Installed Aluminum Radiator

1965-Mustang · Jul 24, 2005

I put in my aluminum radiator from Crites Restoration today along with a new water pump, fan and shroud in an effort to solve my overheating problem. I do not believe it solved it however I have not done much problem solving. It seems to just slowly rise in temperature until it overheats. I have not checked the timing with my light yet. Also when I start it I have to keep my foot on the gas slightly until it warms up a little then I can take my foot off. Tomorrow I will look into these things. . .But if its to lean is it as simple as just adjusting the idle screw? Then I should time it to a few degrees before TDC?

Crites Restoration was alright to deal with. Had quick responsive emails and the rad/shroud was really nice. It is a 19"X22" radiator with a fiberglass shroud. I had to trim off the end of my battery tray to fit the radiator which I guess is ok since I want to move my Optima red to the trunk anyways sometime. I bought the fan from summit, it is an all steel 6 blade 15" flex-a-lite fan. Got a 13 lb cap for the setup also. The water pump is a replacment from Autozone. I also plan on hiding most of the wires and removing the red covers. . .

Well here is what my car and the setup looks like:

My car:
View attachment 508830

The Radiator:
View attachment 508832

Bottom Mount:
View attachment 508834

View attachment 508837

View attachment 508839

View attachment 508841

latamud · Jul 24, 2005

Maybe you have a bad thermostat. That might cause it to overheat.

347Fastback · Jul 24, 2005

Could be head gasket!!!! After all the work you have done for the cooling system the problem should be gone!

iskwezm · Jul 25, 2005

is that a larger then stock radiator???How much was it???

Edbert · Jul 25, 2005

Nice setup, you my friend, are in need of an electric fan next

notny41 · Jul 25, 2005

your idle prob could be a vac leak - spray some carb ceaner around the base of your carb and see if the rpms change.

Did you replace your thermostat like latamud said?

Pbum5 · Jul 25, 2005

Not related but you should put a breather cap on your driver side valve cover.

Edbert · Jul 25, 2005

If you have a vacuum leak it could be causing your engine to run too lean and a lean condition will exacerbate your overheating.

1965-Mustang · Jul 25, 2005

Thanks for all the replies. Yes I had replaced the thermostat with a 180 degree piece from autozone. I thought maybe it could be defective and I should get a 160 degree high flow or something and spend a little more. Yes I do believe it is a bigger than stock radiator at 19"x22". I will try the vacuum leak check. Also with a head gasket out how would I check for that? I think I saw before that if it was blown the coolant in the radiator would bubble and spew up when the cap was off? I will try all these and come back. Thanks

grego37 · Jul 25, 2005

be sure to top off your water/coolant after the thermostat opens.

With that radiator, you should be able to bump up to a 16# rad. cap, this will actually raise the boiling temp.

1965-Mustang · Jul 25, 2005

Ok first I turned the idle screw on my carb until it would run without my foot on the gas, so now the screw is in more than it should be I think. Then I sprayed all around the base of the carb and then into it. And nothing happened. Before when I would spray into it the engine would slow down. . . I also checked the timing with my light and found the marks are really worn and could hardly see where it was but I am pretty sure its like 5 or 6 degrees before TDC. . .Also now when I mash the gas going down the road it bogs. It stays at 210 degrees with my foot into the gas revving the engine and stays at 210 when going down the road at about 25 mph.

Oh yea...I have a new 18 lb cap but thought that ws a little much. . .? So I put the 13 pound one on instead. And I'll check to top it off as I had not.

Well I got to get to real work now. . .
Thanks.

grego37 · Jul 25, 2005

Id re-visit the timing then play with the carb.

If you can find the TDC mark on the Balancer, mark it with a fine line using white-out, or chaulk. Then us a timing light with a zero dial.
Im not sure what your timing should be, you may want to look into that first, and I believe you're supposed to dis-connect the vac. advance when checking initial timing.
once you set your timing the adjust carb.

dennis112 · Jul 25, 2005

I believe that the stock 65' radiator support opening is a mere 17" wide. Did you open up the support to allow air to all the cooling surface (fins) of your radiator? Every bit will help.

iskwezm · Jul 25, 2005

dennis112 said:
I believe that the stock 65' radiator support opening is a mere 17" wide. Did you open up the support to allow air to all the cooling surface (fins) of your radiator? Every bit will help.

i might have to do that,my fresh engine isnt cooling down yet(only 50 miles)

1965-Mustang · Jul 26, 2005

No I did not cut the support. The fins however seem to fit rather nicely in the opening. The tanks are on the sides if that makes a difference? Are fresh rebuilt engines supposed to run hotter? Because this one has just been rebuilt. I will recheck the timing today. Then I'll mess with the carb some more. I have a speed demon 575 and do not know a whole lot about them but I believe I had messed with the main idle circuit or something which on the demons is four different screws. I'll read the manual on that before trying it.

Edbert · Jul 26, 2005

They might run a LITTLE hot when they are tight prior to seating the rings well, but that wont last for long, maybe the first tank of gas or so and wont be a huge difference anyhow.

iskwezm · Jul 26, 2005

Edbert said:
They might run a LITTLE hot when they are tight prior to seating the rings well, but that wont last for long, maybe the first tank of gas or so and wont be a huge difference anyhow.

it was running at 210+ durring the day and shot up 235 and runs at 190=200 at night.I have a Be Cool and 2 fans.

ForceFed70 · Jul 26, 2005

so crusing down the street at 25mph and it stays hot?

If that's the case, you can rule out radiator, shroud, and fan.

Give us a little more detail as to the symptoms. Does it overheat at idle? What about crusing at 25mph and 50mph? Is there anything you can do to bring the temp down asside from turning the engine off?

iskwezm · Jul 26, 2005

70_Nitrous_Eater said:
so crusing down the street at 25mph and it stays hot?

If that's the case, you can rule out radiator, shroud, and fan.

Give us a little more detail as to the symptoms. Does it overheat at idle? What about crusing at 25mph and 50mph? Is there anything you can do to bring the temp down asside from turning the engine off?

at idle,it will take a while to reach 180,then s l o w l e y climb further.while driving it will reach 210 after a while and hover +- 210,but it has been around 100* here.Never spits water or overheats,I have timing at about 36*,was told this is too much.How do you set initial timing?

ForceFed70 · Jul 26, 2005

iskwezm said:
at idle,it will take a while to reach 180,then s l o w l e y climb further.while driving it will reach 210 after a while and hover +- 210,but it has been around 100* here.Never spits water or overheats,I have timing at about 36*,was told this is too much.How do you set initial timing?

100* is pretty hot...

Might be time to look into a pusher style electric fan to put in front of your rad. You can operate it manually with a switch for hot days..

36* is fairly typical for a performance tuned small-block.

Initial timing is set by twisting your distributor while measureing the timing with your timing light. Do it at idle with the vacum hose pulled off of your distributor (block it so you don't have a vacum leak).

Generally you want initial timing to be about 10*-12*

Installed Aluminum Radiator

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