injector/sputtering ?

sgarlic

Founding Member

Apr 21, 2001

3,085

1

56

Nov 21, 2004

#1

• Nov 21, 2004

• #1

Ok, I've recently been asking a lot of silly questions, and I have yet another. I've got an 88 GT.. mostly stock except for exhaust, gears, and cold air intake.

In the mornings when I crank it up, it starts healthy, then when the idle begins to lower a little after the initial rev, it sputters and stalls. When I start it again, it starts/runs just fine. I'm wondering if it may be time to replace my injectors.. as some of you know I still have the factory 19# ones. Would it be worth it to upgrade to 24# injectors if I have basically no other mods done? I'm in Tucson, AZ so I don't think the "cold" here is much of a factor.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

The Shape

Founding Member

Jan 11, 2002

2,224

8

49

East ARKANSAS Delta

Nov 21, 2004

#2

• Nov 21, 2004

• #2

I wouldn't think that would be injector related. Best thing to do is pull codes and see if anything pops up. My car idles a little rough in the morning as well when it is cold, but cold here in Arkansas is i'm sure much different than cold in Arizona. Could be something as simple as cleaning the IAC.

 

J

jerry beach

Founding Member

May 20, 2002

2,671

0

46

Ocala,FL

Nov 21, 2004

#3

• Nov 21, 2004

• #3

Does it run fine once it is warmed up? If so it may be the ECT sensor, pull codes to see if you get any first, dont just start replacing stuff. the 88 stangs are notorious for having the injectors crap out at about 100,000 mi. Mine did. They were leaking from the weep holes in the plastic tops, its an oval shaped hole. Finally one stopped firing and I had a dead miss. It will run like crap if you put in bigger injectors and dont do anything else. The stock ones supply the correct amount of fuel for a stock setup.

 

sgarlic

Founding Member

Apr 21, 2001

3,085

1

56

Nov 21, 2004

#4

• Nov 21, 2004

• #4

It runs great once it gets warmed up.. and usually except for the first start of the day, it starts just fine. It's always when it's cold. Does the normal rev thing when it starts, then drops to normal, sputters, dies.. start it again, revs and runs fine.

Is there a way to pull the trouble codes without a timing light or a voltmeter? I can "borrow" a multimeter from work but that's about it.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

34

129

Nov 21, 2004

#5

• Nov 21, 2004

• #5

sounds like a plan. i agree with Jerry - 24's would not be a wise choice. you would be shortening the duty cycle more than i would want (i like to see injectors work at ~95% duty cycle).

things are a bit busy this time of year, but FWIW, i can swing by sometime if ya want some help.

good luck.

 

The Shape

Founding Member

Jan 11, 2002

2,224

8

49

East ARKANSAS Delta

Nov 21, 2004

#6

• Nov 21, 2004

• #6

sgarlic said:

It runs great once it gets warmed up.. and usually except for the first start of the day, it starts just fine. It's always when it's cold. Does the normal rev thing when it starts, then drops to normal, sputters, dies.. start it again, revs and runs fine.

Is there a way to pull the trouble codes without a timing light or a voltmeter? I can "borrow" a multimeter from work but that's about it.

Click to expand...

You can pull the codes with out a scaner do a search under jrichker's name he has a tech artilce on it. Also though you can pick up a scanner for about 20 bucks at wal-mart or autozone will scan it for you for free.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

34

129

Nov 21, 2004

#7

• Nov 21, 2004

• #7

The Shape said:

You can pull the codes with out a scaner do a search under jrichker's name he has a tech artilce on it. Also though you can pick up a scanner for about 20 bucks at wal-mart or autozone will scan it for you for free.

Click to expand...

AZ here does not scan obd-I cars, as far as i know. they do sell code readers though. (have not seen readers at wally mart here either).

Sgarlic, remember, if pulling codes w/o a scanner, you will need to use a test light, as your CEL likely does not function.

good luck.

 

sgarlic

Founding Member

Apr 21, 2001

3,085

1

56

Nov 21, 2004

#8

• Nov 21, 2004

• #8

According to the Haynes manual there's supposed to be a connector on the pass. side near the strut tower where I get these codes. There's nothing anywhere under the hood that resembles a connector, except the one where I disconnected the a/c drier from. I think I'll just deal with the stalling until it blows up.

 

sgarlic

Founding Member

Apr 21, 2001

3,085

1

56

Nov 21, 2004

#9

• Nov 21, 2004

• #9

Mines on the driver side. Glad my wife was able to find it and I wasn't. sheesh.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

34

129

Nov 21, 2004

#10

• Nov 21, 2004

• #10

the self test connector is on the driver side. look below the window wiper motor and to the driver side of the brake reservoir. you should see it - it might under some wires.

good luck.

 

The Shape

Founding Member

Jan 11, 2002

2,224

8

49

East ARKANSAS Delta

Nov 21, 2004

#11

• Nov 21, 2004

• #11

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=503233&highlight=pulling+codes


Here you go man look at jrichker's post in that thread. It gives instructions on how to it without the scanner.