Installing o/r x-pipe tomorrow, quick Qs?

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

1,899

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Assonet, MA

May 29, 2008

#21

• May 29, 2008

• #21

I do have emissions, but I'm not worried about it, I have a connection that will overlook it. I was told that around here, as long as there's no CEL, you're good with the inspection computer, I don't have to go on the dyno, just get plugged in with my car.

On another note: The install turned into a total nightmare. I got all but 1 bolt off, the one behind the starter. It promptly stripped on me, even after a few hours of soaking in WD40 and being cold. I tried a Craftsman damaged bolt remover tool, and it totally swiss-cheesed it. So now I'm stuck with my car half together, and I gotta send it to a shop to have that stud cut and replaced, if they can do that. If not, I guess I have to get the headers put in. I tried for 5 hours to get that damn bolt off with no success. I'm pissed off, because I've done H pipe changes like a dozen times on my 87 with only minor headaches, but this time I am SKA-REWED. I can only imagine what my local shop is going to whack me for this...

 

joshjwc9

Active Member

Jun 12, 2006

1,095

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39

Palm Harbor, FL

May 29, 2008

#22

• May 29, 2008

• #22

When I did mine, I just made sure I did the passenger side first, because when I helped a buddy do his 01, we did the driver side first and screwed over the one just by the starter...good luck man

 

Dark_Horse

Member

Dec 29, 2006

83

0

6

Springfield, MO

May 29, 2008

#23

• May 29, 2008

• #23

My only advice is:
1) Make sure you have medium length (2" long or so) deep sockets for the pass. side collector nuts (11/32 i think ???). A full length deep socket is too long and I couldn't get torque on it with the regular socket so you'll need to make sure to get that. Also make sure you have swivel joint for both your 3/4 drive and 1/2 drive and a few extensions. The top nut is tricky to undo if you dont have those. WD-40 all of the bolts/nuts that you are going to remove the night before and make sure to unhook the neg batt. terminal (I got the ratchet across the starter wires and almost melted my hand)
2) o2 extensions arent necessary. however im sure they would make the process faster and would be good to have just in case.
3) get a new exhaust gasket for the pass side manifold
4) a six pack of budweiser
5) possibly pizza to go with #4

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

1,899

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Assonet, MA

May 30, 2008

#24

• May 30, 2008

• #24

Well, it got done by a shop. They had to torch the studs, and then replaced them with the mystery NAPA bolt kit. Basically, the stock studs have a collar on them that won't let most aftermarket pipes seat properly. He said he's seen a bunch of guys chase leaks only to find them as the cause. The NAPA bolts take care of that. They also tossed on some 02 extenders for me. Now that it's done, all I can say is:

HOLY FING LOUD BATMAN I can hear the raspy sound some may call the popcorn effect, but that's not the problem, it's just damn loud. I used to think my 87 with an H/C/I'd motor, headers, prochamber, and MAC flowpaths was loud, and maybe I'm just not used to it anymore, but dayyyyyum. I was driving home at like 1500RPM afraid to crack the throttle. It's definitely a "look at me cops" exhaust. It reminds me of alot of the Termi Cobras you here with Magnaflows. Just loud. I can't wait to get side exhaust, because everybody moans and groans about how quiet they are, but with this pipe, it should be about right. Thanks to all those who tried to help, and I'm gonna take this to Talk now so we can all banter about loud exhausts.

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

1,899

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Assonet, MA

May 30, 2008

#25

• May 30, 2008

• #25

One more thing.... I am looking forward to my next mods: gears. Mostly for what they bring on their own, but also because it will tighten up the way the car winds up, and therefore the exhaust note will be tighter together, and make the raspiness sound I guess what you'd call better. Right now it's kinda "slap" sounding, but with the gears, it will rev tighter and sound better. Downshifts are now loud as all hell too now.

 

J

Jbauer

New Member

Jan 20, 2008

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May 31, 2008

#26

• May 31, 2008

• #26

hmm..if the shop owner was serious, i don't understand why they wouldn't include the collar from the factory with these H and X pipes.

I wouldn't get gears to make the car sound better. Your running a chambered muffler with an X pipe, and like you said, your only running it because you got a good deal. The H pipe will fix all that you dislike.
Loud is the only way to have a mustang. If its not striking fear in women and children your doing something wrong.

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

1,899

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Assonet, MA

May 31, 2008

#27

• May 31, 2008

• #27

I dunno on that. Also, I'm getting gears because I want gears...I just know it'll make the wind-up sound better in the car when it's quicker, it'll blend the sound together a little more.

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

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Assonet, MA

Jun 1, 2008

#28

• Jun 1, 2008

• #28

I think I found why it's so loud....driver's side leak at the header. When I brought it to the shop, I left my spare keys, which apparently do NOT start the car Good to know if I'm ever screwed in the future. So they couldn't check for leaks. I went under the car, tightened up where the X connects to the catback, because that looked a bit on the loose side (I tighten until the flanges start to bend in a tad toward each other). I then listened from under the car, and heard the slight ticking from the header. Thank God it's the ball flange connector and not the passenger side with the gasket, because I just plain don't want to screw around under there anymore. I might take one pass at firming them up now that I've put a few miles on the car, but I'm glad I'm not replacing that stupid gasket. I listened to like 10 clips of this same setup on Youtube, and none of 'em have the stupid loud rapping sound that I do, so I'm hoping that by fixing the small header leak, it'll tighten it back up. I'll let you all know how it goes once the car is cooled off and I can torque those bitches down.

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

1,899

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Assonet, MA

Jun 1, 2008

#29

• Jun 1, 2008

• #29

Well, I went under there and torqued everything down the best I could, and it got better, but it still sounds like the driver's side header is leaking at the X pipe, and something just sounds like it's rattling around between 2-3k only. I'm gonna run it back to the shop Tuesday and see what they think. I still think it's not right compared to all the clips on the net.

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

1,899

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Assonet, MA

Jun 1, 2008

#30

• Jun 1, 2008

• #30

Won't matter either way now, just won a prochamber for 50.00 on Ebay. Gotta love stumbling onto a deal. Now I'll sell this pipe and make back most of the money

 

B

BobHyatt

New Member

Aug 7, 2007

378

1

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Jun 1, 2008

#31

• Jun 1, 2008

• #31

Dark_Horse said:

My only advice is:
1) Make sure you have medium length (2" long or so) deep sockets for the pass. side collector nuts (11/32 i think ???). A full length deep socket is too long and I couldn't get torque on it with the regular socket so you'll need to make sure to get that. Also make sure you have swivel joint for both your 3/4 drive and 1/2 drive and a few extensions. The top nut is tricky to undo if you dont have those. WD-40 all of the bolts/nuts that you are going to remove the night before and make sure to unhook the neg batt. terminal (I got the ratchet across the starter wires and almost melted my hand)
2) o2 extensions arent necessary. however im sure they would make the process faster and would be good to have just in case.
3) get a new exhaust gasket for the pass side manifold
4) a six pack of budweiser
5) possibly pizza to go with #4

Click to expand...

Also, use a 6 point socket and throw the 12 point sockets out. I've never rounded a bolt/nut using the correct sized 6 point socket. I have broken a few off, but that's a lot better than rounding and being stuck...

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

1,899

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Assonet, MA

Jun 1, 2008

#32

• Jun 1, 2008

• #32

Yeah, I think that was my problem the first time, my only deep well sockets were "Companion" brand star heads. Now that the shop replaced everything with 1/2" bolts from the bottom, I can use my Craftsman stuff. I'm going to do the Prochamber myself when it comes in, and then sell the pipe to recoup most of the cost of the X pipe and the headers. Can't beat turning a good deal into a better one!

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

1,899

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39

Assonet, MA

Jun 12, 2008

#33

• Jun 12, 2008

• #33

Put the prochamber on today. I had to cut down one of my 15mm sockets to do it, but once I did, it was cake. Probably helps alot that the X pipe has only been there for about 2 weeks. Now the car sounds perfect. Almost stock at idle and with civil driving, but with a really nice sound to it when you stomp on the loud pedal. The car feels more torquey on the butt dyno too. I'm very happy with it. This is two different applications with a Prochamber (my H/C/I'd 87 had one too), and both times it's sounded excellent and made noticeable butt dyno impact. A+ for MAC's Prochamber!

 

flstang65

10 Year Member

Dec 6, 2007

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94

SE Georgia

Jun 13, 2008

#34

• Jun 13, 2008

• #34

that steeda wing looks bad ass on your car

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

1,899

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39

Assonet, MA

Jun 13, 2008

#35

• Jun 13, 2008

• #35

Thanks!