ignition problems mind of its own.

SROBERTLAW2003 · Jul 23, 2008

Hi, I just bought a 1995 mustang GT. when I was test driving it and turned it off and tried to re-start it by turning the key on the lights on dash comes on but it doesnt turn over. guy i bought it from says i prob didnt have clutch mashed in all the way. so after buying the car I mashed in clutch to floorboard as i always do and it cranks. well I go to gas station and pump me some gas then puff doenst crank even with clutch being mashed to floor. again when key is on all the usual dash lights you see come on. I turned the key switch off and on for about 10 mins with no luck. dash lights come on everytime. clutch mashed to floor everytime. eventually it cranks and i make it home car runs real good when its running. but hit and miss on it cranking. starter isnt dragging at all looks new. well any suggestions?

late entry also sometimes when im trying to crank it the door locks lock on there own. not shure why this is happening either.

93 LX · Jul 24, 2008

cables?

SROBERTLAW2003 · Jul 24, 2008

93 LX said:
cables?

ya it has new cables, and battery connectors on it also. also has good charge. starter is kicking in good too when it decides it wants to crank. someone suggested it was starter switch or clutch switch or starter relay. just wanted someone to convience me of something so i wouldnt spend alot of money just to stumble on it accidently.

HISSIN50 · Jul 24, 2008

Check the CSS. You'll have 12 volts into it while cranking. Check to see that you have 12 volts leaving it with the clutch pedal to the floor.

If you don't, adjust or replace it.

If you do have 12 volts egressing the switch, go to the starter relay in the underhood fusebox. Look for 12 volts going into the relay coil with the CSS closed while cranking.

The issue is probably the CSS.

Good luck.

SROBERTLAW2003 · Jul 24, 2008

HISSIN50 said:
Check the CSS. You'll have 12 volts into it while cranking. Check to see that you have 12 volts leaving it with the clutch pedal to the floor.

If you don't, adjust or replace it.

If you do have 12 volts egressing the switch, go to the starter relay in the underhood fusebox. Look for 12 volts going into the relay coil with the CSS closed while cranking.

The issue is probably the CSS.

Good luck.

CSS= does this mean clutch sensor switch? sorry Im kinda new at the stang slang thing lol. and if so is that under the dash under the clutch pedle?

HISSIN50 · Jul 24, 2008

SROBERTLAW2003 said:
CSS= does this mean clutch sensor switch? sorry Im kinda new at the stang slang thing lol. and if so is that under the dash under the clutch pedle?

You got it. It's the clutch safety switch. There's a plunger that closes the circuit when the plunger is smooshed into the floor. They're adjustable and are problematic at times (you sometimes have to put the clutch through the floor to get the switch to close).

The connector for the switch has two wires going into one terminal and one wire going into the other one IIRC (I mention it because there are two switches on the clutch).

SROBERTLAW2003 · Jul 24, 2008

well I went to advance auto and bought the ignition switch,starter relay, and clutch safety switch. the CSS had to be ordered. and I bought a chilton book on the stang and unless im helen keller i cant find on the diagram or any where in book which relay is the starter relay? I know there are 3 in the fuse panel under the hood close to batttery. beside them its labeled 1,2,3 also noticed a security system seems to be aftermarket was on it at one time but wires are cut going to the horn that went with system. also noticed a toggle switch located on the fuse panel under dash seems to be a black push button toggle and a white wire and yellow wire running to 2 fuse links.

HISSIN50 · Jul 25, 2008

The alarm stuff will be a wildcard since we can't see exactly what circuit was altered or if it was restored.

The starter relay is the middle one. See here for an underhood fusebox diagram. Thanks to S&2B's (site host) and TMoss (author).

2BADSTANGS · Jul 25, 2008

That alarm is probably causing the doors to Lock/ Unlock as the ignition is cycled. Check the Ignition wires under the dash for a relay spliced in and connected to the alarm wiring, if there's one there it's probably a starter interrupt and should be bypassed to eliminate it from the problem solving equation.

SROBERTLAW2003 · Jul 25, 2008

2BADSTANGS said:
That alarm is probably causing the doors to Lock/ Unlock as the ignition is cycled. Check the Ignition wires under the dash for a relay spliced in and connected to the alarm wiring, if there's one there it's probably a starter interrupt and should be bypassed to eliminate it from the problem solving equation.

now that you mention it I did notice a relay with 4-5 wires connected to the prongs located on botton of relay. wasnt a plug in that looked like it was factory so I bet thats prob some of the problem.

SROBERTLAW2003 · Jul 25, 2008

HISSIN50 said:
The alarm stuff will be a wildcard since we can't see exactly what circuit was altered or if it was restored.

The starter relay is the middle one. See here for an underhood fusebox diagram. Thanks to S&2B's (site host) and TMoss (author).

thanks a bunch for the diagram. helps alot gonna try the easy fix first by disconnecting the relay going to the alarm system thats on the car. then replacing the old starter relay. hope to have it fixed before saturday gonna run it for first time since i bought it. seems to have a ford exsplorer intake and after market cam in it noticed a msd distrib and x-pipe and flows. seems to have low gears too so maybe Ill save alot of cheese on it. and shorty headers.

HISSIN50 · Jul 25, 2008

You can save some money and time by using your DMM or test light. Just check cranking voltage into the clutch safety switch. Then close the switch and test voltage leaving the switch (be prepared for the car to start. Have it in neutral with the Emergency brake applied).

If you have voltage leaving the switch while closed, test voltage at the starter relay.

Doing all of this takes 2 minutes - swapping CSS's, solenoids and other parts takes much longer than testing them.

Good luck.

SROBERTLAW2003 · Jul 28, 2008

thanks guys for all the help.turns out after replacing the ignition key switch,ignition switch,clutch safety switch,starter relay,new battery wires. it was that dang viper alarm that was under dash, it had a ignition kill program to it and evertime it tried to crank the alarm shut it off. so i cut it all out and shot,burned,stomped, ran over it, crushed it at local junk yard then planted it on space shuttle and had it launched off to space.

HISSIN50 · Jul 29, 2008

If it was an alarm issue, it should have always or never cranked. Intermittant cranking still suggests a bad switch, connection or relay (alarms have a grounded output to energize a relay and interrupt the starter circuit. They almost never fail intermittantly).

Just in case it acts up again................

ignition problems mind of its own.

SROBERTLAW2003

Member

93 LX

SROBERTLAW2003

Member

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

SROBERTLAW2003

Member

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

SROBERTLAW2003

Member

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

2BADSTANGS

Member

SROBERTLAW2003

Member

SROBERTLAW2003

Member

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

SROBERTLAW2003

Member

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

Similar threads

ignition problems mind of its own.

Member

Member

"How long does it take to get help in here?

Member

"How long does it take to get help in here?

Member

"How long does it take to get help in here?

Member

Member

Member

"How long does it take to get help in here?

Member

"How long does it take to get help in here?

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency