Ignition Switch Problems

Bryan83taco

Active Member

Feb 4, 2003

554

40

39

SF Bay

Jul 29, 2012

#1

• Jul 29, 2012

• #1

So I've gone through 2 ignition switches in 2 weeks. Is this a sign of a deeper problem?

First one crapped out then I replaced it with a switch from Oriellys. Manufactured by BWD. 2 weeks later this one craps out. It's possible these are crappy ignition switches. I'm going to order a scott drake switch from CJ Pony parts tomorrow.

Car is originally a 6 cylinder. Previous owner converted it to a 302. I'm assuming its a points ignition system. Any ideas?

 

horseballz

10 Year Member

Sep 30, 2009

824

19

49

Las Vegas, NV

Jul 30, 2012

#2

• Jul 30, 2012

• #2

Could be crappy switches, but your issue begs the question, "are you running any heavy power draw items off of switched (key on) power, such as high powered stereo, air conditioning, etc?" After you install another new switch, after running the car for a few minutes, reach your hand up under the dash and feel the back of the switch and the connector to see if its hot. If it is , drink 2 beers (at least) and get back to us and we'll lead you through the next steps.
My $.02,
Gene

 

Bryan83taco

Active Member

Feb 4, 2003

554

40

39

SF Bay

Jul 30, 2012

#3

• Jul 30, 2012

• #3

The previous owner installed a amplifier and two 8" subs. Not my kinda thing, I will be removing them whenever I get the time. I'm going to order a better quality ignition switch today. Any recommendations?

 

SoCalCruising

Founding Member

Jul 25, 2000

2,437

0

47

SoCal

Jul 31, 2012

#4

• Jul 31, 2012

• #4

Well, I'll just say that I've never had a problem with a Scott Drake part. If it fails, I would definitely start hunting elsewhere for the root problem.

 

Bryan83taco

Active Member

Feb 4, 2003

554

40

39

SF Bay

Aug 1, 2012

#5

• Aug 1, 2012

• #5

Thanks guys, I ordered the switch from CJ pony parts. I'll get back to you guys an update as soon as possible.

 

J

jerthemost

Member

Sep 9, 2012

112

1

19

Aug 6, 2012

#6

• Aug 6, 2012

• #6

My advice is to rewire all large loads thru pilot relays. Headlights and A/C compressor and heater fan. I even rewired my ignition thru a relay. My switch was so hot could not touch the key especially if runnig lights or a/c. My switch finally toasted so i bought a new one from johns mustang in Houston. My socket was burnt up too so i soldered heavy guage wire to the pins on the ig switch. Now it runs very cool and no problems at all for 2 years. You don't need an expensive switch just get the load off. Ford should be ashamed for some of the things they did just to save a buck.

And a side benefit is much brighter headlights and cooler light switch as well.

 

pocketlint

Member

Jul 29, 2012

44

1

8

Georgia

Aug 7, 2012

#7

• Aug 7, 2012

• #7

jerthemost said:

My advice is to rewire all large loads thru pilot relays. Headlights and A/C compressor and heater fan. I even rewired my ignition thru a relay. My switch was so hot could not touch the key especially if runnig lights or a/c. My switch finally toasted so i bought a new one from johns mustang in Houston. My socket was burnt up too so i soldered heavy guage wire to the pins on the ig switch. Now it runs very cool and no problems at all for 2 years. You don't need an expensive switch just get the load off. Ford should be ashamed for some of the things they did just to save a buck.

And a side benefit is much brighter headlights and cooler light switch as well.

Click to expand...

Don't hit me if I'm wrong, but I'm not sure that's something Ford did. I've not heard of someone with this problem before. I have my electric fan, heater, and stereo wired to one of the switched fuses and my switch is never the slightest bit warm. It's the original ingnition switch, too. (none of these are wired to the actual switch. just the switched fuse)

To OP, I'm not sure if it was the Scott Drake one, but I just ordered a new one from CJPony Parts myself. My driver door key cylinder is frozen up, so I took the opportunity to replace both doors and the ingnition with keyed alike cylinders. I got the ones that are NOS. But I think only the door locks and keys are NOS. The ignition is just a keyed alike reproduction, I believe. Haven't put em in yet. Hope I have no problems after I do. I have ordered several things from CJP and many of them manufactured by Scott Drake. Never had a problem and I believe Scott Drake to be of better quality than the brandless reproduction stuff. CJP has pretty good customer service too, imo.

 

Bryan83taco

Active Member

Feb 4, 2003

554

40

39

SF Bay

Aug 31, 2012

#8

• Aug 31, 2012

• #8

Update

So I got the SD ignition and replaced it. No dice. It's doing the same thing. Car runs until the key goes from the "crank" to "run" position. Not sure if I got a bad one or what. The car at least ran for a few weeks with the parts store ignition switch. I think I'm going to pick another Orielly's switch and see what happens, just for s and giggles. Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

C

carguy557

Member

Jul 5, 2012

10

1

14

Aug 31, 2012

#9

• Aug 31, 2012

• #9

have you checked the resistor wire out to the coil ? This is bypassed during cranking and could be giving you that problem

 

Bryan83taco

Active Member

Feb 4, 2003

554

40

39

SF Bay

Aug 31, 2012

#10

• Aug 31, 2012

• #10

I was just reading about the resistor wire. I will check it tomorrow. Thanks!

 

Bryan83taco

Active Member

Feb 4, 2003

554

40

39

SF Bay

Sep 1, 2012

#11

• Sep 1, 2012

• #11

So after doing some checking today (testing voltage at coil, etc) after about 2 times cranking it the car runs. WTF. Not sure why or how. I even took it for a ride and stopped and started it again myself. Everything works

 

bartl

Active Member

Feb 4, 2001

218

8

29

West Rutland, Vermont

Sep 3, 2012

#12

• Sep 3, 2012

• #12

Your symptom of starting but dying once the key is released is usually caused by a poor connection between the ignition switch and the coil. It can also be a wire whose conductor has broken inside the insulation and loses contact when the wire is moved or bent. There are also a couple splices before the resistor wire for ignition-on feeds like the turn signals and heater blower motor.