I'm a lame mechanic

jackstraw

New Member

Aug 30, 2005

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Mar 14, 2006

#1

• Mar 14, 2006

• #1

I have FRPP brakes and the rotors rusted. I got some hot **** paint and was gonna bead blast and paint them. Got the front rotor off no problem. The rear rotor had the parking brake cable right in front of the bolt that holds it in. The cable goes to some spring thing. I losened up the bolt and didn't like it. So as I tightened back up, thye bolt sheared off, the spring bounced off my head and it turned into a bad night. Anyone with knowlage of this please reply. Thanks

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

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Mar 14, 2006

#2

• Mar 14, 2006

• #2

Did you get injured?

That sux mang...

You can get a new stock caliper at AutoZone fairly cheap.

 

S

SilverGTV8

New Member

Nov 30, 2003

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West Brookfield, MA

Mar 14, 2006

#3

• Mar 14, 2006

• #3

I pulled that bolt off onone side this weekend, before I realized what it did.

It took about 45mins and ***** luck to get it back together.

it can be done, it has to be off the car, it takes a screw driver and a good pair of needle nose pliers.

But sounds like you need a new bolt

 

jackstraw

New Member

Aug 30, 2005

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Mar 14, 2006

#4

• Mar 14, 2006

• #4

I still have the problem of the parking brake cable in the way. I'm clueless and should stick to electrical work. Now my ride is jacked up in my garage and I can't get the ****ing rotor off!!!!!!!!

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

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Mar 14, 2006

#5

• Mar 14, 2006

• #5

Do you have a Haynes or Chiltons manual?

 

jackstraw

New Member

Aug 30, 2005

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Mar 14, 2006

#6

• Mar 14, 2006

• #6

no. do they have frpp stuff in those books. it's not stock stuff.

 

S

SilverGTV8

New Member

Nov 30, 2003

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West Brookfield, MA

Mar 14, 2006

#7

• Mar 14, 2006

• #7

12mm open end. to get the caliper off.

You need to pull the brake cage to get teh rotor off. That's a 15mm with a 3" extension and a lot of leverage.

The rotor probably froze on, a couple of good whacks near the outer edge will free it up.

 

the98stang

Active Member

Aug 12, 2005

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47

Clovis, CA

Mar 15, 2006

#8

• Mar 15, 2006

• #8

Kilgore Trout said:

Do you have a Haynes or Chiltons manual?

Click to expand...

+1 on the Haynes. It will save your ass over and over again

 

M

Mindstatic Pro

New Member

Jan 15, 2006

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INDY

Mar 15, 2006

#9

• Mar 15, 2006

• #9

Step 1. Go to store
Step 2. Buy case of beer
Step 3. Return to garage
Step 4. Open beer immediately, store rest in fridge
Step 5. Call your buddy and coax him to help with the lure of beer
Step 6. Finish beer 1 and start on beer 2
Step 7. When friend arrives give him a beer
Step 8. Sit back and watch friend fix problem while you polish off the case

PS. Make sure friend does not run out of beer as he may go home

 

Hammer1999Gt

Member

Mar 26, 2004

169

1

16

Toledo, OH

Mar 15, 2006

#10

• Mar 15, 2006

• #10

I don't want to jack this thread but how did you get the front rotor bracket thing off? I can not get those two bolts lose to save my life. Are they reverse thread. I put a breaker bar on the lower one and it still would not budge (also sprayed with PB). Should they be this tight? I would assume that they have been off before 75K miles. I got pissed and put the caliper back on better luck next weekend.

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

4,749

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Mar 15, 2006

#11

• Mar 15, 2006

• #11

They may have red threadlock. Strike the head of the bold with a drift or use heat to break the threadlock.

 

Hammer1999Gt

Member

Mar 26, 2004

169

1

16

Toledo, OH

Mar 15, 2006

#12

• Mar 15, 2006

• #12

Are you supposed to use thread lock on those?

 

damacman

Member

Aug 12, 2003

529

0

16

Phoenix, AZ

Mar 16, 2006

#13

• Mar 16, 2006

• #13

Guys, this is a simple problem to resolve. In order to remove the rear caliper, one must remove the emergency brake cable. To do that, you need to first remove the spring (in this case, already done), then remove the C-clip that retains the e-brake cable and slide it out (towards the front of the vehicle). Once the cable is out of the way, one can access the bottom bolt to the caliper and easily remove it.

Replace the bolt that you broke while the assembly is apart. When re-installing the cable, the spring is pretty tough to get back on. I typically use a pair of vise grips to hold the spring on the bolt that you broke then use a pair of big channel locks so that I can get enough leverage to get the spring back in the slot.

No big deal . . .

 

Mike97gt

it doe snot

Founding Member

Jan 26, 1999

10,633

7

89

the people's republic of massachusetts

Mar 17, 2006

#14

• Mar 17, 2006

• #14

If you guys are just trying to remove the calipers to do a brake job or rotors then why take the e brake cables out. there is 2 bolts that hold the caliperr to the bracket if you take those out then the e brake cable goes with the caliper and you got a ton of room to remove the 2 15's that hold the bracket on.

the only time the cables have to come off is when you are replacing the caliper itself. to do a brake job, replace rotors or anything else the ebrake cable can stay on.

here is the pic of the 2 12-13mm ( depends on car) bolts to remove first.



after you remove those two bolts you can pry the caliper from the bracket and then remove the 2 15 MM bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the rear end. then you can remove the rotor.

 

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SilverGTV8

New Member

Nov 30, 2003

295

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West Brookfield, MA

Mar 17, 2006

#15

• Mar 17, 2006

• #15

On a side note it took me over 45mins to reinstall the spring that I removed on accident. The spring goes into a coil bind situation and is extrem;ly difficult toreset. You can remove the ebrake cable with out removing the spring.

I only removed my cailpers because I painted them. If it wasn't for that I would have done just what SVT Tech said.

 

S

SilverGTV8

New Member

Nov 30, 2003

295

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0

West Brookfield, MA

Mar 17, 2006

#16

• Mar 17, 2006

• #16

Hammer1999Gt said:

I don't want to jack this thread but how did you get the front rotor bracket thing off? I can not get those two bolts lose to save my life. Are they reverse thread. I put a breaker bar on the lower one and it still would not budge (also sprayed with PB). Should they be this tight? I would assume that they have been off before 75K miles. I got pissed and put the caliper back on better luck next weekend.

Click to expand...

They are extremly tight because they do have thread locker.

I used a 1/2" rachet with a 2ft pipe on the end to break it free and that still took quite a bit of force. Once it was free I was able to use an air rachet to remove them. They stayed pretty bound up till they were almost out. There is a ton of locker on them.

When I reinstalled them I torqued them down to 85ftlbs.

 

Pearl02

Member

Nov 27, 2004

496

0

16

Kansas City

Mar 17, 2006

#17

• Mar 17, 2006

• #17

SilverGTV8 said:

They are extremly tight because they do have thread locker.

I used a 1/2" rachet with a 2ft pipe on the end to break it free and that still took quite a bit of force. Once it was free I was able to use an air rachet to remove them. They stayed pretty bound up till they were almost out. There is a ton of locker on them.

When I reinstalled them I torqued them down to 85ftlbs.

Click to expand...

I used my torque wrench to remove the bracket bolts. They have to be retorqued to around 70 to 80 foot pounds. This is one step you'll want to follow. I know from personal experiance. Pearl02.