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Ignition problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter PC Dreams
  • Start date Start date May 25, 2004
P

PC Dreams

New Member
May 5, 2004
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May 25, 2004
#1
  • May 25, 2004
  • #1
I've got a 67 mustang and I can't get it started. its got a 351w in it.

here is the story.

It was hard to start (but would start) about a week ago. I had to replace the starter (bad bendex) and replaced the starter to relay cable as well as the battery cables.


After this It would not start. It has a Mallory coil,distributor, resistor on it.

I checked for gas, no problem there. Spark at the distributor and plugs. Had to replace the pickup module (improper voltage, no drop). Firing order is correct. Cap and rotor looks ok. fuel filter is new.

no fuses blown.

it cranks but never turns over (sounds like it's not getting spark but it is)

Anything else I'm missing? Or is it time to start looking at timing?


One thing that is concerning me is I think I have a short somewhere (who knows where) because when I turn the key to run my tac jumps all over the place (as if you were reving and letting off the gas)
 
J

jesserose17

New Member
Aug 21, 2003
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Southern CA
May 25, 2004
#2
  • May 25, 2004
  • #2
I would disconnect the tach wire and try if that will help. How do the plugs read - are they black & wet? If so, the carb could be running very rich.
 
P

PC Dreams

New Member
May 5, 2004
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May 25, 2004
#3
  • May 25, 2004
  • #3
argg

still no go.

plugs were black but dry.
 
P

PC Dreams

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May 5, 2004
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May 25, 2004
#4
  • May 25, 2004
  • #4
argg

plugs are black but dry...

still no go
 
J

jesserose17

New Member
Aug 21, 2003
219
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Southern CA
May 25, 2004
#5
  • May 25, 2004
  • #5
That means the carb is running real rich. I would either clean the plugs or get a new set.
 
P

PC Dreams

New Member
May 5, 2004
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May 25, 2004
#6
  • May 25, 2004
  • #6


Just cleaned them. Think I may get some new ones and give that a shot..
 
P

PC Dreams

New Member
May 5, 2004
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May 26, 2004
#7
  • May 26, 2004
  • #7
ok new plugs & plug wires have been installed. Nada
 

Max Power

Active Member
Jul 31, 2003
1,774
1
36
St Paul
May 26, 2004
#8
  • May 26, 2004
  • #8
Do ypu have spark?

Do you have fuel?

Is it timed correctly?
 
J

jesserose17

New Member
Aug 21, 2003
219
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Southern CA
May 26, 2004
#9
  • May 26, 2004
  • #9
Check the voltage at the coil input - make sure you are getting at least 6-9V with ballast resistance or 11-12V without with the key in on and start position.
 
P

PC Dreams

New Member
May 5, 2004
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May 26, 2004
#10
  • May 26, 2004
  • #10
hmm

I have fuel, I have spark

I don't know how to check the timing without the car running..

I know the firing order is correct.. what else do I need to check?
 
P

PC Dreams

New Member
May 5, 2004
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May 26, 2004
#11
  • May 26, 2004
  • #11
Update. I was wrong... I don't have spark.

I cranked it for about 5 mins (15 sec burst) and only got spark once.

what to check?

voltage at coil input is 9v (I have the ballast resistor)
 

69PaleHorse

Member
Feb 3, 2004
264
0
16
Ventura County, CA
May 26, 2004
#12
  • May 26, 2004
  • #12
Well, there's not much left to check at this point. Check from Coil to distributor. If that's good, then there is a problem from distributor to plug, and since you have new wires and plugs it is unlikely that it would be them. So it is either a problem at the coil or dizzy, IMO.
 
P

PC Dreams

New Member
May 5, 2004
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May 26, 2004
#13
  • May 26, 2004
  • #13
oh man

ok its getting fire from coil to distrib but not to the plugs. Just put a new module in and it test ok. No idea what else it could be.

I've even got an old distrib (vacume advance) I dropped in. Nothing.
 

Max Power

Active Member
Jul 31, 2003
1,774
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St Paul
May 26, 2004
#14
  • May 26, 2004
  • #14
Did you remember to put the rotor in?
 
P

PC Dreams

New Member
May 5, 2004
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0
May 26, 2004
#15
  • May 26, 2004
  • #15
ROFL

Yes
 
J

jesserose17

New Member
Aug 21, 2003
219
0
0
Southern CA
May 26, 2004
#16
  • May 26, 2004
  • #16
Only thing I can think is the cap & rotor... if they're replaced and doesn't help, then it's likely something else. Check the compression and make sure the cam timing chain is not jumped.
 
P

PC Dreams

New Member
May 5, 2004
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0
May 27, 2004
#17
  • May 27, 2004
  • #17
getting close

well the old dist I dropped in didn't work. Put the Mallory back in but f'ed up the timing (probally a tooth or two off). I'm going to replace the cap and rotor today and see what flies.


anyone happen to know what the timing should be on this?
351W out of a 77 tbird.. haven't been able to track it down on the net
 
3

390Fe

Founding Member
May 14, 2002
236
0
0
Pottstown PA
May 27, 2004
#18
  • May 27, 2004
  • #18
It sounds like you've stabbed the distributor a few times - any chance that the rotor is not pointing at the firing cylinder? er - what I mean is, even though your firing order on the terminals may be correct, it is possible for your rotor to be pointing to say the # 6 position instead of #1. Set your engine to TDC on #1 compression stroke - take off your cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 plugwire. If not either re-stab the distributor so the rotor is pointing to # 1- or take the easy lazy way and reorder your plugwires to match your rotor position.

I know its a shot in the dark but I think it might be worth checking. Oh, also- did you replace the hardware on the vac secondary distributor? Points and condenser? Condensers are known for going bad just sitting - You can also check for spark at the points by moving them with a flat tip screwdriver and the ignition on.
 
P

PC Dreams

New Member
May 5, 2004
13
0
0
May 27, 2004
#19
  • May 27, 2004
  • #19
My GOD

Its alive

thanks for the help guys. Turns out it was the rotor and bug. Fires up better than ever now
 
J

jesserose17

New Member
Aug 21, 2003
219
0
0
Southern CA
May 27, 2004
#20
  • May 27, 2004
  • #20
Great! Glad we were able to help you!
 
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