LoudToy958 said:Actually, the front of the clock pops up, then pull it forward and unplug it. It is pretty easy.
As for the wires, there is room in there, I removed the whole center section from the dash, that made it really easy. The vents are a little in the way, but you can work around them if you pull the radio bezel out.
I bought the Florida 5.0 triple clock pod, and it fits pretty snug. Little tricky to install, but a nice part.
nmcgrawj said:thats huge....i like how they make one to replace the stock cluster. Do they have space for the dummy lights?
Methodical said:You should not have to remove the radio bezel etc. Just use a hanger to grab/pull the wires to/from the gauges. This is the method I used. Peace
sociopath5.0 said:I mounted my fuel pressure and oil pressure gauges in the dual clock pod from Autometer. (I used a high pressure isolator for the fuel, so no flaming, people!) I used the braided stainless -4AN lines for both and routed them through the hole in the firewall above and near the gas pedal. Be sure to use a grommet! About 6 inches below the cowl, if my memory serves. I then snaked them through what appeared to be a rigid, unpainted strut or support for the center dash, keeping them towards the inside of the center dash, and then up and over the center vent duct and through the clock cutout. It was sort of a PITA, but worth it IMO. The 6ft lines are plenty long enough in my experience. When its finished, the lines keep to the left side of the center dash and dont interfere with the installation of aftermarket radios or whatever. I dont have pictures, sorry. But if you look at it, it's really the shortest and best route, as far as I know. Works for me.
CManT1914 said:I would never feel safe with a fuel or oil line running into my car, even if they had the isolators in place. When I get a real fuel pressure gauge I'm gonna mount it on my cowl.
94gsl5.0 said:When running a power adder it's imperative to keep an eye on several vital signs at once FP being the major one. I just don't feel good having my vision of the gauges obscured in anyway. Dirt, rain and what not can get on the windshield. Which is why i don't like the cowl mount and run a electric in the cabin. To each his own, thoughCurious as to why you would you not feel safe running a mechanical in the cabin if using an isolator?
final5-0 said:Chris
I'm not in any way saying cowl mounted gauges are wrong but let me just share a thought form a different perspective...............OK
When your car is parked and your not around .......................
when some peeps see stuff like cowl mounted gauges ..................
it can draw attention form not so nice peeps who might want to do bad things to your car.
Guess I'm just the kind of guy who likes to ...................
stay under everybody's radar
Later
Grady
94gsl5.0 said:CMAN, i agree the gauge is a bit pricey... However, I looked at the electrical FP gauge being a 200 dollar insurance policy. It will help me keep my girl from destroying herself. If FP is not rising in relation to boost, immmediatly get off the hammer and figure out whats going on.
I am now confused on the isolator, i thought that an isolator had a electrical sending unit and no fuel was entering the cabin.... maybe someone can enlighten me.
94gsl5.0 said:CMAN, i agree the gauge is a bit pricey... However, I looked at the electrical FP gauge being a 200 dollar insurance policy. It will help me keep my girl from destroying herself. If FP is not rising in relation to boost, immmediatly get off the hammer and figure out whats going on.
I am now confused on the isolator, i thought that an isolator had a electrical sending unit and no fuel was entering the cabin.... maybe someone can enlighten me.
SeventyMach1 said:I, too, wonder how it works. sociopath has this...... so how does it work man?
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