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Installing PA Racing K Member Couple Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter 95strokerPSU
  • Start date Start date Jan 12, 2008

95strokerPSU

Member
Jul 29, 2004
986
1
19
Sacramento from Philly
Jan 12, 2008
#1
  • Jan 12, 2008
  • #1
I got the old K Memer out and the new PA Racing one in with no problem, but the motor mount locating tabs aren't lining up. I've heard some other companies require that the tabs be grinded off, so should I grind mine off.

Also, how did you guys square the K member to the frame? Maximum Motorsports has a pretty good write-up, should I follow that?

Here's some pics from today, I'll have more tomorrow when I finish up...


 

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SQUEEZE&STROKE

New Member
Jun 24, 2005
0
0
0
SOUTHERN CA
Jan 12, 2008
#2
  • Jan 12, 2008
  • #2
I ground mine off...
 

FastFord

Founding Member
Sep 5, 2002
380
0
0
Washington
Jan 21, 2008
#3
  • Jan 21, 2008
  • #3
I had to grind mine as well (for a QA1 setup).
 

Yobi1Kanobi

Member
Apr 9, 2003
559
0
16
Jan 21, 2008
#4
  • Jan 21, 2008
  • #4
No grinding here, I got a griggs tho. And I was able to set me motor back an inch....
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
Jan 21, 2008
#5
  • Jan 21, 2008
  • #5
I ground mine off too. I didn't do anything special to square it up, but I did have an alignment done as soon as I got it all installed.
 

gcomfx.com

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
3,690
0
56
Republic, MO
Jan 22, 2008
#6
  • Jan 22, 2008
  • #6
I'm getting ready to do this... but I'm pulling my engine. So keep any hints, tricks, or help coming.

I do have one question. If you moved your engine back an inch, did you have to change anything with your tranny mounts or shorten your driveshaft?
 

Yobi1Kanobi

Member
Apr 9, 2003
559
0
16
Jan 22, 2008
#7
  • Jan 22, 2008
  • #7
gcomfx.com said:
I'm getting ready to do this... but I'm pulling my engine. So keep any hints, tricks, or help coming.

I do have one question. If you moved your engine back an inch, did you have to change anything with your tranny mounts or shorten your driveshaft?
Click to expand...

Sometimes in my case I was Ok becuase I was doing a TKO swap so now I dont need a DS spacer....and a couple firewall bolts need to be shaved....
 

str8stang036

New Member
Dec 28, 2002
1,382
0
0
Miami
Jan 22, 2008
#8
  • Jan 22, 2008
  • #8
I also had to grind off the tab on the mounts
 

purevenm

Member
May 27, 2005
71
0
7
Jan 23, 2008
#9
  • Jan 23, 2008
  • #9
I also just got my Pa Racing K-member and A arms. I'm waiting for warmer weather to install it. So needless to say I'm paying close attention to this thread. My question is:

95strokerPSU, Did that bag of parts(bolts and nuts) come with your K-member?

I did not get a bag of bolts with mine.
 

Yobi1Kanobi

Member
Apr 9, 2003
559
0
16
Jan 24, 2008
#10
  • Jan 24, 2008
  • #10
purevenm said:
I also just got my Pa Racing K-member and A arms. I'm waiting for warmer weather to install it. So needless to say I'm paying close attention to this thread. My question is:

95strokerPSU, Did that bag of parts(bolts and nuts) come with your K-member?

I did not get a bag of bolts with mine.
Click to expand...

Your suppose to reuse you originals.
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
Jan 24, 2008
#11
  • Jan 24, 2008
  • #11
I went out and bought all new hardware for mine.
 

95strokerPSU

Member
Jul 29, 2004
986
1
19
Sacramento from Philly
Jan 24, 2008
#12
  • Jan 24, 2008
  • #12
purevenm said:
I also just got my Pa Racing K-member and A arms. I'm waiting for warmer weather to install it. So needless to say I'm paying close attention to this thread. My question is:

95strokerPSU, Did that bag of parts(bolts and nuts) come with your K-member?

I did not get a bag of bolts with mine.
Click to expand...

It was $25 extra for all of the bolts. You could easily go to a hardware store and get your own, but for $25 it was easier to just have them supply them.

When you do your install, put you're steering rack on the new K member before you bolt it up. This weekend I'm going to have to raise the engine and loosen the K member bolts enough to get the steering rack on.

Feel free to ask any questions
Dave
 

gcomfx.com

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
3,690
0
56
Republic, MO
Jan 24, 2008
#13
  • Jan 24, 2008
  • #13
95strokerPSU said:
When you do your install, put you're steering rack on the new K member before you bolt it up. This weekend I'm going to have to raise the engine and loosen the K member bolts enough to get the steering rack on.

Feel free to ask any questions
Dave
Click to expand...

Good info... thanks for sharing.
 

purevenm

Member
May 27, 2005
71
0
7
Jan 25, 2008
#14
  • Jan 25, 2008
  • #14
Sorry everyone, I didn't realize that I could have ordered the mustang bolt package. I was able to finally go online last night and back on ther website and ordered the $25.00 hardware.

95strokerPSU, any tips or lessons learned while installing your K-member are greatly appriciated from me.
 

purevenm

Member
May 27, 2005
71
0
7
Mar 10, 2008
#15
  • Mar 10, 2008
  • #15
Go her in last week!! Pa Racing K-member w/perches

I had no problems at all and did it in about 5.5 hours. I however didn't run into the steering shaft problem because mine telescoped up more than enough to put in place. Here are a few photos:

Heres the link to my photobucket with all the photos from the install:
http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/aa290/PUREVNM/Mustang K-member install/?start=all
 

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MattZ281LE

Founding Member
Feb 6, 2000
345
1
19
Purcellville, Va
Mar 10, 2008
#16
  • Mar 10, 2008
  • #16
I did the PA racing K also. Had the motor out. I used new hardware on the rack mounting. Very easy install. I did reuse the control are mounting bolts. I lithium grease to assemble the arms.

I found that my ball joint nut went down a little far so as that the castle was to far down for teh cotter pin. I used some hardened washeres to fix that.

Another issue was the mounting of the rack. the mount tubes where a lylle long and I just ground them down an 1/8th inch.







 
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