I'm sick and tired of this! somebody please help me!!!

hoss331stang · Mar 21, 2004

Ok, Heres the deal. this is every thing i have...lol

331ci Stroker with 9.25:1 compression, forged I beam rods, forged crank, Pro-lite Reverse Max Quench Pistons,D.S.S. racing Main support System, Dss Racing Windage Tray, AFR 185cc cylinder heads w/ 61cc's, Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 274HR Cam, 1.6 Crane Rockers, Holley 650 Double Pumper Carb, Custom flamed Valve covers and Breather, Mr. Gasket Crankcase breathers,3 core aluminum Radiator, Black magic Electric fan, Ford Racing A/C delete,No smog, 130 amp alt.,Underdrive pulleys, BBK 1 3/4 Longtubes,BBK 2.5'' H pipe, Spintech Pro Street Mufflers,MSD 6AL, MSD BLASTER 2,MSD billet distributor with mechanical advance springs, 3.73 gears

Well I have a problem. Now SOMETIMES, only SOMETIMES, it will buck and sputter and backfire and make no power. Well my first guess was the coil. I changed it, still did it. My second guess was the wires, changed them to Accel 300+ race wires, it still does it.

I belive it could be one of three things or a combination.

-somethings up with the carb because i think it might be running too rich, it keeps fouling plugs....hell, even one had gas leaking off of it!!

-The timing is screwed up, it could be jumping around or something, because when i had the motor built the guy put the heavy springs in the distributor and crushed them, therefore it has full timing even at idle and it idles friggin high as crap.

-Bad Ground somewhere.

I know it cant be ignition because everything with ignition has been fixed.

What do you guys think?

BTW: What should my timing be set at judging by my combo?

Thanks in advance guys!

1986LX2002 · Mar 22, 2004

My car did the same thing, and I had two grounds gone. Find the grounds and just make new ones. One of mine was totally torn apart, and so when i would hit the gas the car would only hit like 3200rpm and that was it, and it backfired and bucked hard. So just the basics first and then work your way out.

SmockDoiley · Mar 22, 2004

Dude, where is the blower? What are your jets set at? Also, if you know the timing is messed up then why not fix it? Full timing is a bad thing at idle. Check those grounds.

hoss331stang · Mar 22, 2004

I had to sell my other charger because it was too small for my motor. I'm in the process of saving up for a NOVI 2000 .... but anyway, i don't know what to set the timing on or how to fix the floats...See, i didn't do all of the fuel and ignition stuff, my mechanic did, and he is too swampped to help me at the moment, so, i'm on my own.....

I need a timing light!!! dang it!

hoss331stang · Mar 23, 2004

Gravel · Mar 23, 2004

Must be the Mr. Gasket Crankcase breathers...

Is it consistent enough that you could drive around for a few days with your timing light hooked up and routed into the car so you can see it? This could give you an idea if the secondary is dropping off.. If it was in your primary you may see it in your tach but not always... Just depends on where its coming from..

Course you need long wires on your timing light, I made sure I got one with long wires when I got mine just for this reason... I did "drive ability" with ford for a long time.. The other thing you can do is wire tie it to the grill below the windshield if needed...

This is just one of many diagnostic tools you can use but if you start here you may eliminate something..

SmockDoiley · Mar 24, 2004

Floats and timing are easy. Start with 10-12 degrees initial and put in the medium springs for a gradual increase in timing that isnt too fast or too slow. Now when you put the blower in put in the fast springs so the timing comes in quick, set initial to like 5 but use the stops that dont allow it to advance more than like 18 degrees so your complete total timing is like 23 degrees. For the floats, remove the screws on the passenger side of the carb where the bowls are. Start the car and let it warm up. Now the screws on the tops of the bowls are for the float adjustment. Just loosen the lock nut and screw in or screw up the adjustment until the fuel is right level with the hole on the side of the bowl. Fuel should just barely be sloshing out of that hole. Too high and you could be flooding the carb, and too low you could be killing it. Understood? Come on man, this stuff is simple trust me. I just bolted my stuff together out of the box, and got it running without an A/F gauge or timing light and the guy who dynoed my car said I must have really done my homework because I was almost right on. I had to laugh to myself and think, If only he knew, LOL!!

t69r00p69 · Mar 24, 2004

your mechanic is to swamped???? GET A NEW MECHANIC!!!!!

I'm sick and tired of this! somebody please help me!!!

hoss331stang

New Member

1986LX2002

SmockDoiley

New Member

hoss331stang

New Member

hoss331stang

New Member

Gravel

Member

SmockDoiley

New Member

t69r00p69

Similar threads

I'm sick and tired of this! somebody please help me!!!

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Member

New Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency