Is my LCA bolt seized

crazyone64 · Sep 28, 2019

Hi, how can I ensure I'm taking weight off the LCA so i can remove the bolt?

I've read the threads and videos but i can't seem to get the LCA bolt to come out. The nut came out fine.
I can see the bolt spin on both ends. It feels like their is too much weight on it or its seized on the inner sleeve

No space for a hammer with the brakes in the way and i can't wedge anything under the bolt head.
I've tried an impact gun and pushing but it doesn't budge

I've got the jack stands under the frame rail supporting the car and tried many different height positions with the jack under the LCA - trying to take the weight off it.

2003 mach1
Thanks!

stormsedge · Sep 29, 2019

I assume you plan to change your LCAs or bushings...I'll go with that assumption. I am not sure from your description what you have done so far in this process, so I'll tell you how I did mine (as near as I can remember).
Car safely on jackstands.
Remove rear exhaust/tailpipes.
Remove the sway bar.
Place jack under center section of rear end, get control of it because you are going to remove the springs in a minute...raise the rear end a just a little then unbolt the shocks at the bottom, pull off and let hang...now VERY slowly lower your jack until the springs can be removed...note, it is helpful to have one or two additional small jack stands at this point to rest the rear end upon so you can use your jack elsewhere.
With the shocks and springs removed, the rear suspension is unloaded, so you only have to deal with the weight of the rear end itsself.
Do the LCAs one side at a time to help maintain control of the rear end.
With one side of the rear end supported by an extra jackstand, use your jack on the side you are working on to find the sweet spot where the LCA bolt will come out. Note that there may be some fore/aft twist or right/left movement to contend with while doing this.
Change the LCA...once secure to the chassis and rear end, support that side with a jackstand and move to the other side.
Reassemble the rest in reverse order.

Hope this helps. Btw, when I did it, I did uppers as well (exciting stuff). In the end, I used four large jackstands, two small jackstands, floor jack, a hydraulic tube jack, an assortment of pry bars, and at least one ratchet cargo strap. Completely doable...take your time...be cognizant of the weight you are dealing with and be extremely careful unloading/positioning/loading the coil springs. Cheers!

stormsedge · Sep 29, 2019

I reread your post. For clarity, if you have unloaded the suspension/rear end as described above...place your jack under the rear axle tube as close to the LCA you wish to remove as possible (while supporting the other end)...by NOT placing your jack under the LCA and instead under the axle tube, you allow freedom of movement for the LCA to remove the bolt. Hope this helps.

crazyone64 · Sep 29, 2019

stormsedge said:
I reread your post. For clarity, if you have unloaded the suspension/rear end as described above...place your jack under the rear axle tube as close to the LCA you wish to remove as possible (while supporting the other end)...by NOT placing your jack under the LCA and instead under the axle tube, you allow freedom of movement for the LCA to remove the bolt. Hope this helps.

Yes, I followed the same steps minus the exhaust removal. I undid the shocks and got the spring out, but did not try placing the stand on the axle tube. Does the height of the jack stand on the axle tube matter? Or just aim for straight

crazyone64 · Sep 29, 2019

crazyone64 said:
Yes, I followed the same steps minus the exhaust removal. I undid the shocks and got the spring out, but did not try placing the stand on the axle tube. Does the height of the jack stand on the axle tube matter? Or just aim for straight

Did your bolt come out easily?

stormsedge · Sep 29, 2019

Height of the stand probably less than more...only using it to get the rear end weight off of the LCA(s). Floor jack or pump jack on the end of the axle tube you are working to allow positioning of that end. (If the jacks are under the LCA, the rear end weight remains on the LCA.). I don't remember my bolts being particularly hard to get out, but they could have been. You may want to try a long pry bar against the threaded end (with nut to protect threads) and some hard point on the chassis to get it started, if the jack positioning doesn't pay off immediately. I'm heading out to church...good luck.

stormsedge · Sep 29, 2019

Btw, if both shocks/springs are not out...that might help ease the situation.

crazyone64 · Sep 29, 2019

I appreciate your time, i only touched the sping and 2 shocks on the side i am working on. Should I have done the same on the other side before trying to remove the LCA bolt?

Thanks!

stormsedge · Sep 29, 2019

crazyone64 said:
I appreciate your time, i only touched the sping and 2 shocks on the side i am working on. Should I have done the same on the other side before trying to remove the LCA bolt?

Thanks!

Not necessarily, but I think keeping the spring and shock in place on one side---the rear axle remains loaded and makes moving the other end more difficult to manipulate/align for bolt removal/install. I undid both sides of mine.

crazyone64 · Sep 29, 2019

stormsedge said:
Not necessarily, but I think keeping the spring and shock in place on one side---the rear axle remains loaded and makes moving the other end more difficult to manipulate/align for bolt removal/install. I undid both sides of mine.

Could you help me picture what will happen to the rear diff once i take off the last suspension bolt from the other side. How far would it fire back and how difficult to put back in place. This tension might be whats holding it in so tight.

I can see the inner sleeve turn with the bolt so i'm starting to think it's seized.
I'll proceed to the upper bolt to see if it is seized like the other, cutting the upper one will be difficult

stormsedge · Sep 30, 2019

Bottom line: it will move enough to make it difficult to get the alignment for the bolts.
Removing the other shock and spring should not affect you that much...increases your ability to move up and down without the spring tension. However, when you remove the bolt(s) from the LCA(s) the rear end's wonky weight comes in to play...it can be a bear to get the bolt holes aligned---do one control arm at a time if your situation allows. I used my two smaller jack stands, a hydraulic pump jack, my floor jack, and one or two cargo ratchet straps to try to keep/get the alignment for the LCA bolts. It took some time, was irritating and I found a couple of times that where I thought I was applying pressure to get the alignment was actually making it worse. Take your time, be careful. Btw, if you are replacing any of the control arm bolts, make sure they are the right shank size...One of the items I purchased came with new bolts, but the shank diameter was too small and would have resulted in too much clearance between the bushings/bolt and the torque boxes/bolt. I reused my old ones.

crazyone64 · Sep 30, 2019

stormsedge said:
Bottom line: it will move enough to make it difficult to get the alignment for the bolts.
Removing the other shock and spring should not affect you that much...increases your ability to move up and down without the spring tension. However, when you remove the bolt(s) from the LCA(s) the rear end's wonky weight comes in to play...it can be a bear to get the bolt holes aligned---do one control arm at a time if your situation allows. I used my two smaller jack stands, a hydraulic pump jack, my floor jack, and one or two cargo ratchet straps to try to keep/get the alignment for the LCA bolts. It took some time, was irritating and I found a couple of times that where I thought I was applying pressure to get the alignment was actually making it worse. Take your time, be careful. Btw, if you are replacing any of the control arm bolts, make sure they are the right shank size...One of the items I purchased came with new bolts, but the shank diameter was too small and would have resulted in too much clearance between the bushings/bolt and the torque boxes/bolt. I reused my old ones.

The plan was to undo the top bolt to make sure it wasn't seized as well. Then I'd cut the other bolt.
I was able to get the nut off and force the bolt out but it hits the exhaust. It was horrible to try and line up just 1 bolt hole trying to put it back in

Exhaust removal.. How difficult was that?
I'm starting to think I should just take it in,

stormsedge · Oct 1, 2019

Yes, LCA bolt line up is a bear. If your exhaust is the original, it will be really tough as well. Mine is an aftermarket cat back that I carefully put together knowing I'd be taking it on and off (I removed the original with my recip/sawzall). Originals are put together to ensure no leaks - often crushing pipes together with the clamps, making it a tough go to separate, especially when you add years of road crud and rust.
In any event, to remove the exhaust, you'll want to separate it at the flanges btwn catalytic converters and mufflers for starters...that gives you the play space to try and separate the other pieces. Liquid wrench or similar your friend here...let it soak in. You might get lucky and find the pieces come apart as the clamps are removed...or be well into the land of BFH (big fat hammer) and chisel (if you get an exhaust/muffler chisel, know that they cut the metal back and pretty much make the piece unusable for reinstall). Alternatively, instead of taking the exhaust system completely apart, you might find the room to work if you separate the flanges btwn cat/muff and drop the system off of the rubber mounts over the axle and at the pipe tips...unfortunately, that adds the exhaust system to the jungle gym of stuff you have to work around.

crazyone64 · Oct 2, 2019

I have aftermarket exhaust, i'm going to try undoing the hangers that are supporting the exhaust. It's located pretty close to the LCA
That might give me some wiggle room to get the bolt out.. i hope.
I did call my mechanic who told me he sold his business so taking that as a sign to try again.

crazyone64 · Oct 7, 2019

I was able to slide the exhaust off the hangers and remove the upper bolts. That one lower bolt was seized so she got cut.
I notice though, the stabilizer bar appears to be too wide to fit on the LCA bracket, or requires the stabilizer bar to be compressed to fit.
Might need to bolt one end on the inside of the bracket, and the other on the outside of the bracket.
Did you come across this yourself?

Almost done.. stabilizer bar + final torque with load on rear diff.

stormsedge · Oct 7, 2019

Mine is on the inside on both sides...remember it being a tight fit.

crazyone64 · Oct 7, 2019

stormsedge said:
Mine is on the inside on both sides...remember it being a tight fit.

I checked with the manufacturer, they said if it doesnt fit inside inside, then do one inside one outside.
Looks like thats my test tonight.

Any chance you can remember how you were able to 'compress' the rear stabilizer bar enough to get it inbetween?
Did you have to reverse the clips on the stabilizer bar?

stormsedge · Oct 7, 2019

Aha! The "clips" question reminded me I have an aftermarket sway bar on mine (as well as aftermarket LCAs). I didn't use the clips, opting for bolts/locknuts.

Is my LCA bolt seized

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