could u help me with a vacuum leak also I took out my smog system and this is my first mustang I took the tad and tab vacuum lines off and to the EGR I hooked up one silonoid with the green and red and tried to run them to the back of intake and EGR I've looked at the diagram and I'm confused on where to plug stuffyou didn't learn nothin from me, I just regurgitate stuff others have posted to help members with problems and maybe a little googlefu thrown in just to make me sound like I know what I'm posting.
Do you have a thread started with this problem?could u help me with a vacuum leak also I took out my smog system and this is my first mustang I took the tad and tab vacuum lines off and to the EGR I hooked up one silonoid with the green and red and tried to run them to the back of intake and EGR I've looked at the diagram and I'm confused on where to plug stuff
thank you it's my first mustang everything I touch snaps or brakes
Hey man I feel like theHello,
I know this has been discussed all over this site with some really good detailed checklists to troubleshoot with too.
I have a possible vac leak. I've done base idle reset which works "ok" but I cant seem to get her under 950 - 1000 RPM. At full warmup it sits at 950 - 1000. Once you hit the throttle, it comes down to idle but then starts to rise up to 1300 to 1500 and a little hunting. I hit the throttle again, sometimes it takes 3 jabs but the idle will drop quickly back down to 950-1000 and stay there until you tap the gas and it starts all over again.
When I disconnect the IAC, idle does drop but I cant get it to 600-650 base rpms using the TB screw. Even when turned all the way out it hovers at 750. There is a small hole on the butterfly which is supposed to be there, but when I plug it up with my finger, idle goes down what it should.. This is telling me I have a vac leak somewhere, no? I have performed a process of elimination going around and capping off one thing at a time. Capped off the brake booster at the tree to eliminate the BB. This didn't make a difference. Hvac, same thing. Cruise Control, same thing. Fuel pressure reg is new and new line, New EGR valve since there was a little leak with the diaphragm. This helped a little. two new IAC's. tested TPS, all good. TAB and TAD are new with new lines.
KOEO codes - 11 1 11
KOER codes - 11 1 11
CYL balance test - 9
The last thing I needed to check was the canister purge valve. I disconnected the line from the upper intake and applied hand vacuum to it. It would not hold Vac!! Yessss!
I disconnected the valve from the canister and re applied vac. Still would not hold vac and this is the original on the car. Now if I lightly "tap" the valve while applying vac, it seems to be better at holding so I just picked up a new Motorcraft one since they are suppose to be the best .
I applied vac to the new one to test and it doesn't hold vac!! whaaaat! with a slight tap it then works. I checked the ohms and its right in line. I even plugged it in and did a KOEO to energize the valve thinking this would close it and nothing.
My question is - does the engine need to run to energize the valve and signal it to closet to hold vac at idle? I know these valves are suppose to stay closed at idle and WOT and only open at cruising speed.
Just thinking also, when performing base idle reset with the IAC unplugged, are you also supposed to disconnect the SPOUT? I ask because I did not do that and some internet searches say to. I dunno.....
Thank you for all your help and time.
the has to be naturally closed. Gets battery power and switched ground from pcm. I don’t want to sound like an idiot but is the vac pump you using operational. Only asking cuz I’ve been i a situation where the vacuum pump was toast. I believe it the purge operatates when vehicle is cruising.I would assume too that the valve would be closed when powered as to not allow fumes to enter the intake during idle or it would create a vacuum leak.
I applied 12 volts to both old and new valves and it doesn't matter. They both stay open and allow air to flow.
Just thinking out loud here. With engine running, when does the ECU "ground" the valve? and when grounded, does the valve open or close?
Perhaps the valve actually works in reverse, meaning when grounded, it closes the valve which would be most of the time. At cruising speeds the ground would be lifted and the valve would open..
I guess there is only one way to figure this out and eliminate a strange theory.
could u help me with a vacuum leak also I took out my smog system and this is my first mustang I took the tad and tab vacuum lines off and to the EGR I hooked up one silonoid with the green and red and tried to run them to the back of intake and EGR I've looked at the diagram and I'm confused on where to plug stuff
I'll have to see if the transmission guy will fix it and the output shaft seal is leakingTrans fluid is red, although it may get discolored when it gets slung about the bell housing and picking up dirt/crap on it's way out, the seal can't be seen, without pulling the converter.