Is the tranny and rear giving up on me?

When you get on it the rpms climb but you barley move is a good way to tell it's going/slipping.

Possibly; I would do a fluid swap and see what comes out.

I mighta' missed something. WHere is the point of engagement for your clutch? It sounds like it's through the floorboard.

If this is true and it's hard to get into EVERY gear, that suggests that it's possibly the aforementioned cable OR the POS plastic quadrant/pawl stripping.

If you pull up on the clutch pedal, does the pawl ratchet?

Good luck.

Guero said:

wtf did you just say?????? lol. Were the clutch starts to grab is really high

Click to expand...

Nevermind what I said - my idea is not valid if your clutch engages up high (requiring you to hardly push the pedal down).

"When you get on it the rpms climb but you barley move is a good way to tell it's going/slipping."

OMG couldnt have put better myself. Thats funny.
I suck working on cars but I've done a cable swap a few times on my 95. Its really not that bad at all. I put my seat all the way back and as flat as possible. Then I put my head where my feet go-got under the dash and hooked everything up. Once you get under there and see where/how the cable works you will get it- its that straight forward.
The pedal assembly is the hardest part, after that you feed the cable through the firewall hook it up to the bracket by your header snake it past your oil filter then hook it up to your clutch fork.

I would suggest adjusting from your clutch fork first, then taking up any remaining slack from your firewall adjuster while you fine tune where you want your clutch to engage.

Note: I lost a bolt on the clutch cable where it's retained behind the clutch fork. You need two bolts there and if you dont have them, the one bolt will roll back and eventually off of the cable's end.

So yeah, if I could do it you could too. Just be patient. After you do it once, the next time you have to do it will be a breeze.
-fawcett