Is it possible to remove oil pan w/o pulling motor

I have never done it on a fox, but I am sure there are some similarities. I didn't have to mess with the engine at all. I had to drop all my steering linkages, starter, and the crossmember. Then it was just a matter of time to get the oil pan off.

from what i heard you can unbolt engine from mounts and lift slightly just enough to clear. but other and that NO

In order to do it in the car, you'll have to get a engine brace to hold it in place from up above, then you have to remove the K-frame, steering rack, and linkages, control arms, dissasseble brakes, bearings, and ball joints..........basically everything below the engine. I decided to pull the whole motor, and start my restoration, and building early

Duro

Oh man sorry for giving you false hope then. Looks like there is more to it on the 5.0's than the older models.

Been there, done that - You can do it in the car, but it is hard to do. It is easier to pull the engine if you intend on doing any serious work on the engine.

Disconnect the battery at the battery ground terminal, remove the fan and fan shroud. Both motor mounts will need to have the large nuts that secure them to the frame removed. The trans mount will also have to be loosened, and it is a good idea to remove the drive shaft.

I also had to disconnect the cat pipes at the headers to get the engine high enough to remove the oil pan. Be prepared to have to drop the steering rack and disconnect the steering shaft. Jack up the engine with a wood block under the oil pan and watch for things that bind or hoses/electrical wiring that may need to be disconnected. I put a couple of wood blocks between the headers and the frame to support the engine. You will likely need to jack up the rear of the transmission as well to get the required clearance.

Scrape the pan mating surfaces clean as possible - old gasket stuck to the surfaces are a source of leaks.

Get a high volume/heavy duty pump, and a replacement HD pump shaft. FMS makes one, and ARP does too. When you install the pump, the funny looking washer thingy goes on the part of the shaft that fits into the hex socket in the distributor shaft. It keeps the shaft in place when you remove the distributor, which you will have to do to prime the pump. Forget to put it on, and the pump shaft can come loose and fall down in the bottom of the oil pan.

There is a one piece oil pan gasket which will help re-assembly if you can find it. If you can't get this gasket, use weather strip adhesive to secure the cork gasket to the pan rails and the rubber strips to the bearing caps. Read the instructions on the adhesive carefully to make sure the gaskets are permanently stuck in place and won't move when you slide the pan in place. Use lots of blue silicone sealer on top of the front and rear rubber seals where they mate with the pan.

Fill with oil, replace the filter. Reconnect the battery, switch the ignition on to enable the gages, but DON'T crank the car. Remove the distributor and use a 1/4" hex socket to turn the pump counter clock wise (same direction as distributor rotation) until you see oil pressure (an external gage is a great help long about now). And keep turning for about 30 sec after you see the pressure come up. A reversible drill is the best tool to use to turn the 1/4" socket. The pressure should come up to about 50-80psi with cold oil. Once you see good pressure, check for obvious leaks, and then and only then, lower everything back into place and bolt down the mounts and anything else you had to take loose.

Re-install the distributor and set the timing with the engine running using timing light (don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT plug and reconnect it when finished) 12-14 degrees BDC is good. Start up and check for leaks, let it warm up and look again for leaks. It took me 2 days plus, but I am old and slow, maybe your granny is faster.

Don't worry about it, pulling the engine is easier than you think.

Yea...... right...........

I was told that you could, However when I tore into the project its was not possible without removing the K member. i pulled the motor the rest of the way and it was much easier.

Just pull the motor, its really not that hard. me and 2 friends had my motor out in about 3 and a half hours. Would u rather be working on ur back for a few hours or working on an engine outside the car. I know I liked it when I had my engine on a stand, and when the engine is out you can replace anything that might need to be replaced, clutch, t.o.b., rear main seal, etc., and you can clean all the grease and junk from your engine bay and engine too.

some places rent hoists. I have rented a few in my time.