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Intermittent Problem:It dies

  • Thread starter Thread starter glowstang93
  • Start date Start date Nov 23, 2005

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
8
39
Illinois
Nov 23, 2005
#1
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #1
Three times now, my pony has dropped down to 500 rpms when i slowed down and died. The check engine light came on too. I thought it might have been the ICM again, so i got another one,but it still did it. Put on a new belt tensioner and belt. Still did it. Going to take it in next week and have it checked out by my friend and mechanic. Anybody got any ideas?? I hate it that my baby is acting up, but at least its during winter.
 

Dr_EluSivE

Founding Member
Apr 24, 2002
2,155
0
56
Central Illinois
Nov 23, 2005
#2
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #2
I would try Cleaning or replacing the Idle Air control valve (IAC) or get yourself an Bypass plate. Could be a Vaccum leak somewhere too.

Dr.
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
8
39
Illinois
Nov 23, 2005
#3
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #3
Dr, where is the idle air control and what does it look like. I agree it sounds like it could be something like that. Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving
 

16vstang

New Member
Oct 8, 2004
100
0
0
Way up in Maine
Nov 23, 2005
#4
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #4

#s 1 and 3 sould be swaped but its the clyender in the back atatched to the tb. Hope that helps
Heres the link also for a tech collum on how to clean it
http://projecthp.ford23.com/tech.html
 

white1989

New Member
Oct 31, 2005
66
0
0
Brampton, Ontario
Nov 25, 2005
#5
  • Nov 25, 2005
  • #5
Also check two other things:

1) Fuel filter - when wa sthe last time you replaced it?
2) Alternator - check with a real multimeter to see if it is getting weak. I know you have installed a stronger one, but still check it.
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
8
39
Illinois
Nov 25, 2005
#6
  • Nov 25, 2005
  • #6
last time was aroung 60000, and i have 80000 now. Whats the correct way to check voltage from alternator, i have a multimeter. The volt gauge is showing good. Thanks for your help.
 

white1989

New Member
Oct 31, 2005
66
0
0
Brampton, Ontario
Nov 25, 2005
#7
  • Nov 25, 2005
  • #7
there is a set testing points on the back of the alternator. Use your multimeter and set it to DCV. You should see 13.8v. If not then the regulator pack may be at fault.
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
8
39
Illinois
Nov 29, 2005
#8
  • Nov 29, 2005
  • #8
Well, took it to the shop Monday. Mechanic found the ICM code, but I had just changed it and even changed it again just last week thinking it was bad again. He said the one whole side of my coil/plugs weren't hot. He unplugged the ICM and then plugged it back in and it was ok then. So he said he bent a terminal some to make a better connection for the ICM. Drove it home and to and from work no problems yet. Course that is only about 12 miles so far. The shop said to take it and give it a try. I don't think they were 100% confident the problem is fixed, but will take it day by day. Hopefully that was all it was is a bad connection. If anyone has anymore thoughts or ideas, please post them. Thanks
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
8
39
Illinois
Nov 29, 2005
#9
  • Nov 29, 2005
  • #9
LOOKS LIKE I SPOKE TOO SOON. ITS DOING IT STILL. BE RUNNING ALONG IN TOWN AND IT DROPS TO 500 RPMS, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, AND WANTS TO DIE. I CAN GET IT TO RESET BY RESTARTING THE CAR, BUT THAT AIN'T NO FIX. GOING BACK TO SHOP WEDNESDAY MORNING.
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
8
39
Illinois
Nov 30, 2005
#10
  • Nov 30, 2005
  • #10
Got the car back, Shop told me that they believe one of the coil packs is causing the ICM to go bad. So.... I'm ordering both coil packs and ICM from O'Reilly's here in town and putting them on Friday. Besides disconnecting the battery is there anything else I should know or do when changing the coil packs? Keeping the plug wires straight would be a start of course. Haven't got the bill from the shop yet, but just in parts its going to be around $350 w/tax.crapola
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
8
39
Illinois
Dec 1, 2005
#11
  • Dec 1, 2005
  • #11
Changed the coil packs and icm. Took it for test drive. No problems at this time. The tach was more stable especially at idle. $337 in parts including some dielectric grease. I'm going to take the old coil packs to Autozone tomorrow and have them check them as kind of a little mental assurance. Thanks all for your help. I remember TMX posting about the coil pack making his icm go bad. Man, great to have lovers of the 2.3 to turn to with questions.
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
8
39
Illinois
Dec 2, 2005
#12
  • Dec 2, 2005
  • #12
O'Reilly's tested the ICM and said it was good. Autozone used a digital VOM to check Coil packs and said they were good. Well lets see, car wanted to die before I changed these parts. After changing the parts, car runs fine now. So much for the "tests" on these parts. crapola These components are failing under real conditions, but not the table tests. Parts are now flying to the trash can

Performance has also improved now. Wish I could wash it now, but its below freezing and my hose is all iced up now.
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
8
39
Illinois
Nov 20, 2008
#13
  • Nov 20, 2008
  • #13
Out of the blue the CEL came on last night. I stopped for gas, restarted it and it was clear. Pulled a 223 code. reset computer so I could see any new codes that popped up later. Guess I'm just going to have to wait and see what it does next. I have replaced icm and both coil packs in the past. And later had to change one of them out after that.

I am either getting bad coil packs for O'Reilly's or there is something causing them to go bad. Anyone have any suggestions what might be happening?

Thanks in advance.
 
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