Interior Paint Question

LasVegas67Stang · Feb 9, 2004

Hello,

Need some info on what type of paint to use for painting the doors "the metal part around the panel" also for painting the glove box and under the dash. would like to paint these black. Thanks for taking the time to look at my question , I am new to this and need all the help I can get.

J.D.

Blown93Cobra · Feb 9, 2004

LasVegas67Stang said:
Hello,

Need some info on what type of paint to use for painting the doors "the metal part around the panel" also for painting the glove box and under the dash. would like to paint these black. Thanks for taking the time to look at my question , I am new to this and need all the help I can get.

J.D.

I assume you are working on a '67? If so, I found Charcoal Black lacquer in rattle cans works very well. It takes several light coats but comes out looking "factory". You can buy it at most Mustang Vendors. I got mine from CJ pony parts. Good luck!

LasVegas67Stang · Feb 9, 2004

Yes it is a 67 thank you any others have imput

67coupe351w · Feb 9, 2004

My experiance with rattle can resto colors is this: It sucks.

I painted my interior Light Parchment. I bought 1 can of it to spray a color panel to take to the local paint shop. It took about half the can to cover about a 6 inch by 6 inch panel and even then it was transparent. Turns out the paint shop had in their color book the original for color that the mixed up for me.

I painted the interior with a base-clear system with a matte finish. It will last a good long time. Rattle can paint will wear off rather quickly espeacialy on the doors where you rest your arem on it.

Thats just my 2 cents. good luck!

Cdaniel · Feb 10, 2004

67coupe351w said:
My experiance with rattle can resto colors is this: It sucks.

I painted my interior Light Parchment. I bought 1 can of it to spray a color panel to take to the local paint shop. It took about half the can to cover about a 6 inch by 6 inch panel and even then it was transparent. Turns out the paint shop had in their color book the original for color that the mixed up for me.

I painted the interior with a base-clear system with a matte finish. It will last a good long time. Rattle can paint will wear off rather quickly espeacialy on the doors where you rest your arem on it.

Thats just my 2 cents. good luck!

I'll agree with the avoid rattle can recommendation. It's ok but not a real durable solution. I just finished re painting all the interior pieces of my 66 fastback with catalyized acrylic enamel. I'm hoping this will last a long time.

SuperDave · Feb 10, 2004

Be gentle in the preparation of the doors. The "moon-skin" texture should be preserved. I've had good success with "rattle-can" interior paint provided by the vendors. It is NOT the same as hardware store paint.

zookeeper · Feb 10, 2004

SD's right about the grain on the door interior, sand it and you'll kill it. Although it's a lot of work, I'd suggest either removing the door and using a chemical stripper if it has multiple coats on it, or simply scuffing it with a Scotch-Brite pad CAREFULLY! However, I disagree with using spray cans for anything other than a temporary touch-up. The reason is, paint that comes in spray cans is not catalyzed and therefore will wear much, much quicker than paints that are. If you drive your car much, you already know the "natural" feel of resting your arm on the door (and the subsequent bare spot on the door!) which is why I'd lean towards a base/clear with a matte finish.

68converted · Feb 10, 2004

I used the rattle can to do a color match (half a can to very little, that sucks because it is expensive). Then I went to the "painter's supply" shop and they matched the color, mixed it up and put it in a special rattle can setup for me, very cool. Prior to doing this I use Aircraft stripper and a green scrub pad, I was able to preserve the texture (some was rubbed smooth at the typical spot) I had everything taped off/preped and as soon as I had the paint mixed, I shot home and sprayed it (doors, dash and glovebox). Turned out great! I let it sit in the garage for a day then put it in the drive with the windows up on a 90 degree day. Baked the finish hard as a rock!

I did not have a compressor at the time and it worked good. I now have a compressor and I would have done it BC/CC now. Good luck!

Cdaniel · Feb 10, 2004

zookeeper said:
SD's right about the grain on the door interior, sand it and you'll kill it. Although it's a lot of work, I'd suggest either removing the door and using a chemical stripper if it has multiple coats on it, or simply scuffing it with a Scotch-Brite pad CAREFULLY! However, I disagree with using spray cans for anything other than a temporary touch-up. The reason is, paint that comes in spray cans is not catalyzed and therefore will wear much, much quicker than paints that are. If you drive your car much, you already know the "natural" feel of resting your arm on the door (and the subsequent bare spot on the door!) which is why I'd lean towards a base/clear with a matte finish.

I didn't have much luck with the chem stripper on mine. I couldn't get the paint completely out of the grain, and it didn't do much for rust. I ended up getting them bead blasted. Of course this would be a PIA if your not completely disassembling the car

LasVegas67Stang · Feb 10, 2004

Thanks guys after reading every thing maybe i should take them to a shop to do ... what do you think the price might be

wickedmach1 · Feb 10, 2004

If I go to my local automotive paint store to have some paint matched to the proper interior color, what type of paint or mixtures should I ask for? I want the stock color and good looks with durability.

Cdaniel · Feb 11, 2004

wickedmach1 said:
If I go to my local automotive paint store to have some paint matched to the proper interior color, what type of paint or mixtures should I ask for? I want the stock color and good looks with durability.

I just bought some of the rattle can interior paint from a Mustang supplier, sprayed it on a sample card and took in in for a paint match. I had to add flattener myself to get the finish as close as possible on a single stage paint

Turned out great!

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