Installed MM caster camber plates today Pics

CottonBurnerz · Jul 26, 2004

Took about 3 hours total. Install is pretty straight foward. i'm glad I didn't have to lower the A-arm at all

Hardest part was the drilling. It was a pain but I managed some how

For the washers that they've provided. I used 2 big and 1 small below the frame and 1 small on top. No clearance issue what-so-ever. For those of you who have MM c/c plates, how did you arrange your washers?

It makes the engine bay less stock here are some pics.. any questions just shoot while the info is fresh in my mind. enjoy..

my work station

passenger side was on first :

Then driver side:

twogts4us · Jul 26, 2004

Nice, Cotton! How do you like the shock/spring combo you've got? Excuse my ignorance but, what did you have to drill - the rivets?

Purebred · Jul 26, 2004

Look good, don't they? I love mine

Purebred · Jul 26, 2004

Forgot - I didn't do my install, so I'm not sure about the washers. You're going to get an alignment next, right?

CottonBurnerz · Jul 26, 2004

twogts4us said:
Nice, Cotton! How do you like the shock/spring combo you've got? Excuse my ignorance but, what did you have to drill - the rivets?

Yea I drilled the rivet out first thing.. but that's not the problem. Check out the 3rd picture.. I have to drill an extra hole because the MM plate is 4 bolts version. Stock form only has 3 holes..

pureberd said:
Forgot - I didn't do my install, so I'm not sure about the washers. You're going to get an alignment next, right?

Yup.. I'm going to go for an alignment... I wasted $70 next time from GoodYear of some "the car is lowered.. we can't warrant that" BS.. This time I'm going to Sears

stallion98gt · Jul 26, 2004

nice..that's my next mod...

millatime · Jul 26, 2004

twogts4us said:
Excuse my ignorance but, what did you have to drill - the rivets?

the mm plates are 4 bolt plates, which gives you the option to use them with 4 bolt coil overs...the 4th bolt isn't necessary with stock struts because they only have 3 bolts on top

Marks5.0! · Jul 26, 2004

looks good

decoy562 · Jul 27, 2004

Looks good. How do you do adjustments to caster/camber with those?

btolenti · Jul 27, 2004

shouldn't you have more spacers on top than on the bottom? I would think that would give you more strut travel since you have lowering springs?

stang976 · Jul 27, 2004

they look nice! i wanted to get the Hotchkiss?? versions snce they do not rust like other brands (so ive heard).but those look real good

1fast03pony · Jul 27, 2004

btolenti said:
shouldn't you have more spacers on top than on the bottom? I would think that would give you more strut travel since you have lowering springs?

I have the steeda 4 bolt aluminum plates and koni struts but when i installed them there wasnt enough thread to put the strut bolt on the top with the top spacer, so i took it off. does it really matter a few mm of strut travel?

mity2 · Jul 27, 2004

I should have went with MM C/C plate...

jfranci3 · Jul 27, 2004

Cotton, throw in some more Caster! That's why you paid for the CC plates. Right now your have them at full fwd, pull them to at least 1/2 back. When you go for an alignment, have the guy set them to 4.5 deg or so.

Also, let the alignment guy know the tops can be switched for more camber. I didn't tell my guy this, and I ended up with only .8 deg in my alignment (03 cobra struts prevented the normal 1.5 allowance).

Further - have the alignment guy put some marks in the plates for the alignment settings using a punch. These may move over time, but you'll be able to go to 'track setting' (lots of camber) back to street settings easier.

GDawg · Jul 27, 2004

Looks good!

Here's a shot of mine.

I don't remember how many spacers I put in and where but I tried to keep my struts extended as much as possible without them hitting the hood (to accommidate the amount I lowered my car).

CottonBurnerz · Jul 27, 2004

jfranci3 said:
Cotton, throw in some more Caster! That's why you paid for the CC plates. Right now your have them at full fwd, pull them to at least 1/2 back. When you go for an alignment, have the guy set them to 4.5 deg or so.

Also, let the alignment guy know the tops can be switched for more camber. I didn't tell my guy this, and I ended up with only .8 deg in my alignment (03 cobra struts prevented the normal 1.5 allowance).

Further - have the alignment guy put some marks in the plates for the alignment settings using a punch. These may move over time, but you'll be able to go to 'track setting' (lots of camber) back to street settings easier.

I'll be sure to tell the guy them about the top being switchable. I don't know what you mean about throw in some more caster though

About the washers.. you guys don't think I can do a proper alignment with the washers being positioned like that? My car didn't drop that much with steeda springs though..

GDawg · Jul 27, 2004

CottonBurnerz said:
I'll be sure to tell the guy them about the top being switchable.

From looking at your pictures, you already have the "orientation" of the base plate in the the correct position for maximum negative camber which is correct.

CottonBurnerz said:
I don't know what you mean about throw in some more caster though

It looks like the plate on the passenger side is about 1/2 and 1/2 but the plate on the driver's side looks like it's pulled all the way forward (toward the front of the car) making for maximum positive caster. (I edited this because I had it backwards... see MM description ---> C/C adjustment ) The alignment shop will correct it. In other words, the base plate that adusts forward and backwards is sitting with the bolts center in the slots on the passenger side but on the driver's side the bolts are all the way at the back of the slots. They should be closer to center.

CottonBurnerz said:
About the washers.. you guys don't think I can do a proper alignment with the washers being positioned like that? My car didn't drop that much with steeda springs though..

I think you'll probably be fine. The whole of idea of that adjustment is so that the struts don't "bottom out" that's why you should try to extend them more with the spacers to accommidate the lowering of the car.

CottonBurnerz · Jul 27, 2004

GDawg said:
It looks like the plate on the passenger side is about 1/2 and 1/2 but the plate on the driver's side looks like it's pulled all the way forward (toward the front of the car) making for maximum positive caster. (I edited this because I had it backwards... see MM description ---> C/C adjustment ) The alignment shop will correct it. In other words, the base plate that adusts forward and backwards is sitting with the bolts center in the slots on the passenger side but on the driver's side the bolts are all the way at the back of the slots. They should be closer to center.

Well I will take the car to be aligned anyway, so I just bolt the plate up anywhere I want... Thanks for all the info though

03gtmustang · Jul 27, 2004

I got the chrome MM c/c plates that Im going to install myself then take to get an alignment. My question is after I get them bolted up wont it leave a mark on the chrome where the bolts were after they are moved? I dont want marks all over my chrome.

jfranci3 · Jul 27, 2004

03gtmustang said:
I got the chrome MM c/c plates that Im going to install myself then take to get an alignment. My question is after I get them bolted up wont it leave a mark on the chrome where the bolts were after they are moved? I dont want marks all over my chrome.

I'd call MM on that one, but probably yes. They may be easy to clean up though. Is it actual chrome or powercoated chrome powdercoat?

Installed MM caster camber plates today Pics

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