ignition wiring help

You will love thie websiteMustang FAQ - Engine Information

The white and pink is the ign. start wire. Also the directions should come with the push button.

Not to disappoint but simply to inform:
it has been done before and it's kinda redundant if you need your key in the ignition anyhow.

In your opening post, you noted you didnt know of any one ever having done it. I just wanted to let you know it had been done, as have RF transmitters and the like.

You can wire it any number of ways. I would use an accessory source for the switch's input. Tap into the interlock circuit before the CSS if you want to have to push the clutch pedal (that's a good idea, not only for safety but for accidental bumps of the button) or wire it after the switch if you don't want to have to push the pedal. Your call.

Always test wires you're going to tap into with a DMM (or test light in this case).

i have a push button in my 89 lx, all i did was replace the cigarette lighter and used the power source from that and ran a wire from the starter relay to the other conector on the button, took me like 10 mins for all of this. i picked the cigarette lighter spot only because i like the hidden part.

HISSIN50 has given you some very wise advice on making sure you do not bypass
the safety interlocks on the starter circuit. Be sure you do as he has recommended.

Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds


Starter solenoid wiring for 86-91 Mustang



Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or earlier Mustang with upgraded high torque mini starter.

If you have limited experience with electricty, maybe you should consider another project or recruit someone good with electrical stuff to help.

Here's an online course that you can use to get you up to speed in the electrical department...

Try Automotive Online Instruction for a beginning course. The course is very good and best of all, it is FREE!!!

1991notchbackLX said:

i like to tackle projects outside my comfort zone, it's the best way to learn! thanks for the link to that course, i'll do my research and ask my father (master electrician) about the wiring diagram... it makes sense to tap into the wire after the CSS to keep that safety precaution functional... if i only knew what the CSS looked like...

Click to expand...

You'd tap into the circuit before the CSS (between the ignition switch and the CSS) to keep that functional in your new starting circuit.


As Jrichker noted, if feasible I'd just let your Dad do the install while you watch him. This will make sure it's done proficiently and you'll learn a lot more (watching and listening to him while he works). You will want to solder this connection (the new leg into the white/pink wire) if possible.

Also grab a repair manual. It will help with finding info on things like the clutch safety switch.

Don't take offense. We're just throwing out ideas to try and minimize any issues you might have with this project and down the line.

Good luck.

While browsing my collection of tech notes, I found this one. It uses the safety lockouts to prevent the car from being started while in gear.

Tools needed:
#3 Phillips screwdriver
Small jeweler’s screwdriver
Heat source to shrink the heat shrink tubing.
Soldering gun
Rosin core electrical solder.

Parts needed:
AutoZone Ford electrical connector pin kit
Push button starter switch
18 gauge stranded automotive wire
3/16” heat shrink tubing 6” or longer
1/4 “ heat shrink tubing 6” or longer
3/8” heat shrink tubing 6” or longer
2 each 18 gauge ring terminals
12 each small tie wraps




Make sure the ignition switch is off when you do this. I recommend that you disconnect the ground cable from the battery if you don’t mind losing your radio and computer settings. The computer will relearn the settings after about 15-20 minutes of highway driving.

Remove the plastic cover from around the steering wheel: it is secured in place with 3 Philips head screws.

Remove the ignition connector from the ignition switch. From the front side, use a jeweler’s screwdriver to lift up the plastic finger that holds the white/pink wire in place. Pull the wire out from the rear. Crimp the mating pin from the AutoZone Ford electrical connector pin kit onto the 18 gauge pigtail. What you are doing is adding an extension onto the white/pink wire, so you use a male pin to plug into the female pin that was in the ignition switch connector. Doing it this way will allow a neat and easy way to return to the stock configuration. Put a 1 1/2” long section of heat shrink tubing on the pigtail and then join the connectors. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the exposed contacts and heat until the tubing is uniformly shrunk all around. This will insulate the contact pins and keep the pins from pulling apart. This is one of the wires that will go to your pushbutton, so give some thought to how long you want it to be.

From the front side, use a jeweler’s screwdriver to lift up the plastic finger that holds the red/ lt green wire in place. Pull the wire out from the rear. Scrape a 1” section of the insulation off the wire. Strip 1” off the 18 gauge wire you are using to connect to the push button switch. Wrap in around the bare place on the red/lt green wire and solder it. Cut another 1 1/2” piece of heat shrink and slide it over the bare solder joint. Apply heat until the tubing is uniformly shrunk all around. Slide the red/lt green wire back into the plastic connector shell and make sure it locks in place. This wire provides power to the computer, fuel pump and ignition, so you don’t want it to come loose from the connector shell. Route the two wires down the steering column so that they do not snag anything and tie wrap them in place. Replace the plastic ignition switch cover

Find a suitable place for your push button switch and drill the mounting hole. Crimp a ring terminal on the end of each one of the pigtail wires you ran from the ignition switch. Cut a 1” piece of the 3/”8 heat shrink tubing and slide it on each of the pigtails. Connect the pigtails to the screw terminals on the push button switch, then slide the heat shrink tubing over the exposed screws. Apply heat until the tubing is uniformly shrunk all around. This will protect the wiring from short circuits since the power side of the push button is hot anytime the ignition switch is in the Run position.


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel pump, alternator, ignition & A/C wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Computer, actuator & sensor wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Fuse panel layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

Vacuum routing
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

Mustang5L5 said:

But don't you still have to put the key in the ignition anyway? Seems a little redundant?


Now if there was a way to install a keyless pushbutton setup that would be sweet as hell! I have that on my G35 and it's nice to never have to take a key out of your pocket to unlock the doors, open trunk or start the car!

Click to expand...

I am glad it is redundant. I wouldn't want my car to start unless I had a key or other type of security device.

You are correct about having a "keyless system", it would be nice. Most of us are too busy doing the fixup & power up things to give much thought to that.

Maybe I need to think about one of the thumbprint/fingerprint scanners used with high security computer login. Combine that with the pushbutton start/run and you would really have something.