Installing fuel pump, Anything else I should replace while I am in there? thanx

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Not that I can think of, unless your sender is jacked. Do have a new tank grommet on hand though.

Good luck.
 
Fuel pump weird noise / no-start

Today after doing some highway driving, i went to the mall and shut off my car. i tried to start it again a couple minutes later but would start and promptly die. fuel pressure at prime was under 20 psi, and the fuel pump made a weird whizzrrrrrr noise whenever the key was turned on.

i had it towed home (that was around 4) and i just tried it now and primed ok, fuel pump noise was normal, and it started fine. wtf? :mad:

btw it is a 255 lph pump from TREperformance and yes i know ive heard bad things about them. i thought the hose had blown off the pump, inside the tank. but now it works...what should i check? i just filled the tank today. :bang:
 
For Superhuaman:

You could have gotten some bad gas,
Your fuel pump relay might have gotten to hot or is going bad and is causing a problem, or your pump may just suck and is trying to crap out on you, your filter may be clogged, you might not have had enough voltage going to the pump. Any number of things could be wrong here. Drive it around again for a while and get it nice and heated up and then turn the car off for a few minutes and see if it does it again.
 
oops i thought i started a new thread. :bang: oh well
my thread can be found here:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=6532771
its not bad gas, i always go to that place...and the pump definitely had voltage, its not an electrical problem, the fuel pressure on prime was too low. im definitely looking at the pump. something would not let it build up pressure. im guessing that the aeromotive fpr didnt crap out, so that leaves the pump. what pump should i get instead?
 
When you change the fuel pump, one of the key items is the condition of the electrical splices that connect the fuel pump's electrical power input to the rest of the car's electrical system. I have seen the quick connects show definite signs of overheating. The quality of the insulation around the splices in the wire was also showing damage. If an electrical spark occurs inside the gas tank, your Mustang (and maybe you too) could be history. Look very carefully at the wiring and splices and consider the best way to connect things. I ended up soldering some new wires to the brass rivets/tabs on the tank mount. Then I crimped new terminals on the wires where the slip on connectors mated with the fuel pump. Some high quality heat shrink tubing might be a good thing to have handy.

Some soldering tips: http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7
 
jrichker said:
When you change the fuel pump, one of the key items is the condition of the electrical splices that connect the fuel pump's electrical power input to the rest of the car's electrical system. I have seen the quick connects show definite signs of overheating. The quality of the insulation around the splices in the wire was also showing damage. If an electrical spark occurs inside the gas tank, your Mustang (and maybe you too) could be history. Look very carefully at the wiring and splices and consider the best way to connect things. I ended up soldering some new wires to the brass rivets/tabs on the tank mount. Then I crimped new terminals on the wires where the slip on connectors mated with the fuel pump. Some high quality heat shrink tubing might be a good thing to have handy.

Some soldering tips: http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7


Jrichker....Thanx for always looking out.
 
mac-gt said:
What was the answer to the question about where to get the tank grommet???
Dealer (20 bucks or so, depending upon region and how much the parts-guy likes you), or resto houses (LRS, et al).
 
i replaced everything when i did the pump 6 mo - 1 yr ago. new pump, tank, sending unit, filler pipe grommet, lock rings, o-rings, everything but the wiring outside of the tank, and the fuel pump hanger and fuel lines (i did replace one of these later, that i had broken as a result of installing 5.0 fuel lines).
 
HISSIN50 said:
Dealer (20 bucks or so, depending upon region and how much the parts-guy likes you), or resto houses (LRS, et al).
:eek:

$20 bucks for a rubber grommet. I paid $5 ea. at the dealer for two. You HAVE to change the grommet or the tank WILL leak. Every tank I have taken apart needed a new grommet. They tend to stretch from the gas.

Make sure you clean the surface where the grommet goes, wire brush the terminals and flush the tank completly out. You definatly do not want to have to take that tank down again. I've been there a while back.

Chris
 
Chris, I simply posted the going rate at the local dealer here. I don't think it's out of line with the normal price people pay - it's your price that's unusually low :nice: .

Some years back the grommets were pretty cheap but after the rubber shortage, just like with alum DS's, the price of the grommets went up. :D
(J/K. But the price did used to be quite a bit less).
 
HISSIN50 said:
Chris, I simply posted the going rate at the local dealer here. I don't think it's out of line with the normal price people pay - it's your price that's unusually low :nice: .

Some years back the grommets were pretty cheap but after the rubber shortage, just like with alum DS's, the price of the grommets went up. :D
(J/K. But the price did used to be quite a bit less).


Sorry, It has been a while since I bought a set. I did not know they went up that much.