If the balancer ring spins...would the engine vibrate?

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.

Oct 22, 2004

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Arlington, MA

Jun 21, 2006

#1

• Jun 21, 2006

• #1

I'm trying to figure out why it seems that my car needs 24-30 degrees initial timing to run properly but backfires and barely stumbles along at 10.

Thinking I could have spun my balancer based on some searches on the subject.

Wouldnt a spun balancer shake like crazy because of the counterweight?

 

jrichker

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Jun 21, 2006

#2

• Jun 21, 2006

• #2

Yes. The amount of vibration would probably vary with RPM & the degree of the shift.

 

8

86bluecobra

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Dec 20, 2004

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Jun 21, 2006

#3

• Jun 21, 2006

• #3

that would mean your woodwif key let you down. I was thinking another issue could be you skipped some teeth on your timing chain.

 

tunedin302

I AM the law!!!

Jul 29, 2004

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Jun 21, 2006

#4

• Jun 21, 2006

• #4

86bluecobra said:

that would mean your woodwif key let you down. I was thinking another issue could be you skipped some teeth on your timing chain.

Click to expand...

+1 - did you recently do a cam or replace the distributor?

 

donsbad68

Immensely Educated

Jan 4, 2003

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Jun 21, 2006

#5

• Jun 21, 2006

• #5

possible the rubber insulating ring in the balancer is bad

 

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.

Oct 22, 2004

930

4

18

Arlington, MA

Jun 21, 2006

#6

• Jun 21, 2006

• #6

Actually....I did the timing chain back last october with a steel double roller and both gears (dont remember the brand but it looked really nicely machined) when I did the FTI cam and the afr 165's. But.....

The timing seemed ok then. 10 deg pretty much seemed like 10 deg and 24 was causing some pinging. So it seemed ok.

I have not touched the timing til this past weekend.

The only reason I suspent this at all is because of the amount of timing I need to make this run right.

It's smooth as glass when the mixture is set right.

 

Dark Knight

Founding Member

Feb 1, 2000

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Jun 21, 2006

#7

• Jun 21, 2006

• #7

You really need to change out the distributor, the EFI one wont work right without the computer.


http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/efi-carb/efi-carb.htm

 

HISSIN50

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Nov 29, 1999

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Jun 21, 2006

#8

• Jun 21, 2006

• #8

If the outer ring slips, it's the elastomer that failed, not the key in the crank.

 

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.

Oct 22, 2004

930

4

18

Arlington, MA

Jun 21, 2006

#9

• Jun 21, 2006

• #9

Well, right now, I am using a 1976 granada distributor with an FMS steel gear. It has been in service 4 years now and feels just as solid as the day I put it in .

 

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.

Oct 22, 2004

930

4

18

Arlington, MA

Jun 23, 2006

#10

• Jun 23, 2006

• #10

I just did the "blow the rag out" trick to find the compression stroke, stuck a screwdriver down the plug hole and turned the engine "by hand", felt the rough position of TDC and it corresponds almost exactly with the tdc mark...

Back to the drawing board.

 

T

TENGRAM

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Mar 18, 2006

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Jun 23, 2006

#11

• Jun 23, 2006

• #11

crazypete said:

I just did the "blow the rag out" trick to find the compression stroke, stuck a screwdriver down the plug hole and turned the engine "by hand", felt the rough position of TDC and it corresponds almost exactly with the tdc mark...

Back to the drawing board.

Click to expand...

so, i guess that means its not your balancer. i'm having the same problem. currently running 24*. i think mine might actually be the balancer, because the balancer seems a bit wobbly. maybe your problem is the stator or the hall effect sensor in the distributer? you're checking timing with the SPOUT removed, right? depending on who you ask, the distributor being off a tooth may, or may not, effect EFI cars.