Interior wiring question diagram

big_tiger15 · Aug 10, 2005

OK as I stated before the guy who owned my car was a dumb a$$ and wired a ground to a positive. Which messed up all my interior lighting and power doock locks. I have abandoned the stock wiring because its all fried. I need my Stereo illumination to work my aftermarket tach to light up and the AC control switches to light up (my car is very dark at night).
Right now I re-did everything that has to do with my headlights and my dashboard lights. I don't have a dimmer switch, and I don't care to have one.

First question: What color wire or which fuse does the AC control light run off of?

Second: What color wire is the ill. wire on a Autometer tach?

Third: Could I just run a all time hot straight to the fuse that the Power door locks run off of, or should it be a switched hot?

The image attached is my diagram on how I think it should work. Does it all look correct?

I lost my fuse panel diagram so I must work off memory or yall give me a link to a diagram.
Thanks in advance

jrichker · Aug 10, 2005

See http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ for a fuse panel diagram

bubba-dough · Aug 10, 2005

a/c heater controls assembly runs off of fuse 9 (30A) brn/org constant hot; and fuse 6 (20A) wht/pnk and is switched hot. But i don't know what these wires control. I would wire the door locks hot constant, thats how they are wired from the factory. this info is from the Haynes section 12-50 for 1991 and later 4 cyl. (I seen your car used to be a 4 cyl)

big_tiger15 · Aug 10, 2005

here is the diagram of the headlight switch. If I ran a wire from the Brown wire # 14 off the headlight switch, and hooked that up to the signal positive on the relay. I would just ground the other end like I have it right? Should I use fuse 9 to get the all time hot for my stereo ill. and etc., or go with another fuse?

Number 8 seems like a good Idea because I am not using that right now I think.

I have to replace all the brake parts on my Intrepid after I finish this. For some reason when the brakes go bad you have to replace the calipers or it will just keep warping rotors. POS Dodge with there foam craddle bushings, crappy brakes, and a tranny that absorbs 30% of the power. I went thru my Dodge experience, When will you go thru yours? LOL

HISSIN50 · Aug 10, 2005

You are correct - the bottom coil wire on the relay should be ground if the other coil gets 12 volts.

You probably dont need the relay to power a tach light.

Good luck.

bubba-dough · Aug 10, 2005

I would use the # 16 for a constant hot because it is the horn and cig lighter and thats all thats on it. Sorry but I read the schematic wrong the first time. # 9 is only hot in the "run" position. #'s 1,4,16 are hot all the time.

HISSIN50 · Aug 10, 2005

I am probably missing something, but why the need for constant 12 volts to a tach. I would definately used a switched-12 volt source.

bubba-dough · Aug 10, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
I am probably missing something, but why the need for constant 12 volts to a tach. I would definately used a switched-12 volt source.

The constant is for his stereo illumination and other things that do need a constant+

big_tiger15 · Aug 10, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
I am probably missing something, but why the need for constant 12 volts to a tach. I would definately used a switched-12 volt source.

lol the constant hot is only for the Door locks... Also I need to know the wire to light up my tach not to make the tach work.

HISSIN50 · Aug 10, 2005

bubba-dough said:
The constant is for his stereo illumination and other things that do need a constant+

Stereo illumination is not constant. It is switched via the dimmer (which is via the parking-light position on the headlight switch, in stock form).

Big Tiger, gotcha now. For locks, I would run a dedicated line from the battery/starter solenoid, with a circuit breaker on it.

For tach illumination, the parking light wire is the next best thing if you dont have a dimmer (the parking-light wire is brown on my '88. I found it under the dash above the clutch pedal, rather than getting it at the headlight switch).

If needing the illumination wire on the tach, I think it is white, but I dont recall from my install for sure. AM's site has instructions with the wires labeled. I would look it up real quick for you, but on dial-up, that PDF takes FOREVER.

Good luck bud.

big_tiger15 · Aug 10, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
Stereo illumination is not constant. It is switched via the dimmer (which is via the parking-light position on the headlight switch, in stock form).

Big Tiger, gotcha now. For locks, I would run a dedicated line from the battery/starter solenoid, with a circuit breaker on it.

For tach illumination, the parking light wire is the next best thing if you dont have a dimmer (the parking-light wire is brown on my '88. I found it under the dash above the clutch pedal, rather than getting it at the headlight switch).

If needing the illumination wire on the tach, I think it is white, but I dont recall from my install for sure. AM's site has instructions with the wires labeled. I would look it up real quick for you, but on dial-up, that PDF takes FOREVER.

Good luck bud.

Alright remember now My factory wiring is fried!!! I ran a new brown wire, and a new wire to the parking lamps. (for the power door locks) I have a spare fuse holder that will work instead of your circuit breaker? For the tach yes it is the white wire.

HISSIN50 · Aug 11, 2005

I dont see why a fuse wont work for the locks. I just use the CB's that plug into blade-style fuseholders anyhow, so you can always do that later. But locks are not much of a draw/overdraw (like power windows can be with little kids who hold the button when the window is already maxed out).

yeah, I cant keep what is going on straight here, so I reply post to post. Sorry for confusion about the 'brown wire' but I knew of no other way to reference it. Parking light wire would work.

Good luck and hope you get it all up and running soon!

big_tiger15 · Aug 12, 2005

Which color wire is the hot wire on the door lock switch? On the back of the switch we have a black/white, black (ground), pink/green, and pink/yellow. Me and my father assume its the black with white wire, but you never know.

Saleen0679 · Aug 12, 2005

B/W is correct for the hot.

big_tiger15 · Aug 13, 2005

Alright!!!
My AC controls, headlight/hazard switches, and my stereo now light up!!! I ran a new power line from the starter solenoid to a relay. Then from the relay I ran the switched power to fuse number 13. It has the light blue with red wire that goes to everything. The factory wire is kinda melted but it still works. My tach doesn't light up because the bulb is burned out (lol). The pervious owner ran the tachs power and the tach's light wire to the same fuse. So when the car was on the tach would light up.
I am going to go buy a circuit breaker like Hissin50 stated (my dad told me how they work ) for fuse number 13.

Ok yall know of the exact piece that the fuse plugs into (like if I want to add a fuse to the spare fuse spot)? I need to buy some, and im not sure if they sell em. I bought this random Ford plug piece set at Autozone, and nothing would work.

My power door lock switch works properly, and is getting juice. I assume the problem is both door lock acuators are gone.

Tommorrow is another great day for my "Mustake," because I am supposed to have my 3.73s and my TracLoc installed.

HISSIN50 · Aug 13, 2005

big_tiger15 said:
My tach doesn't light up because the bulb is burned out (lol). The pervious owner ran the tachs power and the tach's light wire to the same fuse. So when the car was on the tach would light up.

Bro - we did not need to know that. Do you have a Mark VIII by chance? J/K

I am likely confused again. I dont see a need to use a Circuit breaker (which is just a resettable fuse - you already have a couple in your fuse box) on instrument lighting. That is just a 5 amp IIRC circuit anyhow.

When I mentioned the CB, it was for the locks. But it sounds like you have those working well. Even for locks, they are not needed really. Power windows would be different.

Not sure what you mean about the fuse tap. If you want to "tee" into an existing fuse, you can use a Tee-tap. They are like 6 bucks (ouch) at the parts store locally. I generally use a different kind of tap (it is a metal leg which sits along one side of the fuse. In the end of the metal strip is a tang for a female spade connector to slide on). The best way is to get at the wire behind the fuse box and Tee into it there (with a soldered connection).

Or if you want to grab power from a vacant fuse slot which has power inside it, you can use a male spade connector on many such connections. Hold up a blade fuse's leg (blade) to spades till you find one of the same size. If that port was made for a fuse, a spade of the same size should fit.

Hope that made some sort of sense.
Good luck.

big_tiger15 · Aug 13, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
Not sure what you mean about the fuse tap. If you want to "tee" into an existing fuse, you can use a Tee-tap. They are like 6 bucks (ouch) at the parts store locally. I generally use a different kind of tap (it is a metal leg which sits along one side of the fuse. In the end of the metal strip is a tang for a female spade connector to slide on). The best way is to get at the wire behind the fuse box and Tee into it there (with a soldered connection).

Or if you want to grab power from a vacant fuse slot which has power inside it, you can use a male spade connector on many such connections. Hold up a blade fuse's leg (blade) to spades till you find one of the same size. If that port was made for a fuse, a spade of the same size should fit.

Hope that made some sort of sense.
Good luck.

I am not talking about a fuse tap. I have two of the type of fuse taps in use as we speak.
EXAMPLE: Lets say I want to put a fuse in fuse number 7 or 17, but wait I cant because there are no metal connectors for the fuse to plug (or snap) into. How can I put a metal connector in the empty spot?
END EXAMPLE lol ok sorry if I sounded like an ass, but I need the metal connector that goes inside the plastic fuse block. On the hot side of fuse 13 (the side that doesn’t connect to the stereo, AC controls and headlight switches) that metal connector is about whored out. I had to recycle the metal connector to go with the new wire I have. Anyone else know what I am talking about?

Oh and I am using spell check for now on, lol.

Saleen0679 · Aug 13, 2005

You're talking about the clips that the blade fuses slide into? If you want to R&R the actual fuse clips I'm not sure exactly what they look like, but you're probably going to have to source those from some place like Digikey or Mouser. Do a search for 'fuse clip' or 'fuse holder'.

big_tiger15 · Aug 13, 2005

Saleen0679 said:
You're talking about the clips that the blade fuses slide into? If you want to R&R the actual fuse clips I'm not sure exactly what they look like, but you're probably going to have to source those from some place like Digikey or Mouser. Do a search for 'fuse clip' or 'fuse holder'.

I did some searching and looked at every PDF file related to fuses, and the closest thing to what I need is G http://www.mouser.com/catalog/623/430.pdf
That would stay inserted into a factory for Fuse block. We are closer after work if I am not doing anything I will pull out and take a pic of what I am talking about.

Saleen0679 · Aug 13, 2005

Another thought would be to go to a junkyard and disassemble a fuse box for the terminals. I'm not sure how they are inserted, but it may be possible to remove a few without damage. Looking at the PDF it doesn't appear that removing the terminals would be a complicated operation.

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