Inlet & carb choices

Intake & carb choices

I am just ordering a pair of Edelbrock RPM heads. At the moment I have a Weiand 180 intake manifold ... which I think is an old version of the Stealth. I am thinking of a new intake and carb .. the present Holley 600 has been rebuilt, but is a bit old. Would I be better with the Edelbrock Performer, Performer RPM, or the air gap ?? Is all this *matched power package* stuff something they dreamt up to sell more of their parts ... to frighten folks into thinking they are not going to get the full performance if they use other bits like bolt a Holley on? I was also thinking of ordering a new carb ... the Edelbrock Performer 600 was what I was fancying as I have read several posts on the subject of the old *Edelbrock v Holley* arguement ... but a buddy of mine has just got an Edelbrock Performer for his BB Vette and we found it very easy to tune .. also I like the fact that the jets and rods can be changed with the carb in situ.
Any advice on my combo ?? just for street use .. no track ... yet

DarkBuddha said:

Inlet, huh? We typically call it an intake or intake manifold, but I can work with inlet.

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Hi there Inlet is only a bit of *UK Speak* we can call it what we want, but would you say that I would be as good keeping this old carb rather than replacing it ?? I know that you can't possibly know the wear or useage, but wouldn't I be better with a new carb ??

Thanks for the advice DB. I think I will be sticking with the Weiand and the Holley, but like you suggested get a few parts to tune it ... this is really what I prefer doing ... messing around taking things apart and putting them back together (then seeing how many bits are left over). It isn't really too satisfying I would think just to bolt a new carb on and that's it.
The only reason that I am going down the new heads avenue is that I am convinced that fitting the high lift cam and higher ratio rockers is causing one or more valves to stick, which has been causing the poor performance and making the car very jerky and surging at low speeds. I think that the original valves and guides had kind of worn together at a certain lift ... then when pushed beyond this some sticking may be occuring .... anyway I can't eliminate this by doing what I have done already : engine bored 30 over and rebuilt with new pistons and bearings etc. new msd distributor, 6AL box, 8.5 mm plug leads, new plugs, new msd coil , timing set and reset at all sorts of advances, rebuilt the carb, new carb spacer, INTAKE manifold off and back on to eliminate air leaks .. a good thorough check for any other air leaks. Compressions all cylinders OK .... all that is left is the heads / valves.
If this doesn't cure it I think I will drive it into the sea