I want to go turbo!?

torch93 · Jul 5, 2011

hey guys long time since ive been here, but anyways i wanted to go a differnt route ... turbo!? i wanted to know whats a good kit as far as economy and performance.. trying to meet in the middle .. i got a buddy thats running this kit....Turbo Kits for Ford Mustangs
i think my engine can handle boost
heres what i got:
342 stroker
ARP BOLTS
AFR HEADS 184CC
PROBE 10.5:1
EAGLE RODS
FORDRACING XCAM
FORDRACING 24LBS
PMAS 75mm
GIRDLE
CATON 7QT PAN
BBK FPR
BBK PULLEYS
MSD COIL
FORDRACING 9MM WIRES
ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL
CENTERFORCE DUAL FICTION CLUTCH
HURST SHIFTER
TREMEC T5 TRANNY
FORDRACING 373 GEARS (stock for now)
BBK 75MM TB
TYPHOON UPPER & LOWER INTAKE
BBK H-PIPE
MAC HEADERS
FLOWIES 40s
SEASONED 302 BLOCK?
DEEP DISH BULLITS
5 LUG CONVERSION

all the internals are forged..
also i have forged 9:1 probe pistons and 42lbs injectors laying around
should i be good? i wanna be over safe 450rwhp
if theres anything u dont see on my list and i need please let me know
thanks SN

lancec2c30 · Jul 6, 2011

I would run the 9:1 piston.

Your problem will be making too much power. Stock headed cars are making 400rwhp on 10psi.
A H/C/I stroker will start pushing the limits of your block real quick. You may only get to run 5 or 6 lbs.

On3 performance makes a nice kit for the money. If you want something a little more up-class there is the b&g kit.

If I were to do it over again. I would buy a outside from b&g, or pony down. Then fab a coldside with a vertical flow intercooler.
That way you get away from the crossover pipe heatsoaking your charge pipe coming from the turbo.

torch93 · Jul 6, 2011

6lbs is that on my 10.5:1 or 9:1 ? And when u say too much power is that on the 6lbs ? I'm new at all these stroker n force induction.. Was going stroker a bad idea as far as trying to turbo it?

90lxcoupe · Jul 6, 2011

torch93 said:
Was going stroker a bad idea as far as trying to turbo it?

No, running the stock block is the bad idea

Gearbanger 101 · Jul 6, 2011

Stroker + stock block = no problem
Power adder + stock block = no problem
Combination of the two = split block.

lancec2c30 · Jul 6, 2011

They pretty much summed it up. It'd be hard for me to justify spending all the dough on a turbo + supporting mods, for such a small gain you'll get. Unless an aftermarket block is in the near future.

With the 9:1 pistons, and 6psi, you would prolly make ~550whp.
Who knows, it might last. Or it might not.
That's something you'll have to decide if you want to risk. Lol.

torch93 · Jul 6, 2011

Dang :-( .... I guess I stay N/A .. Hopefully a good tune can put me atlease in the 400 rwhp.. Thanks guys

Cobra912 · Jul 6, 2011

Gearbanger 101 said:
Stroker + stock block = no problem
Power adder + stock block = no problem
Combination of the two = split block.

I agree to a certain extent. If the OP wants a a safe "over 450" with a stock block that ain't gonna be possible. My rod let go before my block did. In fact other than the hole the rod punched in it the block looks great. I ran a stock block 331 with a paxton 1220 making 10lbs and made 200+ mid 10 sec. passes at the track, before I got really greedy and bump up the power with a Vortech YS. Not saying it isn't gonna happen but this magic horsepower # where the block is gonna split is not a hardfast rule. Keep the boost down with a proper tune and it should stay together.

What about fuel? The 42's might be close to max depending on boost but what about pumps? You'll need at a minimum a 255 with possibly an external and a boost referenced regulator if you don't have one already. An MSD box is also important. And a tune is an absolute must, you'll also have to take the cost of one into consideration.

Depends what your goals are for the car. If it's a street car with the occassional flogging ask yourself if it's really worth the hassle

torch93 · Jul 6, 2011

I don't know if this matters but the block is not my stock block... I ordered a 342 crate engine from I believe DSS... like I said I'm new at all this and I ordered this along time ago and just put it together about 1300 miles ago

torch93 · Jul 6, 2011

Cobra912: ya I have the 255 with fpr, and I have that t-Rex external fuel pump.. My internals r all forged.. When I getting this project together I had my buddy who has a 342 with procharger on 15 lbs help me on this build since u was new .. He just told me what to order once I did most if the ordering I got laid off and all I needed was the turbo kit so instead of waiting for a job so I can afford the kit I just went with high comp pistons I had already and started building.. Now that I have a good job and make good money I wanna get back on the that turbo track lol... But if I can't with what I got then Ima have a Lil talk with my buddy an tell him WTF bro..
Oh ya .. I just love turbo or supercharged cars! All the cars i own at the moment r turbo lol.. I have the dd srt4 and a 98 awd turbo eclipse so to me it will be worth it.. And plus I according to my friend I built the motor so it could handle forced induction ..

Gearbanger 101 · Jul 6, 2011

Cobra912 said:
I agree to a certain extent. If the OP wants a a safe "over 450" with a stock block that ain't gonna be possible. My rod let go before my block did. In fact other than the hole the rod punched in it the block looks great. I ran a stock block 331 with a paxton 1220 making 10lbs and made 200+ mid 10 sec. passes at the track, before I got really greedy and bump up the power with a Vortech YS. Not saying it isn't gonna happen but this magic horsepower # where the block is gonna split is not a hardfast rule. Keep the boost down with a proper tune and it should stay together.

What about fuel? The 42's might be close to max depending on boost but what about pumps? You'll need at a minimum a 255 with possibly an external and a boost referenced regulator if you don't have one already. An MSD box is also important. And a tune is an absolute must, you'll also have to take the cost of one into consideration.

Depends what your goals are for the car. If it's a street car with the occassional flogging ask yourself if it's really worth the hassle

My opinion is that if there's going to be a question of longevity with the stock block, why risk going with an overkill set up that’s sure to test it?

I spoke prematurely when I said power adder + stroker = split block.

Be conservative with the expectations and tune and the engine may very well last a long, long time.

That being said.....550hp (+/- 50hp) seems to be the range where the stock long block tends to get "nervous". This is of course not a hard and fast rule, but it tends to be the range where 90% of them give it up.

If this in fact that case, why go through the complexity and expense of a turbo set up, when a conservatively spun centrifugal can be had for about 2/3 the price, and 1/3 the complexity....yet still easily achieve block splitting horsepower levels if pushed.

Especially if this is going to primarily be a street car. Opinions will vary of course and one man’s tolerance or definition of “streetable” may differ from another, but who wants the inconsistency and hassles associated with running a hairdryer for daily usage, that on top of that will continually push the stock short block to levels that may leave you stranded on the side of the road one day?

NIKwoaC · Jul 6, 2011

Forged guts doesn't mean anything, the block will usually break waaaaaaaaaaaay before the internals come into question. Cobra912's car was an exception to the rule, unfortunately.

That said, turbo cars seem to be able to get away with making more power than supercharged cars before they break parts, and I'd be inclined to say that it has to do with the fact that the turbo doesn't add any stresses to the front end of the crank (AKA parasitic losses).

That said, your engine is probably in the neighborhood of 350 RWHP. Do the old boost-power multiplication formula...

[(14.7+B))/14.7]*350=500 B=6.3

Or, in other words, in an ideal world you'd need about 6.3lbs of boost to hit 500 hp to the wheel, which is typically block splitting territory.

90lxcoupe · Jul 6, 2011

torch93 said:
I don't know if this matters but the block is not my stock block... I ordered a 342 crate engine from I believe DSS... like I said I'm new at all this and I ordered this along time ago and just put it together about 1300 miles ago

Its a stock block. Unless it says R, Boss, or Dart on it, it will be a ticking time bomb

1990turbo · Jul 6, 2011

90lxcoupe said:
Its a stock block. Unless it says R, Boss, or Dart on it, it will be a ticking time bomb

Thats what I was thinking. Im pretty sure DSS is just a refreshed used stock block. My stock Block split in two at 9lbs 410 hp and 485 tq.

torch93 · Jul 6, 2011

I see :-( .. Ok I'm gonna cancel the turbo idea and try to get into 400 rwhp plus by tunning... Thanks guys ..

torch93 · Jul 6, 2011

P.s maybe I'll get a dart block or boss ... And I can just use what I got and transefer over ?

Boosted92LX · Jul 6, 2011

I'm asking Santa to bring me an Si trim vortech to run on my stock engine. I love turbos, but for that amount of work to intsall one, like mentioned before, it'll never realize it's full hp potential on a stock block. I'm gonna keep it civilized until I can build a dart block bottom end. (If, I even wanna push it that far) Heck, I may decide more than 400-500 hp is too much!

What are the odds?

FastDriver · Jul 6, 2011

Good plan. I think the newer Dart SHP blocks are the most bang for the bank.

lancec2c30 · Jul 6, 2011

NikwoaC said:
That said, turbo cars seem to be able to get away with making more power than supercharged cars before they break parts, and I'd be inclined to say that it has to do with the fact that the turbo doesn't add any stresses to the front end of the crank (AKA parasitic losses).

I'd say it is the crank stress, along with the increased efficiency of the turbo. If you make 550hp at 14psi on a centri, and a turbo can do it with 12. You've got a little less cylinder pressure to deal with. That's how I understood it.

FastDriver · Jul 7, 2011

On that one I think it has more to do with the parasitic loss. The power it takes to turn the blower's pulley is substantial. So a blown car making 500 at the wheels might be making 650hp or more at the crank before it has to turn the blower. The same turbo car would be making substantially less power in the cylinders and through the crankshaft to generate the same rwhp. It might be making 570-580.

The numbers provided are just to make a point... I've never actually seen a test that showed the amount of power it takes to run a turbo. It's safe to say though, since the same power at the wheels can be generated with significantly less boost on a turbo car.

I want to go turbo!?

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