Ignition Coil

A bad CCRM can keep the fuel pump from running, not a coil. Does your fuel pump prime? Do you have adequate pressure? There's a fuse in the underhood fusebox for the FP as I recall. CHeck it, along with all other fuses.

Ok, the coil gets 12 volts constantly with the key on. The TFI sends a ground pulse to the coil to get it to fire. Do you have that ground pulse while cranking?

If you also dont have injector pulsing, the PIP is likely. If you have injector pulsing but no ground signal to the coil, the TFI module is the place to look IMHO. Many parts stores can test them.

Good luck.

[QUOTE='95GT5.0]I cut the ground wire to the Ignition coil and hooked it directly to the battery.[/QUOTE]
Try that again. What did you do?

An ignition coil is not like an electric motor. Crudely stated, the coil has 12 volts connected to it. Then the ground pulse comes in (pulse, not constant ground) and it creates a magnetic field. Then when you pull the ground, the field collapses and the juice tries to find the path of least resistance - your plug gap.

Absent any more info, the ignition module is where I would look. Good luck.

[QUOTE='95GT5.0]I cut the ground wire to the Ignition coil and hooked it directly to the battery.[/QUOTE]

men thats not the way to do it a coil does not work like an electric motor it works with a + and the ground is a pulse sent by the module...

I think you had best enlist the help of a knowledgeable partner.

Look on the passenger side fenderwell (on the front side, kinda under the MAF and IAT sensor). You'll see a box with fins on the outside. Your TFI is there (be sure to keep your heatsink when you swap modules).

As mentioned, a parts store can bench test the module if you desire.

Good luck.

I had the same sort of problem. I changed my oil, let the car Idle for 5 mins, started backing up... surged then died. I have an 87 though. I noticed when I moved the distributor around the car ran for about a minute. I bought a coil and that was not the problem. I took the Ignition module off and had it tested at an Auto Zone, it passed every single times ( about 30 resets) I noticed that the car would get me to work in the cool morning but not back home in the hot day. So I messed with the distributor long enough for my motor to get hot, ( the parking lot that I broke down in .) I had my buddy pick me up in his suburban and I kept the ignition module in front of the vent with heat full on. I had them test it at the same Auto Zone and it failled all tests. $40, problem solved.

[QUOTE='95GT5.0]so the ignition module tested bad on the first test and then tested good the next three times??? What should I do.[/QUOTE]
Is there a chance that the first test was dont incorrectly? If not, it failed. A spare TFI is not a bad thing to have around for when one takes a poo poo. But throwing money at parts sucks. Let's see what JRichker and others think about that.

Good luck.

The cranks OK but no start checklist isn't tailored for 94-95 cars or I would have posted it. Given the level of mechanical skill shown by '95GT5.0, posting it would have confused him. I still recommend that he find a knowledgeable friend to be his hands and eyes.

Back to basics:
Do you have spark?
Do you have fuel pressure?
Will the engine start if you hold the throttle down 1/4 and crank the car?

Maybe Hissn50 with his 94-95 experience, can mentally construct a step at a time path to help this lost Stangnetter get going. Meanwhile I will give some thought to re-writing the Cranks OK but no start checklist for fuel injected Mustangs so that there is a 94-95 specific version.

ignition switch

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

Revised 21-June-2006 to include 94-95 specific information
All text applies to all models unless stated otherwise.

Note: 94-95 specific changes are in red

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park and set the parking brake. Remove the coil wire from distributor & and hold it 3/8” away from the engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) MSD or Crane ignition box if so equipped
B.) Coil
C.) TFI module
D.) PIP sensor in distributor
E.) No ECC or computer power - ECC or computer relay failure
86-93 models only: ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
94-95 models only: EEC or PCM power relay in the constant control relay module. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
F.) No ECC or computer power - fuse or fuse link failure
86-93 models only: Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. All the fuse links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid.
94-95 models only: 20 amp EEC fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire.
H.) Computer

See the following links for wiring diagrams...

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/16/71/3c/0900823d8016713c.jsp for 79-88 model cars
Computer/fuel pump/ignition wiring diagram, 86 model http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167158.gif
Computer/fuel pump/ignition wiring diagram, 87 model http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8016715e.gif
Computer/fuel pump/ignition wiring diagram, 88 model http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167162.gif

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/19/59/5a/0900823d8019595a.jsp for 89-93 model cars
Computer/fuel pump/ignition wiring diagram, 89-90 cars http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8019595f.gif
Computer/fuel pump/ignition wiring diagram, 91-93 cars
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195960.gif

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-98 model cars

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t, then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the Upper RH corner to ground.


If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have.

No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) 86-93 models only: Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay. The fuse links live in the wiring harness near the starter solenoid.
94-95 models only: 20 amp fuel pump fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the Dark green/yellow wire on the constant control relay module.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove the vacuum line from the regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while the pump is running.

Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.

A.) A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring.
B.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.

a.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
b.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).
c.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.


4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.

A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off: only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Non HO 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
E.) No start when hot - Press the throttle to the floor & try starting it if you get this far. If it starts, replace the ECT.

Jrichker is the man.

donsbad68 said:

Jrichker is the man.

Click to expand...

Your darn right he is

[QUOTE='95GT5.0]I know I'm no mechanic, but thats what these sights are for. How ever, Im not useless when it comes to these things. Anyways I put a new TFI. It sounds like i tries to fire as soon as the car turns over but nothing. I guess the next thing to get is a distibutor, I just hate spending that much.[/QUOTE]
Go through the checklist one step at a time, and don't skip any of the steps. The checklist was designed to eliminate the things that work, leaving only the things that don't work. It is easier to figure out why one item isn't functioning than three or four. Don't throw parts at something in hopes of fixing it. That will just make you poorer and worn out from the wasted effort.