Installing o/r x-pipe tomorrow, quick Qs?

astronut1885

astronut1885

Founding Member
Jan 31, 2002
1,899
4
39
Assonet, MA
#1
Hey guys. I just snagged a set of "tuned-length" shorty headers and an O/R X-pipe, all BBK, from a local Stanger for $200. I want to install the X by the end of the weekend, but I have a few quick questions.
1) I read something somewhere about a NAPA bolt kit that makes life easier, but can't find it again. Anyone who knows what this is all about, please chime in.
2) Will I need 02 extenders? I have an X cal II already programmed, so no MIL elims, but are the bungs in the same place, or do I need to buy/make extensions?
3) something about an H/X pipe gasket? Never had one on my 5.0s please fill me in.
4) Any other tips to make it go easier?

I may have access to a lift later in the weekend, but I'm considering just putting it up on my ramps and going for it. I used to be able to swap H pipes on my 87 in like 45 minutes alone with a floor jack and hand tools, so I know the basic idea. I'm just finding that everything on these cars becomes a headache. I'm definitely having a shop do the headers, because dropping the K member is not my idea of a good time. Anyway, educate me. :nice:
 
#2
IIRC, only the 04s needed an extension for the 02 sensor.

About the gaskets, there is one exhaust gasket on the drivers side H pipe, the one on the right is like a ball and socket design.

I dont know anything about a Napa bolt kit, but i dont know what you need it for, installation is as easy as it gets.. bolts go off, X pipe goes in. bolts go back on



OH, by the way, i was considering getting 285 40 18s for the rear of my mustang like you did, I saw some pictures after you isntalled it and i think it looks good.

How do you like it? i checked the overall diameter, and a 285 40 18 is as big as some 20" wheels, does your car sit like it's jacked up or anything like that?

Also- how many fingers of wheel gap do you have in the rear now? and how many did you have when you had the stock tire/ wheels?
and if you wouldn't mind, could you send me some pictures, showing the driver and passenger side of the car, towards the rear, on level ground, not on grass or anything, and some of the rear, when you get the chance some time? i'd really appreciate it,
I tried searching, but your like the only person i have seen run that tire size on a New Edge

Thanks!
 
#3
I dunno, it was something about a gap on one side, or some crap like that with the bolts.. It figures I've got the year that needs extension. Maybe i can just soder in the extra length ( I'm handy with that). It looks similar to my old cars, just more cramped, which seems to be the theme with these cars. Headers were a 3 hour job before, now they're a 300 dollar job :nonono:
 
#6
CobraRed: Good thing I didn't ask that lol. I know it's not the greatest sound, and I eventually plan on a Prochamber, but the price was right. I saw another 04 with no tune, 87 octane, CAI, an SLP x pipe and SLP exhaust make 250RWHP to my 228. I want the power now, I'll worry about perfecting the sound later. I'm piping it through stock tubing with weld-in flows, so it shouldn't be too bad, but down the line I plan on either Steeda side exhaust, or the true single-chamber design Cobra R competition exhaust (saw one in the classifieds the other day, and :drool: 'd my ass off)

Jbauer: Here's some pics from another thread I made. They fit perfect. It's tough to guess the fender gap now, mostly because of the offset of the rear wheels and the 9.5" width vs most guys running 10". Overall, I like 'em alot, the ride quality with my other mods in the sig is suprisingly civil, and with my particular tires, the grip is like nothing I've experienced in 6 years of Stang-ing. I plan on getting some 1/2" spacers for the back to flesh it out a tad in the fenderwell, but even then, they already look perfect with the fronts stagger-wise, they just look smaller than they are because they sit inside the fender some.
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#7
dude thats great. How much gap do you have in the rear thouhg? I figure, since i'll be running 18x10, i'll have even less than what you have because itll stick out about .5" further and by the looks of it you don't have very much fender gap?
 
#8
The fender gap actually looks a bit exaggerated in those pics vs. in person. I did gain a little extra rake from them, but isn't that the idea with these cars anyway :nice: ? I am also running energy suspension urethane spring isolators all around, top and bottom, so even with my BBK springs, it still looks a bit up in the air. Like I said, it's not as bad in person, and I'll take the tad extra ground clearance. I tore a huge hole in my 87's prochamber one time on a rough road with the same springs and 245/45/17s. If I ever go to LT headers, I'll need it around here. I'm definitely happy with the look, because when I'm done, my car will have alot of "muscle car" influence to it, vs. some guys who have more of a "sports car/ speedster" look, like some Saleens and such. More brute, less lightspeed look to it than the 295+/35 tires guys put on 18x10s.
 
#9
It would be tough to guess that for you Bauer, because my wheels have a strange offset. They aren't intended for a Stang, actually I found out after I fell in love with them that they are very popular amongs the import and BMW crouds (shhhh, don't tell anybody). So my wheels may sit a bit shallow for their size in the well. I'd say I have atleast 2" of fender gap, but because my wheels sit a bit inboard, they have more room to travel beyond the lip. I also run a stock pinion snubber with my setup just so that I run no change of bottoming out the tires in the fenders. I had that happen with 17x9s on my 87, and it sucked. I only notice the bigger snubber on huge bumps, because when it stops the travel that quick, you feel it. Otherwise, my springs/shocks/struts do a nice job of absorbing the roads around here, and I don't end up tapping it. Overall, I'd say that you'd want to run a larger tire width wise on an 18x10. You may end up with the tried and true 295/35/18 on back with a 265/35/18 in front. I saw that on a Mach with staggered Saleens recently, and it looked nice, just very "speedster."
 
#10
Oh yeah, anyone with info to add on the X pipe thing, please forgive my and Bauer's hijacking of my thread for a bit there and comment what you know. I just try to help when dudes have questions. I had weeks of headaches figuring out that wheel/tire size and fitment setup, and hopefully I can learn from your headaches with X pipes. :lol:
 
#12
Not at all. Especially when driving, because the suspension is so firm. Those shots are taken really low, so the car does look a bit "up" in the air. Also, my car was on a lift all day when those pics were taken, so the springs may have had to settle a bit again. I find mine do that any time they spend more than a couple hours on the lift.
 
#14
good good.

285 is the recomended width for a 10" wheel, although i do think 295s look better from behind, i think filling up the wheel gap is more important. I'm on sportlines, so i think with a 285 40 out back, i should have maybe 1 finger wheel gap on a new edge.

I also want to run 255 40 18s in the front, but i'm not sure if i can get them to fit. I have like 1.5 fingers gap in the front, since i'm running sportlines with no isolators. I really want to run the 285 40 in the rear though, because if i run 295 35 in the rear, and i put the 255 40s in the front i'm gonna lose all my rake.

Anyway um... what questions are you looking for now? lol

thanks
 
#15
Haha, still want to know what's up with this "napa bolt kit" I came upon one time, if I can solder extensions into the wires on the 02 sensors or if I need to buy the made ones, and can I reuse the gasket on the car, or do I need to purchase one? IIRC, this napa bolt kit or something like that was supposed to eliminate the need for the gasket, but this was when I first bought my car last year.

On a side note, my fronts are 255/40, and I think I could lose an isolator up there, but I autocross, so I'll take the travel room. Also, the isolators are there for a reason, so I keep 'em in there. I'm very happy with my car's ride, so I don't want to mess with it much more for a while. Next up is tightening the chassis, installing my blower setup, some big brakes, side exhaust, and then more cosmetics.
 
#16
Couple tips,
-Make sure the car is cold before you go at the manifold bolts, if not, the threads will be seized and a PITA to take apart.
-Make sure you get a midpipe gasket from your Ford dealer. If not the pipe will more than likely leak.

And although some people believe that BBK's ORX results in popcorn sounds, mine sounds far from it, I have a BBK ORX and weld in 40's and I dont hear that issue.
 
#18
I'm curious, since I have the rear 02 sensors disabled in the Xcal II, do I need to even bother hooking them up? can I just zip-tie the connectors to the chassis and go? or is it the front sensors that need extending?
 
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