IAC Motor ???

[AnthonyR23]

Hi, I have 2 IAC motors and both seem to give me the IAC motor error code? So is there any way I can check to see if these are working off the car? You know how you can take the IAC motor apart. There are two pieces, one has the wires connector hooked up the other part is the part that actually bolts on. So if you have the part with the wire connector only, can you check that part somehow off the car??
Thanks!!

It just seems odd that both would be bad, is there any other reason I could be getting the code that points at the IAC?

 

[jrichker]

IAC doesn't work: look for +12 volts at the IAC red wire. Then check for continuity between the white/lt blue wire and pin 21 on the computer. The IAC connector contacts will sometimes corrode and make the IAC not work. The red wire on the IAC is always hot with the engine in run mode. The computer provides a ground for the current for the IAC. It switches the ground on and off, making a square wave with a varying duty cycle. A normal square wave would be on for 50% of the time and off for 50% of the time. When the idle speed is low, the duty cycle increases more than 50% to open the IAC more. When the engine speed is high, it decreases the duty cycle to less than 50% to close the IAC.

Probable cause:
Disconnect the computer main connector and the IAB connector. Measure the resistance between pin 21 on the computer connector and ground. My guess is that you will find less than 200 Ohms, which is a short that would keep the IAB fully turned on.

An old-fashioned dwell meter can be used to check the change: I haven’t tried it personally, but it should work. In theory, it should read ½ scale of whatever range you set it on with a 50% duty cycle. An Oscilloscope is even better if you can find someone who has one and will help.