Ignition Switch Fusible Link!

Welcome Foxvert
sometimes the fuse should will go before a wire would burn in two, so if it's not a fuse somewhere (not all are in the fuse box) then you may have simply missed one. Use a volt meter and follow the wire to find where you do and don't have voltage to narrow it down.
I would use an ammeter to see if there is any power flowing out of the battery into the system and shorting somewhere. If that surge of electricity heated the wires enough you could have two wires somewhere in the harness that melted the insulation and are now contacting, or even a short to ground. That's all speculation until you test test test. Are you getting voltage to the fuel pump at least? test test and more test

Fuse links come with a current rating just like fuses. A clue as to what current they are designed for is to look at the size wire they protect.

Choose the fuse according to the wire size.


Wire size current table:


18 gauge wire = 5-8 amps
16 gauge wire = 10-12 amps
14 gauge wire = 15-17 amps
12 gauge wire = 20-25 amps
10 gauge wire = 30-40 amps
8 gauge wire = 50-60 amps.

Keep in mind that the wire size in the chart is for the circuit itself, not the size of the fuse link. The packages of fuse link repair material you can get at the auto parts stores also will have a current rating on them.

Fuse link material is available at most good auto parts stores. There may even be a fuse link already made up specifically for your car. Just be sure to solder the connection and cover it with heat shrink tubing.

Heat shrink tubing is available at Radio Shack or other electronics supply stores.

See the video below for help on soldering and heat shrinking wiring. There is a lot of useful help and hints if you don’t do automotive electrical work all the time.

View: http://youtu.be/uaYdCRjDr4A