Ignition switch problems

Tim65GT · Aug 30, 2005

I think you have a couple serious wiring issues that need to be fixed first. If you just replace parts and wiring, you are fixing the result, not the cause.

You may end up with a melted pile of metal and plastic if you are not careful.

Look at the schematics and troubleshoot carefully. If it is beyond your capability, Get Help.

it seems your problems may be beyond the ability of this forum.

I just don't want to see your wiring get fried again, or worse, your entire car and garage/house.

19stang66 · Aug 30, 2005

So if that pink wire is a resistor, then it should get warm when the ignition is on, or??? If I find that the rest of the wires are fine besides the yellow one, could it be that the ignition switch caused the yellow one to melt.

krash kendall · Aug 30, 2005

19stang66 said:
Where and what is the Park/Neutral switch?.....

......Is the amp gauge always supposed to start in the middle (all others start to left and move to the right).

The Neutral Safety Switch would normally be at the shifter arm if it has an automatic or there will be a plug if a standard that came equipt with one. the auto harness has two two-prong plugs that go to the tranny, one for reverse lights the other for neutral or park.

The amp most likely won't move at all. A volt guage will start to the left and move to the right. There was a link posted last month to an article all about the ford amp guages and how useless they were due to the fact that the electrical would have to be near meltdown for any needle deviation.

19stang66 · Aug 30, 2005

Do you have to have a neutral saftey switch for the ignition to work properly? I think I have found the problem with the wiring. The yellow from the ignition goes to a plug converter thingy in the dash were it converges into two black/yellow wires. I followed the black/yellow wire to the alternator and selenoid and am finding a coulpe of melting points. Can I buy a new plug or do I have to buy an entire new wire harness?? Look at the pics. Should I get a new voltage regulator while i'm at it??

krash kendall · Aug 30, 2005

The red blue wire from the ignition goes to the neutral safety switch via a single plug then a double plug. The other wire coming out of the double is also red blue. Splice these together to bypass the switch.

That alternator harness looks pretty cooked. If you can't find a good used one then order a new one.

19stang66 · Aug 30, 2005

How hard would it be to replace the headlight wiring harness that runs inside of the engine bay?? I'm looking at the one from CJ Pony Parts, its like $90. Would I need anything special for my headlights?, I have the Wagner Brite-Lite's. I am also going to install my headunit along with 2 6x9s, 2 6 1/2's, 1 RF P2002 amp, and 1 RF Punch Stage 2 sub (10in), do I need to upgrade anything? I was thinking probably my battery for sure as its just a plain jane one right now and I thought i've heard you should get a bigger/better alternator too. Why is there an extra plug thing on this new ignition switch? Whats it for?

krash kendall · Aug 31, 2005

Don't worry about that extra connection. I have two switches, one with and one without. I rang it out with a multimeter but I can't remember the result. It doesn't matter though because it works in your harness just like your old one.

19stang66 · Sep 1, 2005

come on, I know somebody else can answer my other questions

mdjay · Sep 3, 2005

19stang66 said:
How hard would it be to replace the headlight wiring harness that runs inside of the engine bay?? I'm looking at the one from CJ Pony Parts, its like $90. Would I need anything special for my headlights?, I have the Wagner Brite-Lite's. I am also going to install my headunit along with 2 6x9s, 2 6 1/2's, 1 RF P2002 amp, and 1 RF Punch Stage 2 sub (10in), do I need to upgrade anything? I was thinking probably my battery for sure as its just a plain jane one right now and I thought i've heard you should get a bigger/better alternator too. Why is there an extra plug thing on this new ignition switch? Whats it for?

It's not too tough to swap the wiring harness and alt. harness in your case. The stock wiring will be fine on the headlights.

The charging system is always an issue with these cars. Upgrading is a serious consideration for your application. Especially if you already have AC and maybe an electric fan. There are several ways to go, but more amps, and a better regulator is the main focus. On the tail side, good grounds are crucial. Do as much short run grounding as possible!

PS Thanks for the kind words earlier!

19stang66 · Sep 3, 2005

By more amps do you mean alternator wise and by a better regulator do you mean voltage regulator?? I don't have ac or an electric fan. Thanks!

mdjay · Sep 4, 2005

If you don't have ac or other peripherals, it may work for you on the front side. However you will notice dimming at stop lights while idling at night. If you starve your amps, they can blow and so can your speakers.

Higher amperage on the alt. and a solid state voltage regulator if you go the Ford route. The GM one wire alt. with internal regulator is getting popular as well. Just get one around 100amps.

Edbert · Sep 4, 2005

mdjay said:
There are several ways to go, but more amps, and a better regulator is the main focus.

Complete agreement, but simpler wiring is another good reason. Nothing easier or better looking than a single wire!

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