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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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IS this too much money?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 65fastbackresto
  • Start date Start date Jan 4, 2008

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
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Jan 4, 2008
#1
  • Jan 4, 2008
  • #1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ME:B:FSEL:US:1123&viewitem=&item=110210547938

Ya cant build it for that much, I do know that.
 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
946
0
17
Danb., CT
Jan 4, 2008
#2
  • Jan 4, 2008
  • #2
Looks nice and probabaly a good price except for:

The few underside photos show some kind of filler at the rocker rails probably hiding rust. If they are hiding rust there, there may be a cowl rust problem as well. No carpet lifted to show floor boards; no shots inside of trunk at inside of rear quarters. For this price a close inspection is required!

Also, the way the seats are secured that tells me the seat pans have been removed (this is structure for the car and is probaly no longer there) big problem.

Now I think about it, the price might be a little high.
 

coolblue65

Founding Member
Jul 26, 1999
1,224
2
39
Algonquin, IL
Jan 4, 2008
#3
  • Jan 4, 2008
  • #3
Really it depends on what you start with, but you could build that for 34k IMO.

I am not saying its not nice looking, but there really isn't anything fancy or high end about it, and it looks a bit pieced together as well (look at the wiring in the trunk), not to mention it seems to have a stock 5.0 driveline.
 

jcode68

Active Member
Jul 15, 2003
892
1
29
Massachussetts
Jan 4, 2008
#4
  • Jan 4, 2008
  • #4
The reserve is probably very close to the buy it now price of $34,500. Not sure that is such a good deal, although the car is done nicely for a driver.
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
1,229
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Jan 4, 2008
#5
  • Jan 4, 2008
  • #5
I got myself in too deep on the car I have.

I`ve got a little over 30k in a car that worth about 20 to 25k. When I did the 6cyl to V-8 conversion it cost about 3 times what I thought it would up front (cause I used all new parts).

I saw this one and thought it was pretty good deal, but maybe it aint.
 
1

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
2,801
3
49
San Diego
Jan 4, 2008
#6
  • Jan 4, 2008
  • #6
coolblue65 said:
Really it depends on what you start with, but you could build that for 34k IMO.

I am not saying its not nice looking, but there really isn't anything fancy or high end about it, and it looks a bit pieced together as well (look at the wiring in the trunk), not to mention it seems to have a stock 5.0 driveline.
Click to expand...
And the battery sitting there. On the gas tank ? Wondering how that thing got secured.
 
B

bnickel

Founding Member
Aug 21, 2002
5,640
3
77
lubbock, texas
Jan 4, 2008
#7
  • Jan 4, 2008
  • #7
why does it have a horn in the trunk? does it look like it's connected to the fuel cutoff swicth to anyone else? maybe it's just me.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Jan 4, 2008
#8
  • Jan 4, 2008
  • #8
For someone that can't work on a car and make modifications, something like this isn't a bad deal at all. Think about all the work we put into our cars. If we had to pay someone else to do the work we do, could we afford to own a classic car ? For me, not a chance.

Is all the work done on that car up to the standards of the people on this board ? Not all of it, but I'm sure the major stuff is done in at least a passable fashion.

Would it be a good idea for any of us to buy something like that ? No way. A LARGE part of the fun with these cars, for me at least, is working on them. Why the hell would you want a car that is already basically done ? Where is the challenge in that ?

Also, if I was sinking that much money into a car, I'd definately go out and inspect it personally.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Jan 4, 2008
#9
  • Jan 4, 2008
  • #9
I have seen WAY worse for the same price or more.
 
P

palerider94

Member
Feb 21, 2006
573
1
19
Jan 4, 2008
#10
  • Jan 4, 2008
  • #10
Rusty hit it right on the head. For someone that does not have the skill or time that is what you'd pay for a quality driver.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Jan 4, 2008
#11
  • Jan 4, 2008
  • #11
palerider94 said:
Rusty hit it right on the head. For someone that does not have the skill or time that is what you'd pay for a quality driver.
Click to expand...

For everyone else, it's an $18,000-24,000 car.

The crush bent exhaust and slapper traction bars are a nice touch. I'll agree, the speaker wiring was poorly done as well. Oh well, I'm not buying it.
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
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Jan 5, 2008
#12
  • Jan 5, 2008
  • #12
I think I`ll just keep my car

It has been fun working on it, and by this fall I`ll have turned every screw and turned every bolt on it, so I`m getting very familiar with it.

And, its lots of fun to work on.

Thanks guys, I`m glad I asked yalls advice.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
6
0
south louisiana
Jan 5, 2008
#13
  • Jan 5, 2008
  • #13
65ShelbyClone said:
For everyone else, it's an $18,000-24,000 car.

The crush bent exhaust and slapper traction bars are a nice touch. I'll agree, the speaker wiring was poorly done as well. Oh well, I'm not buying it.
Click to expand...

There's nothing wrong with the exhaust. Try finding a shop that does mandrel bent pipe in 90% of rest of the country. As for the difference between mandrel bends and crush, you'd have to dyno both to see a difference anyway. And I have slapper bars on my Comet. They work perfectly..
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
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109
LA, CA
Jan 5, 2008
#14
  • Jan 5, 2008
  • #14
D. I'd say who cares about the slappers as well. There is a major difference between crush bent and mandril and you can feel it simply by driving the car.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
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119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Jan 5, 2008
#15
  • Jan 5, 2008
  • #15
This is just my point of view and not Gospel......

I know there's nothing wrong with the exhaust, but IMO at least they could have put a mandrel bent system on a $35,000 car that isn't perfect to begin with. I also know that slappers work just fine, but IMO they look like a lazy add-on under that fastback. Under riders would have helped the "Shelby restomod" image a lot.

The car is overpriced by a large margin and not really unique save for being a straight-bodied fastback. In my opinion that warrants being critical about the other areas that they obviously cut corners.

Besides, you know what they say about opinions.....
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
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south louisiana
Jan 5, 2008
#16
  • Jan 5, 2008
  • #16
I'd be more concerned about those seat bolts protruding thru the floors and the bondo-like undercoating hiding what looks like some floor cancer. I can't tell what brand traction bars those are, but you ever priced Lakewoods ? Mine cost me $150, ten years ago, they're hardly cheap items. They're heavy steel too you could run em over with an M1 Abrams tank and not scratch em. The exhaust job under that car looks like first rate work. So it's not "mandrel bent". That doesn't mean it's substandard.
 

CraigMBA

New Member
Mar 24, 2007
783
1
0
Orange, CA
Jan 5, 2008
#17
  • Jan 5, 2008
  • #17
Rusty67 said:
D. I'd say who cares about the slappers as well. There is a major difference between crush bent and mandril and you can feel it simply by driving the car.
Click to expand...

It's funny the butt dyno can tell you things are there that neither the real dyno or the stopwatch can find. Funny how that works out.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
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0
south louisiana
Jan 5, 2008
#18
  • Jan 5, 2008
  • #18
A lot of what's perceived as an improvement in performance is in reality, related to how much money was spent in the process. And in exhaust mods, the sound that comes out the pipes. I just installed two 18" "Turbo Tubes" in the 77 Comet today. Looking thru them, it's obvious there's some restriction over the straight 2-1/2" pipes they replaced (a no muffler Summit Brand "X" pipe kit) but the sound they make, makes it seem there's some improvement in the bottom end torque. Before, I had to slightly powerbrake it to light em up. Now, just a light touch of the gas, gets the rearend sideways. I don't see crush bends as being any real restriction as long as the bends aren't too long and tight. If you think about it, the majority of the exhaust gets pulled outward anyway in the bend due to centrifugal force, the dimple in the bend just helps it along.
 
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