already got a pusher and a puller.70_Nitrous_Eater said:100* is pretty hot...
Might be time to look into a pusher style electric fan to put in front of your rad. You can operate it manually with a switch for hot days..
36* is fairly typical for a performance tuned small-block.
Initial timing is set by twisting your distributor while measureing the timing with your timing light. Do it at idle with the vacum hose pulled off of your distributor (block it so you don't have a vacum leak).
Generally you want initial timing to be about 10*-12*
sounds like were both there.I had custom carb built,so i know its running rich(built for the blower,not on yet)but I HATE A HOT RUNNING CAR.I went through this with my .060 289 now again.1965-Mustang said:It seems I have a similar situation as you iskwezm. It will slowly rise in temp until 180 and the t-stat will open and it will stay around 190-200 then slowly rise. It stays at 200-210 going 25 mph and maybe a little lower at 50 mph but have not gone that fast for more than a few minutes yet. Right now I am thinking it is just running to lean. I cant get a consistant idle rpm and when I mash the gas at idle it will try to stall but will stay running. If I mash it twice quickly it dies. I could not seem to fix it by adjusting the demons 4-corner idle circuit or idle screw either. Do these carbs have a slow speed needle or anything? Is it the squirter? I will also look at a new fuel filter if that could be it? However I did get it to not have a stumble if I mashed the gas at about 1500-2000 rpms. I am taking it to the shop in two days but am trying to fix some of it myself. I also got the timing set at 10 degrees before TDC with my light and no pinging so I think that is fine.
i doubt it,if they were backwards,it would overheat very fast.Plus the long block was assembled by a race engine building compny.Thats a beginners mistake.It just heats up,not instantly.paul302 said:the head gaskets may be installed backwards.
stock chrome pulleys,I turned the fans off on the freeway doing about65 and it ran a little warmer.grego37 said:if you dont have an issue with running too hot at idle , or under 25mph. I'd take off the pusher fan and see if it helps the situation. It might be restricting the air flow at 25mph+
Do you know the dia. of your crank pulley and waterpump pulley?
You dont have underdrive pulleys on it , do you?
possible,but a vac leak will also cause a rolling idle that wont adjust.1965-Mustang said:This is a symtom of a vacuum leak correct? Looks like I will go test some more with carb cleaner.
Actually March does a water pump pulley for extra cooling.After all the pissed off customers from dead batteries and over heating,they decided to fix their own mistake.grego37 said:.
If you're intrerested whats best for your app. I'd call Jones Racing Products, or Stewart components, just dont call March.
naw,just a fresh thick gasket1965-Mustang said:I will take off the carb and replace the gasket then...Should not be that hard and great if it fixes things! Should I use gasket sealer on the carb gasket?
iskwezm said:sounds like were both there.I had custom carb built,so i know its running rich(built for the blower,not on yet)but I HATE A HOT RUNNING CAR.I went through this with my .060 289 now again.
iskwezm said:Well i got my core support cut out and radiator mocked up,just need to weld tabs tomorrow and figure out the hose lengths.
Man i hope thise works,or at least makes it better
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