intake, heads, exhaust?

The stock PI intake manifold is perfectly fine unless you are making 500+ rwhp.

What is your current exhaust setup? And where is it leaking?

There is a gasket between the passenger side exhaust manifold and midpipe that can go bad.

No need right now for an aftermarket intake manifold.

Heads and cams wise, I would look into the Modular Head Shop stage 2 cylinder heads, and Modular Head Shop stage 2 cams. Both would pick up the power significantly.

Intake - the one you've got

Heads - MHS/CMS heads

Cams - MHS/CMS or HiTech cams

Long tubes, MHS cams or Hi tech's, ported pi heads yourself will save you alot of money and run awesome!!, would be one mean combo

1fun281 said:

ported pi heads yourself will save you alot of money and run awesome!!, would be one mean combo

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MMR will port/polish your heads for under $1K and they do a good job

But with MMR's ported heads for under $1,000, it still has stock valves, stock guides, stock springs, ect.

It's a completely stock head with a port job. Don't get me wrong, I've seen their port work, and it looked good. But a person would still need to upgrade to bigger valves, springs, ect to take full advantage of them.

Trickflow makes a pretty sweet kit.

Just saying if you wanted to save money, or just get MMR to port the heads and put SS valves in and comp cams makes the upgraded springs i believe just rebuild the head

duzy said:

long tubes, H pipe, flowmaster 40,s i think at the back of the headers havent actually looked

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In that case, I'd definitely look at that gasket. It's probably leaking. I've also had the nuts that hold the midpipe to the exhaust manifold come loose, so make sure they are tight.

As for the heads and cams, it really depends on what you're looking for power-wise and money-wise. If you were really set on making NA power on a street-driven 2-valve, I'd get the MHS head/cam combo package (found here; it includes EVERYTHING, and they're already degreed. I'd run it with MHS's PI Stage 2P cam. I'm sure that combo would make over 300 rwhp easily, and should run deep in the 12s, all with good street manners. If I was building an all-motor daily driven 2-valve car, or wanted a good setup to make bigger power in the future under boost (500-600 rwhp), this is what I'd do (except put a set of blower cams in instead). The only thing is that it costs $2400, plus labor (assuming you don't do it yourself), plus a tune ($400+).

If you just want a little more horsepower, just a set of cams (degreed in, of course) would net nice gains. MHS's PI Stage 2 cam or Hitech Stage 2 cam will make good power (285-300 rwhp), and I personally know of a couple of people running well into the 12s with full bolt ons, Hitech Stage 2 cams, and stock heads. Cams+degree+tune will run in the $1100 range.