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is this right?

  • Thread starter Thread starter carbed87
  • Start date Start date Aug 27, 2005

carbed87

Member
Jun 5, 2005
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Aug 27, 2005
#1
  • Aug 27, 2005
  • #1
alright, this is AS FAR AS I KNOW how you adjust valves. fill me in on anything i'm missing and/or doing wrong.


1. with valve covers off, and both intake plenumns off, i start with the number 1 cylinder.

2. starting by turning the crank until the intake valve JUST starts to open, i adjust the exhaust side, by tightening down the rocker, until i see the "plunger" on the lifter depress just a sack hair (about 20 thousands of an inch).

3. rotate crank until the EXHAUST valve just begins to open, and do the exact same thing.

4. and do so to the rest of the cylinders.

5. go through all rockers and tourque them to about 18lbs.

the part i dont get, is shimming them,
why do i need to, what does that mean about my pushrod legnth?

if i need to shim my rockers with more than two shims, does that mean my pushrod is too long or short?

the heads i have are: cast iron gt-40's with pedistul mount rockers.


PLEASE: fill me in on anything that i'm not doing right, ANY help is GREATLY appriciated. thanks


im getting by these heads
 

RIO5.0

15 Year Member
Feb 16, 2001
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Aug 27, 2005
#2
  • Aug 27, 2005
  • #2
1-5 is how I do mine...For step 2...Did you prime the lifters by turning the motor over to prime them??? if not them the plunger will be down to me...I just watch/feel for the PR to move then stop...
Anyway...with your set-up, especially running an E cam/FRPP RRs, the FRPP shim kit should allow you to nail em if needed....unless you milled the heads alot I would think your ok...Ford doesn't make anything other than one lenght of pushrods so I think the shim kit is there fix...

doing one up and having it come into TQ at like 1/8" turn from 0 lash would say shim it....use the smaller shim...readjust that same valve and see where the TQ has moved to....is it like a 1/4" turn to come into TQ?...if so then that would be incorrect too...remove and run the thicker shim...it should be 1/2-3/4 turn to come into TQ..
Cam used , milling, headgasket can all contribute to the PR lenght changing from the stock lenght...
I swapped in a Steeda 19 and had my heads milled...I run 6.300 long PRs and had to shim them .012 or so to get it right....6.290 was the optimum number for me..when I assembled mine I had 0 lash and could run a .025 shim under the valve...I did a W.T.F.... :damnit:...
Shimming shortens the PR lenght so to say....its kinda wacky...I had to play with mine some to figure out W.T.F. was going on...
Good luck...
 
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