Installing clutch, any tips????

buy a can of PB blaster

use it liberally

get a 12point wrench on the driveshaft bolts and use your feet to force them loose.

get some help with taking the transmission down...it gets heavy fast.

I hope you don't have long tubes.

take a look at the rear main seal once you're in there

ensure to get your flywheel resurfaced

Put thread sealant on your flywheel bolts.

Perhaps replace your pilot bearing.

Perhaps replace your throwout bearing.

Perhaps replace your throwout bearing retainer.

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Torque specs:

flywheel housing-to-block = 38-55 lb-ft

flywheel bolts = 75-85 lb-ft (with sealant)

clutch-to-flywheel = 12-24 lb-ft (tighten evenly)

trans-to-flywheel housing = 45-65 lb-ft

drain plug = 12-22 lb-ft (with sealant)

shift lever-to-trans = 23-32 lb-ft

driveshaft = 71-95 lb-ft (plus locktite)

Rick

Removal

CAUTION:
Under no circumstances should a prying instrument such as a screwdriver or a pry bar be used to install or remove the clutch release lever cable (7535) from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft (7506) as damage to cable may occur.

1. Lift clutch pedal (7519) to its uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward, unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward. Refer to Clutch Release Cable, Removal and Installation, «Section 08-02».

2. Raise vehicle on a hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

3. Remove clutch release lever dust shield (7513).

4. Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release lever.

5. Remove retaining clip and remove clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing (6392).

6. Remove starter motor (11002) from flywheel housing.

7. Remove bolts that secure engine rear plate to front lower part of flywheel housing.

8. Remove transmission. Refer to «Section 07-03». Remove bolts that retain flywheel housing to cylinder block (6010). Move flywheel housing back far enough to clear clutch pressure plate (7563) and remove.

9. Remove clutch release lever from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring is disengaged from pivot.

10. Remove clutch release hub and bearing (7548) from clutch release lever.

11. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark clutch pressure plate and flywheel (6375) so that clutch pressure plate can be installed in its original position. Loosen six clutch pressure plate retaining bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc (7550) from flywheel.


Installation

CAUTION:
The clutch pedal must be lifted to disengage the adjusting mechanism during clutch release lever cable installation. Failure to do so will result in damage to the self-adjuster mechanism.

1. Position clutch disc and clutch pressure plate assembly on flywheel. Three flywheel clutch pressure plate dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate. Bent, damaged or missing dowels must be replaced. Start clutch pressure plate retaining bolts but do not tighten. Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.

2. Align clutch disc using Clutch Aligner T74P-7137-K inserted in pilot bearing (7600). To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight. Then tighten clutch pressure plate bolts to 40-50 N-m (30-37 lb-ft) for 3.8L or 24-32 N-m (18-24 lb-ft) for 5.0L. Remove alignment tool.

3. Apply a light film of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or XG-1-K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B to:

l Outside diameter of transmission main drive gear bearing retainer (7050).

l Clutch release lever and anti-rattle spring where they contact clutch release hub and bearing.

l Clutch release lever stud (7B602), mating release lever pocket and cable ball pocket.

Fill grease groove of clutch release hub and bearing with same grease. Clean all excess grease from inside bore of the clutch release hub and bearing. Otherwise, excess grease will be forced onto spline by transmission main drive gear bearing retainer, and will contaminate clutch disc.

4. Install clutch release hub and bearing to clutch release lever.

5. Install clutch release shaft (7515) and clutch release hub and bearing to flywheel housing.

6. Inspect flywheel housing dowel holes for misalignment and wear.

7. Make certain that flywheel housing and cylinder block mounting surfaces are clean and that flywheel housing to block dowels (6397) are in good condition. Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.

8. Install flywheel housing to cylinder block. Tighten bolts to 38-52 N-m (28-38 lb-ft) for 3.8L or 52-74 N-m (38-55 lb-ft) for 5.0L.

9. Install transmission to flywheel housing. Refer to «Section 07-03».

10. Install bolts that secure engine rear plate to front lower part of flywheel housing.

11. Connect clutch release lever cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.

12. Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release lever. Install clutch release lever dust shield.

13. Install starter motor.

14. Lower vehicle.

15. Install clutch release lever cable by lifting clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft. Then, push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft. Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable. Refer to «Section 08-02».

Nice posts.

I think there is a how-to by 5Spd Gt in the "How-To" sticky also. He listed part numbers and such as well.

Good luck.

For $90 buy a new flywheel... keep the momentum, tear it down and put it all back without running to the machine shop.

The dowel pins in the flywheel push through from the other side then tap them back into the new FW with a hammer. We first tried to twist mine out with pliers.. DUH...

The KC clutch does not come with a clutch alinment tool

don't get the pilot bearing puller from advance auto... instead measure the diameter of the pilot bearing (eitehr on the alignment tool or the pilot bearing) and get a rod that is slightly smaller than and plenty of grease. it needs to be a tight fit. we acutally used some electrical tape to build up the diameter on a punch we had handy. worked great.

jsut have a buddy, take your time... it is easy jsut a lot of small steps...

oh another thing we goofed on, make sure you put the thin steel plate back onto the car before the flywheel goes on... we didn't... had to go back and take off the clutch and flywheel...

I ended up taking my transmission off a good amount of times for some stupid mistakes so heres a few tips from me.

- When you do the rear main seal, instead of prying it out. Get the smallest drill bit you can find and drill a small hole on each side of the seal. Take some wood screws and screw them in a little bit and then take the back of your hammer and pry it out. It sure beats the heck out of spending a few hours scraping the surface trying to get it out.

- Before your done and need to put the transmission back on. Do yourself a favor and take a bellhousing-to-transmission bolts down to homedepot and buy some extra decent long sized ones. Cut the heads off 2 of them and screw them on the top of the bellhousing. This will help you guide the transmission in from the top and will save a lot of hassle.

- And of course the biggest thing is keeping everything as clean as possible. Use brake cleaner to clean all surfaces multiple times. Don't take it out of the package and install because you think it's clean. I know this seems stupid to mention, but I've seen people do it, and i've done it on my first clutch install. I also use a pair of rubber gloves when installing the clutch to help prevent any oils or grease getting onto anything from my hands.

I would also just spend the extra $90 and get a new flywheel. Or if you have the money an aluminum one. Sometimes when flywheels they have a different texture and I hear once in a while a problem with it mating to the clutch. But then again I don't hear that much about it. But if you run into problems down the road the flywheel might be suspected, thats why I would just get one now because you don't want to rip everything back apart to replace it. Think of it this way, I used a resurfaced flywheel and when I had problems with my SPEC clutch they wouldn't do anything because I didn't use one of their flywheels.

Good luck with everything.

yellowstang1994 said:

- Before your done and need to put the transmission back on. Do yourself a favor and take a bellhousing-to-transmission bolts down to homedepot and buy some extra decent long sized ones. Cut the heads off 2 of them and screw them on the top of the bellhousing. This will help you guide the transmission in from the top and will save a lot of hassle.

Click to expand...

I believe that they are metric. I do this, except that I use the bottom 2... never tried the top 2, perhaps it works better.

I always (the 2 times I put it in) need a helper to get the trans in. It will never go all the way in, it gets hung up at the bellhousing. A helper is needed to push in the clutch so the disk can float and allow the trans to go all the way in. Of course, you'll need to have the clutch cable installed...

My spec clutch came with an alignment tool, FWIW.

Rick

Good stuff guys, Im doing my clutch in the next few weeks.

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now a perfect time to get a steel throwout bearing retainer if you dont already have one