Incredibly weird engine problem. No SEARCH function will help me out!

F

Forced306Stang

New Member
Jan 5, 2006
5
0
0
#1
Here is the car if some of you guys dont remember...

864804544_l.jpg


Its been over a year that i have been on this board... Im in need of help because i have no clue whats wrong with my car, nor does my mechanic who works for ford..

The car originally went in to have the dash, interior panels, heater core, dash wiring harness replaced.. The wiring for the headlights at the switch and dimmer switcher were soo badly melted, also the wires going to the blower motor were fried..... The car has had wiring problems since it was bought... Everything was replaced with an 89 Harness..... The interior is back together and now my blower motor and heat works..... my guy then noticed that the engine harness was in such bad shape sooo that needed to be replaced.. (my IAC never worked for some reason)...... This was replaced with an 89 already mass air harness... also at the same time i sold my S trim to him and we both traded fuel system parts.... i NOW have 24 lb injectors, c and l mass air for 24's, and i lost the Trex pump.....

The car will NOT run right....

Symptoms include... -Start when colds and holds an idle... will not rev up smooth at all and pops out the intake like crazy... The longer the engine is running, WHEN you turn it off, it will be harder to start.. to the point where it WILL not start at all... it will crank and crank and it IS gettting both fuel and spark.... 40 psi at the rail when the key is turned and engine is running.....the injectors do have pulse.... when it is running, it will hold the fuel pressure fine, but when it is turned off, it instantly drops down....
- after it runs a little, the headers glow red..

Now one thing i noticed.... when the car has been running and it is turned off... it will not turn over... itll crank and crank but wont start.... now however.. if i pop the inertia switch or disconnect the wiring going to the pump, the car will crank and start right up and then die when its out of fuel, or it will keep running if the inertia switch is popped back on... This is very weird.... Soo we traced the wiring going to the pump and at the front of the car where it plugs into the main wiring, we found 6 frayed and burnted wires whichw erent even connected going to the fuel pump.... to eliminate possibilities, i bought a new harness that goes from the front of the car, through the quarter panels, to the back of the car to the fuel pump.... that HELPED the problem a little, but not really... its still popping out the intake, headers glowing red, and wont start when hot.....

Were running out of ideas here..... The distributer was pulled out to do the harness swap, and we thought it could be the dist a tooth off, but he checked it 3 times to see... nope....

The only other thing in his mind now is that i have a mechanical engine problem that was not done during the time my car stayed there.... Such as the cam jumping a tooth or my valvetrain is out of wack.....

As much as i hope thats not the case, i dont see HOW my cam would jump a tooth just sitting in a garage.. it dont make sense to me... i brought the car running like a beast there and now it wont run... i just dont get it????

---------------

we changed the EEC 3 times to eliminate that as a possibility...

we switched between 2 distributers to eliminate that

We changed the engine harness twice thinking i got a bad harness again..

tried another mass air meter.... nopeee

i have no more things to try here...

Hopefully someone alot more educated then me can help me out...

thanks guys.. im out of ideas and ill try anythingggg...
 
#7
1990Coupe said:
:OT: dude WHERE THE F HAVE YOU BEEN??? i bought a new stang and sold the subie.... answer you damn im's you b a s t a r d!...

sorry cant help ya on the problem
Click to expand...

I have better plans then an S trim......

But for now i gotta get the car running right as it is...
 
#8
Honestly i thought you sold it, i never see it sitting outside of your house anymore...

on another note.. is your computer still the one that was tuned when you had the blower?? could that be the problem???

pm me with ur # i got a new cell, i wanna show ya the new whip
 
#11
He said he changed the EEC already, so unless he's retarded he took the chip out too.

Double check the coil, man. I put a brand new MSD distributor in my car last year and it **** out on me once the car warmed up enough. It kept starting, running, and then dying. Then it wouldn't crank over again until it was cool enough. Then it'd just die a couple minutes down the road. Put the stock distributor back in and it's been perfect ever since. Worth a shot. Put in a stock distributor and see if it makes a difference.
 
#12
headers are glowing red, wouldnt that indicate a lean condition? try playing with the fuel pressure, i think 24s at 40psi might not be enough fuel, also check to make sure the injectors are fully seated, and you could even pull the plugs too see if its firing on all 8.
 
#13
Headers glow red for only one reason, there’s fuel burning inside. The two main reasons are a rich mixture and late ignition timing - which doesn’t give the fuel enough time to burn inside the combustion chamber.
 
#14
795.0pacecar said:
Headers glow red for only one reason, there’s fuel burning inside. The two main reasons are a rich mixture and late ignition timing - which doesn’t give the fuel enough time to burn inside the combustion chamber.
Click to expand...

And thats the truth! When I first started my engine I had the distributer backwards and all the gas was burning in the headers which got them glowing red hot..
 
#15
795.0pacecar said:
Headers glow red for only one reason, there’s fuel burning inside. The two main reasons are a rich mixture and late ignition timing - which doesn’t give the fuel enough time to burn inside the combustion chamber.
Click to expand...

Yeah i kinda wondered that if it were running lean, WHY do i have to disconnect power to the fuel pump to actually get the car to start??? Its gotta be rich... i just cant figure out why this is happening?

what does popping out of the intake indicate??
 
#17
i agree. Its timing problems.

Need to get it Top dead center COMPRESSION stroke and then set the dizzy in with it aiming at the #1 plug wire on the cap. then make sure the wires are in order.
Here is a nice little guide I made sometime back.
FiringOrder.jpg
 
#18
guy

Im the guy whos doing the work on the car guys. Ive been a ford tech now for alittle over 7 years... ive personally owned about 12 of these fox bodied cars... stock. supercharged. sprayed you name it ive done it.. what joe hasnt told you was that the car came to me with 1 intent... It had a serious electrical problem from day one... so Joe brought it to me to have a new dash installed with heater core, a new body harness and an eec harness which was also damaged during whatever electrical problems he had in the car.. In the time the car was at my house joe ran into money problems and he offered his blower to me ... So i purchased it and swapped parts from my Notchback to his gt.. which were the following.. 24 lb injectors. 75 mm mass air calibrated for 24s and brackets and such not.. I plugged the return line in his oil pan where the return line from the blower went originally.. ( now my car ran absolutly perfect with this parts.. ) all i did was change over parts.. Now im wondering if hes got a custom grind cam and a motor thats built for boost and the car doesnt wanna run correctly on Motor... I have checked multiple times with the timing, fuel psi... vaccume leaks.. etc etc etc... Im for a loss with this car.. Im Im asking for help... if anyone has any serious meaningful ideas that this B tech of A ford dealership has over looked... please let me know... I would also like to add that the v ref signal coming back from joes tps ( green wire ) reads 4.65 volts wot at all times koeo koer doesnt matter... We have tried 2 eec harnesses. 3 eec computers.. and multiple sensors.. I have pin tested every circuit that works with the tps and computer and mass air.. Like i said Im looking for meaningful help to get this car out of my house...

Thanks
mike...
 
#19
red headers can also mean a lean mixture and not always rich. the richer a car is the cooler it runs, correct. all i know is, on my carbed car i had a big intake leak and within 2 or 3 minutes the headers were glowing.
 
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