Installing lowering springs

yeah get a spring compressor, it will make things easier, I've taken my springs out twice in the front without one it can be done but they do have alot of pressure and it's a pain in the ass
 
The springs in the back aren't the problem... It's the ones up front that are a pain in the @$$.

Also, it's worth mentioning that you should get some C/C plates and Offset rack bushings to realign the front tire geometry and the tie rod ends.
 
here's a dumb question for you guys.

When I bought the car the guy threw in a set of BBK lowering springs. 2 are short the other two are fairly tall. Which go uo front and which go out back? I'm guessing the shorter ones go up front and the taller ones out back.l
 
Morales said:
here's a dumb question for you guys.

When I bought the car the guy threw in a set of BBK lowering springs. 2 are short the other two are fairly tall. Which go uo front and which go out back? I'm guessing the shorter ones go up front and the taller ones out back.l
you're correct..... taller in rear, shorter in front. there should also be a stamp such as 4444.44r or 4444.44f..... the r stands for rear, f stands for front.
 
The fronts will also have more coils and are the same diameter top to bottom. The rears have the pigtailed last coil.

I have never had to use a compressor for fixed rate springs. I have used "C" springs, Steedas, MAC's, Jamex etc. Variable rate will require a compressor and are quite a bit more of a pain to install. I can install a set of fixed rate springs in about an hour and a half. The Eibach pro-kit springs in my 90 took me the better part of a day trying to get the compressor to cooperate. Rears never take more than about 15-20 minutes and wont require a compressor but a prybar is sometimes handy.