I own the slowest h/c/i mustang in the world

Nottoofast50 · Apr 7, 2005

CAr has mods in sig... ran a 13.2@104 like it says. I just recently had a afm n41 swapped in. Car now ran a 14.1@96. WTF?!? I'm getting a chip burned for it tommorow and i talked to the guy at the shop doing it he said it could just need tuning. 80hp slower than my previous combo? I don't see how that could be all tuning. Timing is at 12 and fp is at 40 vacuum off. It has a bad surge at idle that it had before i swapped the cams but the new one being bigger made it worse. Other than that the car runs perfectly besides the fact it has no power above 3-3.5k rpms. I got the cam used, is it possible it's messed up? Wouldn't the car run like crap all over the board if it was?

ty-rone · Apr 7, 2005

I wouldn't get your panties in a bunch too early. Get the car tuned, I am sure you will see a big difference!

Nottoofast50 · Apr 7, 2005

ty-rone said:
I wouldn't get your panties in a bunch too early. Get the car tuned, I am sure you will see a big difference!

The cam was put in 3 weeks ago. Initially i figured it was just me not being able to tell the sop difference but after taking it to the track my worst fears where realized. I have never heard of a tune giving anyone 80+hp so I'd have to say my "panties are in a bunch". I spent 1500-2k on this turd in the last year to have it run slower than stock.

poneypower89 · Apr 7, 2005

Nottoofast50 said:
The cam was put in 3 weeks ago. Initially i figured it was just me not being able to tell the sop difference but after taking it to the track my worst fears where realized. I have never heard of a tune giving anyone 80+hp so I'd have to say my "panties are in a bunch". I spent 1500-2k on this turd in the last year to have it run slower than stock.

Eh, a tune on an already good running car will not give you 80hp.. ive seen em give around 25-30. HOWEVER, your car has something WRONG with it and I have seen cars lose MAJOR amounts of power when something is wrong. Getting a tune will more than likely find the problem and fix it helping you regain the power you are losing and then the tune will add some more to boot on top of that. So yeah, 80hp is deffinetely possible in your situation.

5spd GT · Apr 7, 2005

I guess you didn't degree the cam in?

Curse · Apr 7, 2005

Possible valve spring failure?

mackey · Apr 7, 2005

I ran a 25@40mph. I got you beat.

Nottoofast50 · Apr 7, 2005

5spd GT said:
I guess you didn't degree the cam in?

Lined it up dot to dot

Ray@VSK · Apr 7, 2005

Hey I lost almost 100 HP on one cam & 50 HP on another, got to find the right cam

Nottoofast50 · Apr 7, 2005

Curse said:
Possible valve spring failure?

Valve springs are brand new the trickflow ones from summit that are supposed to go up to 550 or 560 lift which this cam doesn't come close to

Curse · Apr 7, 2005

Sorry man don't know what to tell you, hopefully it turns out to be a quick fix. Good Luck

Nottoofast50 · Apr 7, 2005

Are the anderson cams supposed to be degreed and not lined up dot to dot? I didn't get the cam card with it because i got it used.

nm just called rick he said they all dot to dot

I_AM_CANADIAN · Apr 7, 2005

mackey said:
I ran a 25@40mph. I got you beat.

HTF did u do that????

notchback · Apr 7, 2005

it can be the tune...my guess is something dumb though.

i forgot to put the spout back in once at the track...after i bumped my timing, and was running 1/2 second slower than the week b4 and better weather...took me 3 runs to fig it out

v8only · Apr 7, 2005

unless I'm missing something, you've done nothing for traction and suspension. wanna go quicker? you likely have too much power for that oem suspension.

good rear control arms, drag slicks or radials, an airbag/stiff rear suspension, sway bar removed from the front, and even 4 banger springs up front will likely drop that time way, way down. a h/c/i car should be running low to mid 12's. without the suspension upgrades, you'll never see those times.

NKau · Apr 7, 2005

v8only said:
unless I'm missing something, you've done nothing for traction and suspension. wanna go quicker? you likely have too much power for that oem suspension.

good rear control arms, drag slicks or radials, an airbag/stiff rear suspension, sway bar removed from the front, and even 4 banger springs up front will likely drop that time way, way down. a h/c/i car should be running low to mid 12's. without the suspension upgrades, you'll never see those times.

His trap speed is more indicative of what's going on in this case, and it indicates there is something terribley wrong.
Did you make any other changes while swapping the cam?

Jkstang78 · Apr 7, 2005

Ray@VSK said:
Hey I lost almost 100 HP on one cam & 50 HP on another, got to find the right cam

I agree with that statment. just because you pick a cam does not mean it is the right one for your car. That is why they make custom cams. They take everything done to your car and they will match it to your specs.

If you want to go faster at the track Do suspension work to your car. It helps out so much. You say you ran a 13.2@104. Well I ran 12.73 at 105 and I have my suspension done for drag racing. Here is where you can find info on my suspension. http://www.cardomain.com/id/jkstang78 Just to give you an idea. You got the mph for a 12 sec car. All you need is traction and a Tire.

Ranchero5.0 · Apr 7, 2005

Come on guys, three letter probally explain it better than anything else: 'AOD'

Most likely without a valve body or even and convertor. E cam as bad as it is on a AOD car still starts pulling down around 2k, the N41 if memory serves doesn't start till around 3k similiar to an F cam. You killed the combo with the wrong cam. AOD's need torque to move. Even with the 4.10's you aren't going anywhere fast or able to rev up quick enough to get down the track and build any speed at the far end.

I do agree with the others that you need to tune out the surging problem. Close the throttle and reset the TPS to .98, unplug the IAC and start the car after it's warm see where it's idling at with the IAC unplugged. Remove the IAC and use a dremel or die grinder and remove some material between the two IAC ports on the IAC to create an additional air bypass. Put it back together and check it out. An E cam car will idle stable at 1000rpm with the IAC unplugged. Basicly the cam doesn't want to idle at 800rpm and it gives the puter fits so the puter plays withthe IAC to get it to idle better down low and it surges. PITA.

Jamie

Racerjoey1 · Apr 7, 2005

Its not a traction problem. Look at the mph in both runs, he lost 8mph. Id double check everything make sure its not a simple mistake somehwere, and then go get a tune.

Good luck,
Joey

grrrrrrr · Apr 7, 2005

I think it sounds like a stupid mistake and I would definately say something is wrong with the car. To give you an idea of what stupid problems can do to your car take my case. I was driving happily along when over about a week a progressive surge and popping and studdering and hesitating began to happen. I thought to myself WTF?!?!?! Popped the top on the dizzy just to check things out for S's and G's and discovered the alignment plate that is supposed to be pressed onto the shaft that is turned by the cam had come loose and was twisting around and vibrating all over the place when the motor was running causing my timing to fluctuate like a mofo... long story short, check all the goofy *****... timing, plugs, in your case timing chain... etc... Pop the old cam back in and see if it runs better...

I own the slowest h/c/i mustang in the world

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