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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Installation help for the C&L PLENUM

  • Thread starter Thread starter Freshpl
  • Start date Start date Apr 5, 2004

Freshpl

New Member
Jul 21, 2003
197
0
0
Metro Detroit
Apr 5, 2004
#1
  • Apr 5, 2004
  • #1
I'm installing the C&L Plenum and I can't get the last two screws in they are the screws by the driver's side that connect the round top piece I wish I had a digital camera. I can't get them in I had to cut them and they just won't screw in. I can only get 1/4 of it in should i cut it again? They seem to be going on an angle. I m ready to smash it up Help
 

bergs

Member
Jan 19, 2004
117
0
17
new jersey
Apr 5, 2004
#2
  • Apr 5, 2004
  • #2
everything should bolt up nice, if i were you i would take everything apart and start over
 
C

CottonBurnerz

Banned
May 10, 2003
1,554
0
0
Drink and Drive = Teh Lose
Apr 5, 2004
#3
  • Apr 5, 2004
  • #3
Freshpl said:
I'm installing the C&L Plenum and I can't get the last two screws in they are the screws by the driver's side that connect the round top piece I wish I had a digital camera. I can't get them in I had to cut them and they just won't screw in. I can only get 1/4 of it in should i cut it again? They seem to be going on an angle. I m ready to smash it up Help
Click to expand...

Are you saying that you have to cut those EGR screws when installing new plenum such as C&L? Then you are doing something wrong. Matt (03trublugt) who did the 4 plenum test changed all the plenum with stock screws no problem.

FYI, I snapped mine couple of months ago reinstalling my long tube headers. There's only one holding it but that will soon fixed.. so don't torque them so hard. Mind went side-way and cross threaded.. I was pissed. I have picture of it on my site.

And for the install, I was told to bolt up the EGR plate to the plenum before bolting the plenum onto the intake. It will make the job a lot easier. So I would do that. Hope it works out man.
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
12
79
Dunedin, FL
Apr 5, 2004
#4
  • Apr 5, 2004
  • #4
You really need a deep (10mm I think it was) socket to remove and re-install the rear bolt on the EGR valve. I didn't have one, it was late at night, so out came the hack saw (actually I used just the blade with a rag wrapped around it as a handle) to trim off the long post that had no functional value. Once removed, I ground it down smooth so not to look like a 'hack' job, and it went back together with no problem. When it doubt, take it apart again and, try, try again. Don't overtorque!!!
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
12
79
Dunedin, FL
Apr 5, 2004
#5
  • Apr 5, 2004
  • #5
twogts4us said:
You really need a deep (10mm I think it was) socket to remove and re-install the rear bolt on the EGR valve. I didn't have one, it was late at night, so out came the hack saw (actually I used just the blade with a rag wrapped around it as a handle) to trim off the long post that had no functional value. Once removed, I ground it down smooth so not to look like a 'hack' job, and it went back together with no problem. When it doubt, take it apart again and, try, try again. Don't overtorque!!!
Click to expand...
See attached pic...sorry if it's a bit grainy, but I had to zoom in to show the bolt I think you're referring to. (Now I'm glad I took those before pics!) You can safely trim off the 'post' then fit a regular socket on and remove it. All you really need to do it hack saw halfway thru, then snap it off with a pair of vise grips. Then, if you can, grind down where you cut and snapped so it's smooth and nobody will even be able to tell you hacked at it! I don't close up after pic to prove it, but let me know and I'll post one if ya what. A full size after pic is in the 99+ gallery. Best of luck!
 
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