i heard that since these a ford gears, that you can just pull the old ones out and swap these in without reshimming or taking measurements. is this true. thanks. couldn't i just use bluing or something to show the wear pattern and match it up to the old gears or a book's diagram
installing ford 3.55 gears without measureing
- Thread starter dastang2
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86mustang5.oh
New Member
rd
Founding Member
The Ford Gears seem to have a reputation of being able to do that. I set up one set of 7.5 in gears that way, using the stock pinion shim and they work well. I did measure backlash and have adjusted it twice, down to about .009 or so. This is the SVO 4.10 set in my 82, which I installed with a new SVO traction lock in about 1995.
I have also heard this. A friend of mine has swapped from OEM 2.73s, to FMS 3.55s, to FMS 3.73s, then FMS 4.10s without ever measuring anything and never any gear whine or any problem with the gearsets. I say go for it.
This thread is sending me into a tailspin. I am wanting to get gears installed and have been disappointed in the price of labor ($375). This is to replace the gears (3:55) and install new bearings, seals, shims....... I thought all the extra stuff was necessary in order to do it "right".
I am wrong? What is the point of the new bearings and stuff if all I really want is to start a little quicker with some new gears (I have 2:73)?
I am wrong? What is the point of the new bearings and stuff if all I really want is to start a little quicker with some new gears (I have 2:73)?
The bearings and seals are good to replace while you're in there.... To replace those you will need a press and a slide hammer to get the axle bearings out.
TheBocSez
New Member
Thats how I installed my Ford 4.10's. Pulled out the 2.73's keeping the bearing caps and shims together to put back on the same sides. Threw the 4.10s in, they were used and the old pinion bearing was still pressed on the 4.10's threw the stock shims and all back in and was done. No whining or noises and has worked find for about 10000 miles now.
MdntRanger50
Member
I did this with a 7.5 one time went from 3:45 to used 4:10 gears without measuring. I did reuse the shims that were in the rearend that the 4:10 gears came out of though. I checked the mesh pattern with some gear marking compound and it looked good so I ran them without any problems.
jackchan
New Member
the key to this is reusing the old pinon shim or one the exact same thickness........and also when doing this use a new crushsleeve with new pinion nut. IF the "crush sleeve" is set correctly you shouldnt have anyproblem......I've set up more than 40 sets of gears without any problems.....no matter the gear. Richmond, Precision gear, Motive gear, FRPP gears....doesnt matter. Again I say, the key is using the same thickness shims behind the pinion bearing.....and set up your drag on your pinion nut "collar" to be between 16 inch lbs to 23 inch lbs of torque. When I say this I mean so when you spin your round collar that your drive shaft bolts to it has 16 to 23 inch lbs of torque to rotate the collar.
one day I'm gonna do an article on this and post it on my website.
Ben
one day I'm gonna do an article on this and post it on my website.
Ben
302RollinHard
New Member
Just to be the Devil's advocate, while you got all that stuff out of there, make sure to check everything and replace carrier bearings, etc if needed. No point in changing just gears and shorting yourself. I would assume if it is an honest shop if it is charging $375 (with you providing ring & pinion) they would be planning on replacing axle/carrier bearings, perhaps even a rebuild for that price.
Backlash for a street car and a race car is different....and Fords tolerances are all over the place from what I have seen.
For comparison sake I charge $200 LABOR ONLY to install and set-up new gears, bearings and seals are extra usually around $100 in parts, I'll rebuild the carrier with the extra clutch for another $60 Labor, $40 in parts.
For comparison sake I charge $200 LABOR ONLY to install and set-up new gears, bearings and seals are extra usually around $100 in parts, I'll rebuild the carrier with the extra clutch for another $60 Labor, $40 in parts.
rd
Founding Member
After doing this several times, if possible, I do not change the carrier bearings, etc. If they are in good shape, there's no reason to change them. The pinion bearings are different. The inner has to be pressed off and on, and to get the oem shim, so it is subject to being damaged during that activity. I usually have another one handy just in case.
But lately, I've used it over also.
Bottom, line, if I was starting with a new carrier, I'd probably get new bearings. Otherwise, re-se.
I have also decided not to collect this stuff, so if I can use it, and not just have it stuffed in the garage, that's a plus these days.
But lately, I've used it over also.
Bottom, line, if I was starting with a new carrier, I'd probably get new bearings. Otherwise, re-se.
I have also decided not to collect this stuff, so if I can use it, and not just have it stuffed in the garage, that's a plus these days.
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