I NEED to run a 14.1 quarter mile, How?

[livenfine]

I must admit, I am a hardcore Mopar guy and I always have been! It was just recently I bought my first Ford. My whole family is "Mopar or No car," so many were against my decision to get my Mustang. I love my Mopars and my newly acquired GT equally though.

One of my projects is a '65 Barracuda that we're trying to squeeze in a hemi...

My first new car was a 1970 340 Duster - paid $2,750 for it. Fun car.

Cool, that was my first car as well. Paid $600 but that was back in '77. Anyone seen my Geritol???

 

[FullAuto]

My car is a full weight 91 LX hatch AOD. I ran a 14.13 @ 98mph 1.96 60' N/A on BFG drag radials. Here were my mods at that time:
stock 143k mile longblock
stock cam with 1.7RR
ProM 75mm MAF
BBK 70mm TB
Performer RPM
24lb injectors
BBK shorty headers
O/R H-pipe
Dynomax mufflers
4.10s
SFCs
MSD 6AL
pulleys
K&N stock airbox/silencer removed
NX wet kit

This was done with the spare tire and jack in it. I also ran it on 10* timing for my nitrous kit. I think the RPM intake is hurting me too. I should have bought a regular Performer. If you're wondering about nitrous though. On a 150 shot the same night, I ran a 12.36 @ 98mph on the brakes after hitting the rev-limiter in 3rd. I've since switched to 3.73s and a Bennett custom cam. I've now pulled a 13.81 @ 99mph N/A with 10* timing.

I'd recommend MAF, TB, intake (or at least let tmoss port yours), tires, and losing the front sway bar.... and nitrous!

 

[tmoss]

FullAuto - I could do you some good too if you've got stock heads on that car. Intake swaps are easy. Save that RPM for better heads.

 

[Cue-Ball]

Read this article. It's got some great ideas and should have you running 14 flat pretty easily with minimal investment, especially with the mods you've already got.

http://fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/08/lx/index.shtml

Make sure you take advantage of all the "free" (and really cheap) mods that you can:
Ice your intake. Get a K&N filter. Bypass everything you can with a short belt. Work on your shifting (even in an AOD). Run high octane fuel and bump your timing a few degrees. Take everything out of the car that you can: spare, jack, rear carpet, rear seat, etc. Beg, borrow, or steal a good set of tires - you'll need them since you've got 4.10s.

 

[LT1Killa]

Wow! Thanks Cue-Ball! That article was VERY helpful. I think that 1-D-1 shuffle will help me dramatically. The only thing is I don't know when to go from D back down to first? What RPM is best to do that without blowing up my engine?

 

[gxnos]

Wow! Thanks Cue-Ball! That article was VERY helpful. I think that 1-D-1 shuffle will help me dramatically. The only thing is I don't know when to go from D back down to first? What RPM is best to do that without blowing up my engine?

start in (1), launch, take it up to 6,000 or maybe i lil higher, hit (D), and as soon as you hear it hit 2nd, throw it back in (1). this will keep it in 2nd. hit 6000 in 2nd and hit (D) and finish the run in (D)

 

[davs5.0]

A little info for you lt1killa. The 1-D-1 shuffle will greatly shorten the life of your aod. 6000 rpms is a little high for your combo. Most stock head/cam 5.0's run out of air at 5200 or so. Experiment with shift points. Before you plan on doing the shuffle, get yourself a big tranny cooler and do a service (new fluid, filter) on the trans. You may even want to try some synthetic or B&M trick shift fluid. Doing the shuffle really heats up the trans and you want the best stuff you can find in there.

 

[LT1Killa]

Geez! Now you got me scared of doin it! I'll just get my Transgo shiftkit and let it shift itself. My stang only has 75,000 miles on it and I really don't wanna break it to go a tenth or two quicker. Thanks for lettin me know dav's5.0.

 

[davs5.0]

No problem. Most guys here agree that the shuffle isn't the best thing for the aod. I'm going to get a Lentech valvebody for mine so I can use all my gears and handle the extra power after my h/c/i this winter.

 

[maverick0716]

the main thing i would be scared about is the AOD. my friend has an 89lx 5.0 with a t5, headers, and a 3.73 and ran a 13.49 @ 109.

To get 109 mph in the 1/4 mile you need roughly 290-310 rwhp. Headers are not gonna cut it......sorry

 

[tmoss]

That 13.49 was more than likely at more like 101-103 mph.

 

[Nosfurato]

And no, my 90 has no armrests.

See, my 1990 LX 5.0 has been kinda strange since the day I got it.

When I got it, I had the dealer run a VIN check for me.
The car has the 86 type GT stripe down the cowl of the hood. and... instead of LX on the hatch.. it has Mustang GT printed on the left hand side of the hatch.

No, the car isnt a "four eyes) it is a fuel injected 1990 LX.

The car has map pockets in the doors.. it has the arm-rest in the center console.

Anyway, like I said, I had the dealer (FORD) run the VIN for me.

All they got was that it was a mustang. not an LX.. not a GT.. just a mustang.
Whats up with that??

THIS is the reason I still have the car.. lol

Thinking about reconditioning the thing, but im not sure that its worth it.

what do you guys think?

 

[white95vic]

hey man, get a cobra intake and/or e-cam, my 90lx dyno'd at 225hp and 285ft-lbs with just the cam and pullies, i didnt get it dyno'd after the intake but it was running 14.0s at 99mph blowing 2.2 60 foots because of my road race suspension, stock gearing too. oh, and i wouldnt get bfg's get nittos, we run them on my dads blown 95 cobra, i can launch it at 4,000rpm and it sticks like glue. good luck, and i say spend 500 bucks on an e cam and cobra intake and you should see mid 13's with the tranny buildup at least.

 

[custom90GT]

You're not going to run a 14.1 your first time at the track. One of the most important things you can do for your car is more track time (spend some money on the nut behind the wheel). Get some runs in and learn how to drive before you show off your skill.