the hammer and figure out whats going on.

I am now confused on the isolator, i thought that an isolator had a electrical sending unit and no fuel was entering the cabin.... maybe someone can enlighten me.

I could be wrong but, as I understand it..............................

You still got a liquid going to the gauge but it is not oil, fuel, etc. I think it is a water/anti freeze mix and the isolator is what seperates the two liquids.

Later
Grady

 

[CManT1914]

CMAN, i agree the gauge is a bit pricey... However, I looked at the electrical FP gauge being a 200 dollar insurance policy. It will help me keep my girl from destroying herself. If FP is not rising in relation to boost, immmediatly get off the hammer and figure out whats going on.

I am now confused on the isolator, i thought that an isolator had a electrical sending unit and no fuel was entering the cabin.... maybe someone can enlighten me.

I thought fuel still ran to the gauge itself, but I could be wrong. Anybody know for sure?

 

[SeventyMach1]

I, too, wonder how it works. sociopath has this...... so how does it work man?

 

[94gsl5.0]

I calculated the cost of buying a electrical vs. a mech with isolator and it was still cheaper to go with the mech. However, the electrical is complete plug and play, plus it's much easier to run the electrical lines through the firewall. All in all i am very happy with it. It even recalibrates itslef on every start up, gives it that slight blingy effect. lol I wish my other gauges did that.

 

[94gtslow]

I have the duel clock pod.


And the electric fp guage.

It mounts on the shrader valve on the fuel rail. It then converts it to an electrial signal. So only a wire is going into the cabin, not fuel.

 

[sociopath5.0]

I, too, wonder how it works. sociopath has this...... so how does it work man?

The isolator has a diaphragm at one end inside the engine compartment, which transfers the pressure reading thru a line containing a 50/50 water/antifreeze mix to the gauge inside the cockpit. No fuel enters the drivers compartment at all. The worst case scenario is about 3-4 fluid ounces of coolant mix enters your car in the event of a leak. Leaks are unlikely, however, due to the tough design of the braided line. No leaks here, I check frequently.